Sound system upgrade dilemma ...

[sacsfin3st]

00 LS

i am in the middle of upgrading the sound system in the LS and I am a bit stuck between either fabricating a new sheet of metal fitting 4 6x9's or running a component setup in the back to go with the one in the front. Fabricating wont be to hard for me as I do metal fabrication for a living. Cutting out the old sheet and welding in the new wouldn't be to much a task. Thoughts?

As a forethought .. My end result will be a very nice SPL system. I am looking at putting in 2 12w7ae-3 jl audio subs with 2 jx1000.1d jl audio mono amp. I will be adding a dual battery setup, I've done a couple in some 89 box chevs I've owned but don't think I'll have the balls to add such setup on the LS.

I've found the Stinger spp1200 dry cell battery and a stinger 200 amp battery relay. Fairly sure ill use these for my setup.

I also was doing a little bit of research and found this high output alternator and wondered if anyone has bought from this place or bought the alternator itself. http://www.powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=8256-220-HD66-1

I'm looking for a sort of 'plug-n-play' option on the alternator. That one seems to be such. Thoughts?

Also any thoughts/opinions on my whole setup plans would be greatly appreciated as well

Thank you fellow LvCers

 

[1LoudLS]

so far, nobody has been able to find a brand of HO alt that has reliably worked.


seems like an aweful lot of full range in the back, that should be for fill in, if it were me, i would spend the most money on the front set of component speakers as that should be where most of your music is heard from. then i would say to go with no more that the set you have up front (if they are a component set where the tweeter can be mounted to the main speaker with a coaxial mounting option would probably be best) and with such a large sub set up, i would keep the rears in the OEM rear door location, so that you can build you box to use all that space where the OEM subs and amp usually take up.

 

[sacsfin3st]

Did 5x7's come from factory in the front and rear doors or is this an addition the previous owner did? Seems my ls has 6 5x7's and 2 what looks like 2.5 components under front dash.

The rear door speakers seem placed in a very muffle prone location. Is it just me?

 

[LS4me]

Did 5x7's come from factory in the front and rear doors or is this an addition the previous owner did? Seems my ls has 6 5x7's and 2 what looks like 2.5 components under front dash.

The rear door speakers seem placed in a very muffle prone location. Is it just me?

Yes, the stock door speakers are 5X7.

 

[1LoudLS]

actually the OEM speaker is a 6x8, but a 5x7 will fit (some will need an adapter, most do not)

The rear door speakers seem placed in a very muffle prone location. Is it just me?

yes, they are in a terrible position for listening if you are in the rear seat, for proper imagining, you don't really want the rear speakers screaming at you. but one solution to this is to leave the rear door speakers unhooked, and rerun new rear speaker wire to the OEM sub location and mount the rear set there, this however will cost you some trunk space for your box, and if your planning on having a pair of 12 W7s and want SPL, your gonna need all the box you can get.

 

[LS4me]

actually the OEM speaker is a 6x8, but a 5x7 will fit (some will need an adapter, most do not)


yes, they are in a terrible position for listening if you are in the rear seat, for proper imagining, you don't really want the rear speakers screaming at you. but one solution to this is to leave the rear door speakers unhooked, and rerun new rear speaker wire to the OEM sub location and mount the rear set there, this however will cost you some trunk space for your box, and if your planning on having a pair of 12 W7s and want SPL, your gonna need all the box you can get.

No, it's a 5X7. Don't go by a tape measure or the outer "diameter". It just so happens that a 5X7 and 6X8 occupy the same physical space.

 

[sacsfin3st]

so far, nobody has been able to find a brand of HO alt that has reliably worked.

I wonder them if just running the normal battery with a higher end dry cell combined with the stinger relay would be enough to keep them both charged enough. I've run similar setups with a HO alternator for hours with no problem and this without the car running. I could hope that without the HO alternator and the car running, it may be suffice. Might go thru an alternator or two faster than the norm. Price you pay I guess. Time to go to some local shops and see if anyone has the smarts otherwise guess I better get used to replacing alternators.

 

[1LoudLS]

No, it's a 5X7. Don't go by a tape measure or the outer "diameter". It just so happens that a 5X7 and 6X8 occupy the same physical space.

no there is a difference between a 5x7 and a 6x8, almost all modern FoMoCo cars and trucks have they own speaker size, its called a 6x8.

go ahead and look up the size from a company that actually make the speakers, or adapters
http://www.metraonline.com/

kinda like these
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...scplp3611704&gclid=CMGh_bPP_bcCFY1DMgodHG0AUw

it has nothing to do with a tape measure, it has to do with what size speaker to buy if you are going to replace them as exactly what he is doing...


there is actually a difference in a 5x7 and a 6x8, there are a few cases were ford decided to use a 5x7, and in those cases a 6x8 just wont fit (like the rear speakers in a mid 90's escort hatch. 5.25" up front and 5x7 in the back).

again most audio companys just make one speaker that can fit both by having a larger flange on the edge of the speaker but just putting a 5x7 or slightly bigger driver in there, that way the speaker will fit into a smaller 5x7 opening in the sheet metal, but have a wide enough lip so that if you putting them into a 6x8 inch opening, there is not a gap around the speaker giving you poor sound quality. i have had people just bring in a actual 5x7 for a ford and the speaker is a tiny bit too small and has about a .25" all the way around the edge of the basket.




if they were the exact same size, why would kenwood go through the trouble of producing two different models of the same line of speaker for each size?

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Speakers/5''_x_7''_Speakers/KFC-C5794PS

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Speakers/6''_x_8''_Speakers/KFC-C6894PS

heres why, because a 6x8 does not equal a 5x7. the cone is different sized, the basket is different sized and there is a small power handeling difference.

 

[Andrizzle]

Why are you running two W7s?

One of those overpriced things will pound enough from a single 1000/1. No need to double.

You will have voltage issues with a single setup, no need to stress further with two. Get a high quality dry cell for your battery replacement and run the single setup. You won't have trunk to run two W7s ported in the LS. Unless you don't need any trunk.

 

[1LoudLS]

if it was me, i would rock one 13" and call it a day as i would be driving and listening to it all the time


but if he is building a system around SPL, why not go for two with twice the power!


i would be a little concerned about getting two to actually fit, doubtful that a box could be built and actually slide into the trunk (normal 12s maybe, but W7s with enough space and strong enough???), would probably have to build it inside the car, which starts another set of problems.

 

[SOCOLDLS00]

Quick question.....why w7s? There's more out there that pounds harder, performs better & can be had for a lot cheaper

 

[1LoudLS]

a lot cheaper I'll give you, but I'd say they may only pound AS hard or perform AS good. its rare to find one that could be actually beat it.


there is nothing wrong with JL, W7's are beast. yeah they cost a lot but then again there are a lot of cars that cost less than the LS, doesnt mean that I want to buy an accord or an acura either. they will take a beating, are actuate as hell, and are as just as efficient as most high end subs.


honestly, the driver is only part of the equation, the power* and the box are huge factors, when your dealing with true 1kw subs, the box is going to make the biggest difference in which hits harder. you can make a mediocre sub sound great in the right box, but all subs will sound like crap in a poor box.





*OP, i would probably look at getting a different amps if your gonna go with W7s. the JX amps are their value series and you dont want to mix top of the line with bottom of their line, you wouldn't want to buy a GT500 with just a regular old 3 valve 4.6 would you? the biggest reason if that they dont feature the great circuitry that gives you the same power any where from 4 ohm to 1.5 ohm like their better amps. the JX amp will produce well under 1kw above 2 ohms (500w @ 4), and good power is not where you want to save money.

 

[Dino'sLSdeuce]

...I don't know how ya'll can do it. I guess it's me who has the problem when it comes to working on my Audio.
...I can never just find a level of Audio Customization to where I'm content and satisfied and not wanting more.
...I'm always wanting more, whether it's necessary or not. All I know is, I want it. My current RF PP4-T problems.

My suggestion is to all would be audio upgraders (who don't have the same problem), spend the money wisely on
good reliable brand name components and equipment the first time, so your not like me trying a 4th or 5th time
with upgrading components (even through I bought some-what top-shelf products, I still want better), Good Luck.

My first sound off competition...circa 1993 (talk about old as dirt and thousands and thousands of dollars spent),
Another word of advice...invest in some type of sound dampening. If I can hear sheetmetal before actual audio ??
...then there's your 1st problem.

 

[1LoudLS]

i kinda used to have that problem, but now i just decide on what i want to get, usually split it up into a couple of stages, get it and call it a day. as long as i get something good enough the first time, i usually dont feel the need to go bigger. i kinda faded away from competition because that always just comes down to who throws the most money down. and i no longer have the need to always have the loudest system. it just needs to be loud enough to drowned out wind noise from having the windows down while driving. it needs to have clean sound, accurate mids and highs, and deep devastating lows, then I'm happy. too many other things to get enjoyment out of to keep redoing the audio system over and over.

some times I'm glad the LS doesn't have a real good motor with an aftermarket, that adds up quick, and you never can really go fast enough! lol maybe its time for a blown stang...




... or a diesel truck, and make some real power!





then again, I could always use another 1911...

 

[SOCOLDLS00]

i kinda used to have that problem, but now i just decide on what i want to get, usually split it up into a couple of stages, get it and call it a day. as long as i get something good enough the first time, i usually dont feel the need to go bigger. i kinda faded away from competition because that always just comes down to who throws the most money down. and i no longer have the need to always have the loudest system. it just needs to be loud enough to drowned out wind noise from having the windows down while driving. it needs to have clean sound, accurate mids and highs, and deep devastating lows, then I'm happy. too many other things to get enjoyment out of to keep redoing the audio system over and over.

some times I'm glad the LS doesn't have a real good motor with an aftermarket, that adds up quick, and you never can really go fast enough! lol maybe its time for a blown stang...




... or a diesel truck, and make some real power!





then again, I could always use another 1911...

+1 bigger is always better but I know how quick the money can add up im the type of person that likes to try everything button when I look back on it there's way more important things I could've spent that money on like the 1911 I've been wanting since I first joined the military lol. But OP I'm not trying to be a troll but i feel like JL is just overrated & overpriced, just paying for the name in my opinion. The W7s are bad ass subs don't get me wrong but for the price you can have wayyyyyy nicer hand built subs. Look up subs from Digital Designs, Sundown audio, DC audio, FI audio. I didn't name any specifically because all brands have many that would make w7s look like $###.

 

[RigsLS]

no there is a difference between a 5x7 and a 6x8, almost all modern FoMoCo cars and trucks have they own speaker size, its called a 6x8.

go ahead and look up the size from a company that actually make the speakers, or adapters
http://www.metraonline.com/

kinda like these
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...scplp3611704&gclid=CMGh_bPP_bcCFY1DMgodHG0AUw

it has nothing to do with a tape measure, it has to do with what size speaker to buy if you are going to replace them as exactly what he is doing...


there is actually a difference in a 5x7 and a 6x8, there are a few cases were ford decided to use a 5x7, and in those cases a 6x8 just wont fit (like the rear speakers in a mid 90's escort hatch. 5.25" up front and 5x7 in the back).

again most audio companys just make one speaker that can fit both by having a larger flange on the edge of the speaker but just putting a 5x7 or slightly bigger driver in there, that way the speaker will fit into a smaller 5x7 opening in the sheet metal, but have a wide enough lip so that if you putting them into a 6x8 inch opening, there is not a gap around the speaker giving you poor sound quality. i have had people just bring in a actual 5x7 for a ford and the speaker is a tiny bit too small and has about a .25" all the way around the edge of the basket.




if they were the exact same size, why would kenwood go through the trouble of producing two different models of the same line of speaker for each size?

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Speakers/5''_x_7''_Speakers/KFC-C5794PS

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Car_Entertainment/Speakers/6''_x_8''_Speakers/KFC-C6894PS

heres why, because a 6x8 does not equal a 5x7. the cone is different sized, the basket is different sized and there is a small power handeling difference.

So for the LS, pretty safe bet to just get 6X8 all around. These will fit in the front doors without extra brackets or work ?

 

[1LoudLS]

yes any 6x8 speaker will fit in fit in perfectly and if you buy a metra 72-5600 speaker harness that just plugs onto the speaker (although i do recommend taking four extra minutes to solder them onto the speaker) it really is as simple as un-bolting the old speakers, unpluging it and plugging the new speakers in, and bolting the new speaker in.


all 6x8/5x7s will too


a lot of 5x7s will too, however some will need adapters.

 

[pektel]

+1 bigger is always better but I know how quick the money can add up im the type of person that likes to try everything button when I look back on it there's way more important things I could've spent that money on like the 1911 I've been wanting since I first joined the military lol. But OP I'm not trying to be a troll but i feel like JL is just overrated & overpriced, just paying for the name in my opinion. The W7s are bad ass subs don't get me wrong but for the price you can have wayyyyyy nicer hand built subs. Look up subs from Digital Designs, Sundown audio, DC audio, FI audio. I didn't name any specifically because all brands have many that would make w7s look like $###.

I have a DC lvl 4 12 in the trunk of my LS, in a 2.25 ft^3 box (gross volume IIRC), tuned to around 34 hz. With a Directed Audio D2400. 1200rms @ 1 ohm.

I'd need to upgrade components if I wanted more bass. Plenty loud enough for me. Most of the time.

 

[coleio1]

i myself have a 12 w7 in a ported box in my ls. they are very expensive but i got mine for $200 and so it was a good deal. i picked up another w7 for $80 and put a new foam surround on it thinking i would put 2 of them in my car but i just wouldnt have the trunk space and didnt want the strain on the electrical system. besides 1 is good enough for me but it could def be louder. i say if ur going to run the w7 just use 1 that way u have trunk space. but there are many brands that are better for less.

 

[RigsLS]

I'm not a real big Audio guy, have only done a couple of simple setups, nothing big ... but I really do need to replace the factory LS speakers, the rears are crap!

thanks for the 6X8 confirmation, I'll try something.

oh and my fricken CD's are stuck again in this latest used stock replacement, done with that too.

 

[1LoudLS]

I'm not a real big Audio guy, have only done a couple of simple setups, nothing big ... but I really do need to replace the factory LS speakers, the rears are crap!

thanks for the 6X8 confirmation, I'll try something.

oh and my fricken CD's are stuck again in this latest used stock replacement, done with that too.

Whats a CD? lol

 

[RigsLS]

CDs are similar to savings accounts in that they are insured and thus virtually riskfree; they are "money in the bank".
CDs are insured by the Federal Deposit ... ‎How CDs work

 

[Dino'sLSdeuce]

ditto...w/ my 2 cents.

i myself have a 12 w7 in a ported box in my ls. they are very expensive but i got mine for $200 and so it was a good deal. i picked up another w7 for $80 and put a new foam surround on it thinking i would put 2 of them in my car but i just wouldnt have the trunk space and didnt want the strain on the electrical system. besides 1 is good enough for me but it could def be louder. i say if ur going to run the w7 just use 1 that way u have trunk space. but there are many brands that are better for less.

...Same here I would love to put (2) Subs. Currently have (1) 15" RE AUDIO SXX D2 in a ported 3.3cu.ft @ 33 hz.
I can hear the difference in the BASS note outputs after the first few notes hit; the first few sound very nice, but... diminishes.

I have already replaced the Alternator and upgraded to a 900 CCA w/ increased amperage start Battery w/o the Big 3.
(IMO) without updated information on a more easily obtainable, cheaper, reliable, and a more constant but definitive output
(for regarding the LS) in a HO alternator (I for now) do not know how or why thicker wires would "greatly" benefit any audio
and/or a vehicle's electrical system "unless" the Alternator output was also increased "at the gate".

 

[Andrizzle]

Adding larger and additional wires gives less resistance and thus a more even (heavier) flow of power through the circuit.

But I agree, unless you have an HO for the LS (which is almost impossible it seems) there is no benefit for spending a lot of money expanding the big 3.

 

[sacsfin3st]

My friend was telling me about a '1 wire alternator' which I guess bypasses the ecu/PCM?


My guess would be someone has already tried such or knows why such wouldn't work?

My uneducated guess would be 'if' there was a compatible HO 1 wire alternator, I would probably get a check charging system message? In turn causing a CEL light? Would this actually harm anything?

And I'm not set on JL's .. In fact I might talk with ToiletDick and his Skar Audio deals.

Thanks again