Sport 16mm front knuckle availability?

[Broseph]

Title pretty much says it. Looking for Motorcraft 16mm knuckle for driver side. I put Moogs in several years back, passenger side started to fail just after a year and made the wise move and replaced the knuckle with OEM.

Now the driver side is starting to make some sound and of course I start looking and not seeing any. By the looks of it for $500 a piece for 14mm, stock is probably gone or very hard to find. If anyone has ideas, even if it’s across the Pond (EU) I’m open to potential places.

Not really interested in Mevotech or other brands, but even if I was, I see mostly 14mm for those as well.

 

[JustALs]

Searched for some and wasn't able to find a motorcraft 16mm for the driver side but found one 16mm for the passenger on carid.com...

If you want the 16mm get a 16mm ball joint and change it?
Im not sure if the base size of the 14mm and 16mm ball joints are the same but I wouldn't know...

I did a bit of searching and it seems that the late 2002-2006 LS sport has the 16mm and found this motorcraft but it does not say if its a 14 or 16 6W4Z-3K186-AA - Genuine Ford Base No. #3K185 Front Wheel Knuckle

Nothing in moog just found the motorcraft 14mms and the
16mm mevotechs on here;

2005 LINCOLN LS 3.9L V8 Knuckle | Shop Now at RockAuto

Steering Parts and More for Your 2005 LINCOLN LS at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

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[JustALs]

Also found this on ebay it states 2003-2006 16mm left and right side..
Might be a gamble as in terms of ball joint durability but might be worth a shot.?

Seller; [MacAutoParts]
Price; $178.53 + $17.99 Shipping.

(2) Steering Knuckle for Ball Joints for Lincoln LS 03-06 With Warranty | eBay

1xPart# CF6W4Z3K186AA REF# MS40503 16MM Drivers Side Front Steering Knuckle with ball joint. 1xPart# CF6W4Z3K185AA REF# MS40504 16MM Passengers Side Front Steering Knuckle with ball joint. After Production Date 03/11/2002 to 2006 Lincoln LS.

www.ebay.com

 

[Broseph]

Thanks for digging. It’s such a gamble and I’ve seen the results of failed ball joints to know it’s something worth the cost of doing right.

Had my first born in ‘18 right as the right side had a noticeable pop and grind after a year of the Moog replacement ball joint. The $400 Motorcraft knuckle was worth it (should’ve just bought the LH when I did the other)

We just welcomed our second addition last week. If it were just me and not my two little ones, this would be an easier decision.

If I’m out of options, I might go with the MAC.

The question is, are they truly “new”? I just don’t see a one off outfit manufacturing aluminum knuckles for an older car. The profit loss would be astronomical.

I would figure it’s a rebuilt OEM with ball joint or a rebranded Mevotech all made by the same manufacturer.

 

[Broseph]

Searched for some and wasn't able to find a motorcraft 16mm for the driver side but found one 16mm for the passenger on carid.com...

If you want the 16mm get a 16mm ball joint and change it?
Im not sure if the base size of the 14mm and 16mm ball joints are the same but I wouldn't know...

I did a bit of searching and it seems that the late 2002-2006 LS sport has the 16mm and found this motorcraft but it does not say if its a 14 or 16 6W4Z-3K186-AA - Genuine Ford Base No. #3K185 Front Wheel Knuckle

Nothing in moog just found the motorcraft 14mms and the
16mm mevotechs on here;

2005 LINCOLN LS 3.9L V8 Knuckle | Shop Now at RockAuto

Steering Parts and More for Your 2005 LINCOLN LS at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

This has been discussed before on changing joints. I did the originals with a friend on a harbor freight 15 ton press and some custom axle nuts welded to square tubing to get things to line up. PITA and the results…well we know where that ended up.

The “S” shape of the knuckle makes pressing a real pain and tbh, aluminum is not made for this.

Maybe a dedicated shop with tons of fittings I could do since it looks like a Motorcraft 16mm ball joint is available on Rockauto. Still prefer OEM new, even if $700 to get it.

 

[ajv8]

tbh, aluminum is not made for this.

yes it is it’s not rocket science, i’ve done dozens on different brands. the LS is just really tight with an upside down ball joint which is why people break out the torch and it stress cracks.

 

[Broseph]

yes it is it’s not rocket science, i’ve done dozens on different brands. the LS is just really tight with an upside down ball joint which is why people break out the torch and it stress cracks.

Not to be confrontational, but why aren’t there reman knuckles in circulation then? Unless the available units are and just being stated as new.

I also don’t see anything in the service manual about ball joint removal.

I agree it’s not rocket science, but there is a difference to sending someone else on their merry way that will probably sell their car or have an accident in 3-4 years, vs personally driving a vehicle with your family in it for 80,000 miles.

 

[ajv8]

Not to be confrontational, but why aren’t there reman knuckles in circulation then? Unless the available units are and just being stated as new.

I also don’t see anything in the service manual about ball joint removal.

I agree it’s not rocket science, but there is a difference to sending someone else on their merry way that will probably sell their car or have an accident in 3-4 years, vs personally driving a vehicle with your family in it for 80,000 miles.

the knuckle is sold as a complete upright because they felt like it. ford and jaguar received the parts as an assembly and didn’t feel the need to carry the ball joint.

lemforder, who makes all the suspension pieces, used to sell the 14mm ball joints separately a long time ago and one place still has old stock. ZF/lem still sells the gen 2 jag ones and many other ball joints for cars with aluminum knuckles.

berkshire also remans the first gen knuckle with aftermarket 14mm bj. with the right tools this is not a problem.

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[theophile]

Does anyone know if it's easier to remove/replace the ball joint in (say) the Mevotech knuckle than it is with the OEM knuckle? I'm tempted to buy the Mevotech knuckle and a better quality ball joint in the hopes that the swap will be easier than with the OEM knuckle.

 

[ajv8]

Does anyone know if it's easier to remove/replace the ball joint in (say) the Mevotech knuckle than it is with the OEM knuckle? I'm tempted to buy the Mevotech knuckle and a better quality ball joint in the hopes that the swap will be easier than with the OEM knuckle.

check the casting. if it has identical letters markings and the mevotech may be a reman.

try to look for ball joints made in turkey. the delphi would be the first one to try

 

[04_Sport_LS]

which is why people break out the torch and it stress cracks.

I beg to differ. Now if you had added... "because they don't know what they are doing" ... then I agree.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Does anyone know if it's easier to remove/replace the ball joint in (say) the Mevotech knuckle than it is with the OEM knuckle?

Then you are potentially taking 2 chances on cracking the knuckle at the ball joint... if you don't get the press properly aligned when removing/installing the ball joint.

Not saying it can't be done... just be very cautious and picky.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

And I doubt Mevotech could legally sell a used knuckle with a new ball joint... as "new".

Remanufactured/rebuilt maybe... but not new.

 

[theophile]

@04_Sport_LS , what are your thoughts about this method?



I went to the yard and got two donor knuckles to try on. I don't have a torch (only a heat gun) to try the method you've described. This looks pretty straightforward.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Yeah... there's nothing wrong with that method. You just need to make sure the ball joint is perfectly square in the hole before drawing it in.

The main reason I used heat... was because my ball joint press kit didn't have the right accesories to do it like the video shows.

 

[theophile]

Good deal. I'm going to give it a try with the Harbor Freight ball joint press kit. I took some measurements with a caliper. It looks like the outer diameter of the ball joint is a hair under 2 1/4" so the receiving cup in the HFT kit with the 2 1/4" inner diameter should be perfect.

 

[ajv8]

Good deal. I'm going to give it a try with the Harbor Freight ball joint press kit. I took some measurements with a caliper. It looks like the outer diameter of the ball joint is a hair under 2 1/4" so the receiving cup in the HFT kit with the 2 1/4" inner diameter should be perfect.

a master kit will have them. mine was like 600 bucks but i bet you can get a bunch of cups on ebay for way less

buy a used otc press instead of the hf, they will last you a lifetime

 

[04_Sport_LS]

I'm going to give it a try with the Harbor Freight ball joint press kit.

That's the one I have... and it wont work... unless they have changed/updated the kit.

 

[theophile]

That's the one I have... and it wont work... unless they have changed/updated the kit.

This is the one I'm referring to: Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicles

Is that the one you have? If so, do you recall what about it doesn't work?

Here's the contents list:

#4 looks like it should work for pressing out. If I measured correctly, it should be just large enough for the ball joint to push out into it. For installation, the #8 cylinder + the #6 adapter should be deep enough to accept the new ball joint + stud.

To make sure, I'm going to 3D print a tube with an ID of 2.25" and an OD of 2.5" just to check fitment.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Mine doesn't have numbers 8,9,and 10.

It's been a few years since I changed the ball joints... but IIRC... I couldn't get clearance on the knuckle to push out the ball joint.

I would have been pushing (and pulling at an angle... and didn't want to crack the knuckle... or woller the hole.

Whatever kit is in that Youtube video seems pretty good. Don't know who makes it... or what it costs... but I'd buy it if I had to do it again. (and I've replaced alot of ball joints over the years).

 

[theophile]

Thanks, that's a good note. My mockup tube is printing. Just eyeballing it, it's possible that the 1/8" thickness of the tube might be too thick to clear the "back" of the ball joint. There's not much room back there. I'll report back after the print finishes.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Just eyeballing it, it's possible that the 1/8" thickness of the tube might be too thick to clear the "back" of the ball joint.

That sounds about right.

 

[JustALs]

This might sound stupid or pointless lol but here it is...

The top base of ball joint for the Ls has no snap ring, so it only goes in and out the same way.

I was thinking about finding a balljoint with the same dimentions as stock but with a Snap-ring.
So it could be pressed in from the bottom and pressed out from the bottom, but this might not work because the lower ball joint on the ls faces down so the Snap-ring would probably shear off from the weight of the car. So it was probably made without a snapring for a reason lol

Yeah im an idiot lmao but anyways..

With the right kit and a new steering knuckle it could be done fairly easy infact, but on a used OEM things would be corroded and seized up together

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Well... you're thinking... and it's not as crazy as you might think.

Personally... I would stay with the OEM design... even if it is a PITA.

The older Ford Escape ball joints have no snap ring (Moog anyway). It's just friction fit.

I use red loctite on those.

 

[theophile]

I think that #4 cup from the HFT kit should work perfectly. It fits around the ball joint and sits flush against the aluminum knuckle. In fact, it settles in there so perfectly it feels like the knuckle was designed specifically for a removal tool of this size and shape.