Solenoids Pack

I actually have a question about the super secret drive thing. I noticed that when I pulled the neutral shift switch off (doing the solenoid replacement) that it's adjustable, as in the bolt holes on the switch are slotted. There is no way I'll ever be able to set it back like it was. I can barely see it in there. Will the car adjust to it when I put it back in, or will I be fiddling with it for the next 6 months?
 
I actually have a question about the super secret drive thing. I noticed that when I pulled the neutral shift switch off (doing the solenoid replacement) that it's adjustable, as in the bolt holes on the switch are slotted. There is no way I'll ever be able to set it back like it was. I can barely see it in there. Will the car adjust to it when I put it back in, or will I be fiddling with it for the next 6 months?

Talking about the DTR? There's an alignment tool for that.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x71030.htm~gen~ref.htm
 
I recently replaced mine but it didn't resolve my issues so I assume my original solenoid packs were actually ok. You're welcome to have it if you pay for shipping assuming you're doing the work yourself then you'll just be out your time unless you have to change all the oil which would add cost to this test. I would ship from Buffalo (zip 14303) next time I'm there (in a couple weeks).

do you still have the part can you let me know pm me
 
Telco,

Get one of those shakable paint markers with the plunger type tip, (in white). Dab it heavily around the bolts, and let the paint dry. You will then have 2 black circles where the bolts were. Now you have index marks.
 
I lucked out, there was enough of an imprint that I was able to locate the correct spot. I know about the paint trick, but didn't think about it until after I loosened it. I can be absent minded like that at times. Thanks though.

I've gotten the job completed now, aside from patching the hole in the transmission tunnel I cut in to get at that stupid bolted on wiring harness. Yet another engineering failure on this car, I'd REALLY like to shake a few of those engineers by the throat. What they should have done was put a fixed wiring harness off the solenoid pack sized so the harness plug would fit through the hole. Had they done this, it would have been simple enough to unplug, drop the solenoid then slip the wiring harness through the hole. To access the bolt I used a hole saw to cut two 1 inch holes in the trans tunnel, the trimmed the middle out. I have a piece of stainless steel sheet metal and some body filler to seal the holes over. I screwed around trying to get that bolt off for a couple of days because I can't get my hands up in there close enough to manipulate the wrench. It took 10 minutes to cut the hole, then 2 minutes to remove the plug. An hour later the job was done including putting 5 quarts of fluid back in through the port using a pump. Messy, very messy, but done.

Discovered something else strange, the floor pan has slats cut into it with foam filler plugging the holes. Never saw anything like this on a car before. It's all factory looking too. Anyone know what the purpose of these holes would be? They are too large and too well plugged for drain holes.
 
I don't recall seeing that from the underside of the vehicle. Could the LS have a dual layer floor pan... and the foam is for sound absorbtion/insulation???
 
Dunno on the floor, but I know the trans tunnel is one layer. It's carpet, one layer of steel, then a second layer of aluminum heat shield with some sort of aluminum material kinda like Christmas tree icicles between the heat shield and floor pan.
 
I just used a 10mm (or maybe 8mm I don't remember now what it was) stubby ratchet wrench on the harness bolt. Took like 5 minutes and it was out.
 
what do you mean data? The issue I'm having is when I throwing it into reverse the jumps really hard.

When shifting into reverse... is there a delay before it engages,,, or does it just slam in??? If the latter, there is another option. The shift cable could be worn/stretched and have some slop,,, and/or the neutral switch, (DTR), could be worn.

It is possible that the computer thinks the vehicle is engaged in gear, (according to neutral switch),,, before it actually is... so the computer bumps up the idle before reverse is actually engaged.

A cable or neutral switch adjustment, (or neutral swich replacement), may fix the problem. Adjustment can be tricky though. A little too much one way or the other will play OTHER mind games with the computer,,, which will cause other tranny symptoms... and possibly more.
 
Glad y'all were able to, but I couldn't get my big hands up in there to get the bolt out. And it's a 10MM.
 

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