son of a bitch!!! 00ls8

If it was intended to be used for jump starting don't you think it would be a little easier to get to? Like on top of the strut support under the hood, not hidden behind a wheel well liner?

Its just there to route power from the battery cable to wherever it needs to go under the hood. Could you use it to jump start? Sure, but why? Its easy enough to get to the battery.
 
I think its really good idea for a number of reasons but if something would happen with the splash guard could it send a short, like by getting wet or something.


Im also just paranoid of the fact they put a fuel filter under one also. That just is strange to me.


I had a instance way back when my battery died. I pulled in to the spot backwards and was not getting close enough at all. Had to push the damn thing up a small incline.
 
97stscaddy said:
If it was intended to be used for jump starting don't you think it would be a little easier to get to? Like on top of the strut support under the hood, not hidden behind a wheel well liner?

Its just there to route power from the battery cable to wherever it needs to go under the hood. Could you use it to jump start? Sure, but why? Its easy enough to get to the battery.
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From talking with a few GM engineers and techs its not necessarily designed for starting the vehicle (my 94 impala clone had an aux post) more for when a car is wadded up in an accident front and rear, its designed so that the stealership/salvage/authorities have an easy way(s) to be able to power up the computer.

s.
 
swdobbs said:
From talking with a few GM engineers and techs its not necessarily designed for starting the vehicle (my 94 impala clone had an aux post) more for when a car is wadded up in an accident front and rear, its designed so that the stealership/salvage/authorities have an easy way(s) to be able to power up the computer.

s.
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I wish it had a quick remove cover over the jump point. Something like many diesel rigs have. Just pop off the cover and charge the battery.:)
 
swdobbs said:
From talking with a few GM engineers and techs its not necessarily designed for starting the vehicle (my 94 impala clone had an aux post) more for when a car is wadded up in an accident front and rear, its designed so that the stealership/salvage/authorities have an easy way(s) to be able to power up the computer.

s.
Click to expand...

That's my point, that it is/was not intended to be used to jump start the car.
 
Alright, so after about a week, i get the time to actually try it. i wasnt able to remove the tire, but i got to the jump point. connected the jumper cables. turned the key. NOTHING. it clicked, but that was it. that means i need to replace my alternator correct? i hope so cause if its something else, ima be pissed.

Anyway, my friend told me a few days ago that my oil dipstick was dry. but i thought he was messing with me. i checked it today, and its dry. nothing there. i never got an oil light. but, what problems could this cause?? could this have been the problem all along? maybe if the alternator got soaked with oil, this might have caused it to take a dump on me??

any help??
 
ummm... no oil? Might want to check and make sure the engine didn't seize. No oil on the dipstick doesn't mean your engine was completely dry, but if you never check it....

Not all cars have a low oil light. It's normally something you should check every time you fill up your gas tank.

I know you don't want to hear it, but that's the worst case (and kind of likely) scenario.
 
Speaking of stupid engineering, my wife's Intrepid has the battery located under the air intake, complete pain in the a$$. Cant even get to the battery without removing the airbox and intake tubing. If i remember correctly i also had to unbolt the washer reservoir to get the battery out when i replaced it. The only way to jump it is using the supplied jump point on the strut tower.
 
Fla02LS said:
Speaking of stupid engineering, my wife's Intrepid has the battery located under the air intake, complete pain in the a$$. Cant even get to the battery without removing the airbox and intake tubing. If i remember correctly i also had to unbolt the washer reservoir to get the battery out when i replaced it. The only way to jump it is using the supplied jump point on the strut tower.
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I had an 1999 Intrepid ES 3.5, my original OEM battery was still good after six years when I traded it for the LS, battery located low and out of the main engine heat seem to work well. The jump points had easy access more than the LS in the trunk spare wheel well. How many easy access jump point do you need? Yes it would take a little time to change out battery, but again I did not have to do that even after six years.
 
gcwimmer said:
I had an 1999 Intrepid ES 3.5, my original OEM battery was still good after six years when I traded it for the LS, battery located low and out of the main engine heat seem to work well. The jump points had easy access more than the LS in the trunk spare wheel well. How many easy access jump point do you need? Yes it would take a little time to change out battery, but again I did not have to do that even after six years.
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Our Intrepid is a 2001 ES, i just had to replace the battery this year with over 100k on it, so yes it seems Dodge got something right, just expelled a few four letter words while replacing. I'm actually pretty impressed that the Intrepid is still running strong, havent had any serious issues. The leather is still great with no cracks or anything, nothing better than a paid car providing reliable transportation.
 
Fla02LS said:
Our Intrepid is a 2001 ES, i just had to replace the battery this year with over 100k on it, so yes it seems Dodge got something right, just expelled a few four letter words while replacing. I'm actually pretty impressed that the Intrepid is still running strong, havent had any serious issues. The leather is still great with no cracks or anything, nothing better than a paid car providing reliable transportation.
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I had just timed out on my warranty when I had to have the valve springs replaced at 32K to the tune of $1500 and I swear I replaced every sensor on that car. Replaced under warranty front driver power window twice and the front pas singer window once. Driver leather seat was cracking the dash had cracks, the Intrepid had only 48K after six years when I traded it in. With that front over hang I scraped all the time going in and out of driveways, went thru front brakes at 30K and went thru 3 sets of good quality tiers in 48K.

That car wanted to run 85 mph on Inter State with ease, a real cruiser, but would wallow like a boat.
 
pektel said:
ummm... no oil? Might want to check and make sure the engine didn't seize. No oil on the dipstick doesn't mean your engine was completely dry, but if you never check it....

Not all cars have a low oil light. It's normally something you should check every time you fill up your gas tank.

I know you don't want to hear it, but that's the worst case (and kind of likely) scenario.
Click to expand...


Pektel, if this was the case, what would be the solution to my problem?
 
You probably don't want to hear this, but the solution is a different engine.

Of course, you could always tear it down, and see if it can be repaired, but labor ain't cheap. It'd be less work to just change the engine out.
 
Hello El Peter,

This is really a long shot, but oh well. One time my car had this issue where the starter would click in strong, but the engine wasn't grabbing. What I did was put the car in neutral and moved it back some. Started right up. Maybe your flywheel may need a visit to the dentist, who knows. But at this point, if you haven't moved it try it. Got nothing to lose. And I can really sympathize with your dilemma. Right now my car has two messed up window regulators, and messed up driver door handle that just broke off, I got the coil issues ( possible tranny if not coils ), I got a clogged catalytic converter aswell, need to replace the ball joint on passenger side, rear bearings need attention. I'm like... what da... 2000 LS V8 w/ 140K. I do realize that nothing lasts forever, but oh well. On the plus side, it's never wasted any oil. Woohoo!!! *L* I've never had to put a quart on it in between oil changes.

With my luck it will probably start today! *LOL*
 
Ooops, didn't read the part about the dry dipstick. I think that's beyond my simple recommendation. Ouch! You win bro!!
 
For the record, my 06 Sport has a disconnected battery right now and the key won't open the trunk. So obviously there is more than a mechanical lock in there. It's electronic and the key won't open my trunk. Unless my car is just different than everyone else's...
 
Ghaleon64 said:
For the record, my 06 Sport has a disconnected battery right now and the key won't open the trunk. So obviously there is more than a mechanical lock in there. It's electronic and the key won't open my trunk. Unless my car is just different than everyone else's...
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No. You must have a problem with the lock. It's completely mechanical. No electrical power required. This is true for all years of the LS, including my 06 sport.
 
elpeter. Most auto parts store can check your battery & alternator if you remove them. I would check all electrical connections and replace battery cables if required. I would use a VOM to check all wiring, terminals & connections. Cleaning or replacing connectors has worked for me a number of times. Do all this carefully and methodically to eleiminate any of these points. Low oil should have given at least a low oil pressure indication on the dash. We are suppose to look @ our guages to ensure all is well while driving, not just the TAc or speedometer! My brain dead wife does that! Idiot lights are a last resort. Why are they called that? We all been there live learn go on! Fill oil before trying to start! Good luck, keep us posted!
 
LOL i dont think ELPETER cares anymore.... +2 on the broken lock... if you can get inside the cabin. a screw driver will open the rear sets for access to the trunk
 
G-RELL said:
LOL i dont think ELPETER cares anymore.... +2 on the broken lock... if you can get inside the cabin. a screw driver will open the rear sets for access to the trunk
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Yea.... He hasn't been here in almost 3 years! He probably found out he ran the oil dry, seized the engine and sold the car because it was a piece of crap for running dry.
 
Check fuses

I didn't read anything about checking fuses. Check all fuses related to the fuel pump and starter in the trunk. When my Alt died the car went dead. replaced the Alt and recharged the battery it was good to go. 2nd Alt died, with the fuel pump and fuses blown in the trunk. Replaced fuse, fuel pump, Alt. Good to go! Warning to not buy rebuilt ALT. Not worth the time or money, BUY new! Buy new! Buy new! did i say BUY NEW!
 
Id buy a gold plated one if i new it would last longer than some of these "new" ones
 
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