G
GrayGhost1
Guest
When you do the conversion to SST you only lose the D4 in automatic mode. You still have D5. Also, you have all gears available in SST.oldhead said:
SST Install instructions
- Thread starter JaredLS
- Start date
oldhead
Active LVC Member
Do you mean you lost the ablilty to select D4 in auto mode?
G
GrayGhost1
Guest
Yes. You will lose D4 in auto mode but not in SST mode. It has been rumored that Lincoln used a different PCM code for the sport version LS's that had the SST. This allowed the D4 gear in auto mode for those cars. Don't even bother taking it to the dealer to get them to program the PCM for this as that they don't know how to do it. Also, the cost to re-program the PCM isn't worth it. I NEVER drive in D4 and if I did I would switch it to SST if I had to. Who drives in D4 all the time?oldhead said:
Roadwarrior50
Active LVC Member
If you lose D4 what happens when you shift into it? Does it just keep it in D5? I am planning on this swap and never use d4, im just curious what happens when the shifter is in that spot.
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Roadwarrior50 said:
it no big deal - it shows up as (and is) D3.
StinkinLinkinLS01
Well-Known LVC Member
So I have and 2001 LS and I'm wondering, is the swap really worth it?
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
you'll get every answer from 'never use it' to 'only ever use it'.
Me - I like having the option when I want to use it. for $250 it's one of the cheaper mods.
Me - I like having the option when I want to use it. for $250 it's one of the cheaper mods.
ok so maybe this question has already been answered, but if i dont care about losing d4 do i have to have to take it to the dealership when i am done? or will the sst mode work immediatly afterthe swap?
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
I never re-programmed anyrthing - works fine.
2001LS8Sport
Dedicated LVC Member
I wonder why you lose direct?? That seems very strange to me.
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
simply - you loose D4 because the that point in the shifter on the SST model means D4, but the non-SST PCM reads it as the old shifter D3. When you reflash the PCM with the 'sport' option SST enabled - it changes the connection point for the PCM.
2001LS8Sport
Dedicated LVC Member
Ahhh....Thanks Quik! Makes sense.
sometimes i want to use it but idk i dont wanna like be shiifting into wrongs gears and mess shyt up. i just stay in d5 lol...idk any pointers on how i should use the SST mode??...(dont red line I KNO!!)
:L
:LS117MC
LVC Member
I recently did this upgrade on my '02 and though the write-up with pictures was amazing, I did a few steps differently. Try them at your own risk. Also, use common sense. Before you start make sure you give the car plenty of time to cool so the engine/tranny/exhaust won't be hot.
tools : I used a metric socket (8mm I think, can't remember) instead of a 5/16 standard socket.
REMOVAL
step 5 : Instead of using a tongue depressor, just push in on the ash tray with one finger and it will give you plenty of room around it to slide the tip of your finger behind the bezel to pull it off.
step 7: I have an auxillary 12v output under my rear heat register. You just squeeze in on one side to release the clip and unplug the wiring connector.
step 10 : There were 5 more torx head screws holding the 2 halves of the console to a metal brace at the rear. I took those out and and was then able to remove the driver's side of the console completely and move the passenger's side up and out of the way. The 2 halves go together a certain way at that metal bracket at the rear so be careful not to break them while pulling them apart.
step 12: I took the shifter knob off first - pull down on the black and chrome thing under the knob to uncover the 2 screws holding the knob in place, remove the screws, pull up on the knob (you have to pull hard and twisting helped to loosen it). Then I twisted the light sockets out of the white plastic piece and moved them and the wires out of the way (they route through a 'hook' on the front of the shifter so be careful and remove them from it, don't just pull). Then I pulled the bezel completely off so it was out of the way.
step 13 : I did after steps 14 and 15. With the bezel and side of the console removed, it was very easy to get to the wiring connector and interlock cable. Having them held in place made it much easier to disconnect them.
step 15 : Putting the shifter back into park (its not connected to the transmission anyways) made it easier to remove the cable from the pink thing.
INSTALL
step 14 : I did this step first. It was easier to get my hand in there to unlock the adjuster without the bottom of the shifter in the way.
step 2 : Since the 2 halves of the console were completely out of the way, I didn't have to be able to rotate the shifter assembly and was able to go ahead and put the 4 bolts in and loosely tighten them.
steps 3 and 4 : They were easier for me with the shifter already held loosely in place by the 4 bolts.
steps 8 - 12 : I did after step 20. This way I could check for problems before I put the whole console back together.
steps 15 - 17 : I did completely different. You can grab the adjuster at the end of the shift cable under the car and push/pull the cable through the gears. Towards the front of the car is '1' (where it is now) and towards the rear of the car is 'P'. You can feel where each gear is as you move the cable. Count them as you move it. Your transmission is still in 1 from earlier, one position back is 2, the next is old 3 new D4, the next is old D5/D4 new D5/SST mode, next is N, next is R, next is P. It should stop there (check to make sure). Pull it back up through R, N, D5/SST, and stop in new D4 (where the shifter should be from step 13). Snap the adjuster onto the shift lever and lock in place. Get in the car and move the shifter through each position and make sure it goes into each one easily. If not, pop the adjuster back off the shift lever under the car, unlock it, and repeat the process of feeling out each gear and make sure this time you're in the same gear as the shifter is in before you snap the adjust back on and lock it.
step 19 : Before starting the car move the shifter through each position and make sure the dash reads the same as the shifter position. You can't shift above 3rd in SST mode without the car running so don't be alarmed. Trying to will only make it go back to 2nd.
step 8 : I had to put those 5 extra torx head screws back into the rear of the console. Make sure you're careful while putting the 2 halves back together, they only go 1 way and you don't want to break off any tabs by forcing it.
The whole thing only took a couple of hours and most of that time was spent stopping to find misplaced tools or take pictures.
tools : I used a metric socket (8mm I think, can't remember) instead of a 5/16 standard socket.
REMOVAL
step 5 : Instead of using a tongue depressor, just push in on the ash tray with one finger and it will give you plenty of room around it to slide the tip of your finger behind the bezel to pull it off.
step 7: I have an auxillary 12v output under my rear heat register. You just squeeze in on one side to release the clip and unplug the wiring connector.
step 10 : There were 5 more torx head screws holding the 2 halves of the console to a metal brace at the rear. I took those out and and was then able to remove the driver's side of the console completely and move the passenger's side up and out of the way. The 2 halves go together a certain way at that metal bracket at the rear so be careful not to break them while pulling them apart.
step 12: I took the shifter knob off first - pull down on the black and chrome thing under the knob to uncover the 2 screws holding the knob in place, remove the screws, pull up on the knob (you have to pull hard and twisting helped to loosen it). Then I twisted the light sockets out of the white plastic piece and moved them and the wires out of the way (they route through a 'hook' on the front of the shifter so be careful and remove them from it, don't just pull). Then I pulled the bezel completely off so it was out of the way.
step 13 : I did after steps 14 and 15. With the bezel and side of the console removed, it was very easy to get to the wiring connector and interlock cable. Having them held in place made it much easier to disconnect them.
step 15 : Putting the shifter back into park (its not connected to the transmission anyways) made it easier to remove the cable from the pink thing.
INSTALL
step 14 : I did this step first. It was easier to get my hand in there to unlock the adjuster without the bottom of the shifter in the way.
step 2 : Since the 2 halves of the console were completely out of the way, I didn't have to be able to rotate the shifter assembly and was able to go ahead and put the 4 bolts in and loosely tighten them.
steps 3 and 4 : They were easier for me with the shifter already held loosely in place by the 4 bolts.
steps 8 - 12 : I did after step 20. This way I could check for problems before I put the whole console back together.
steps 15 - 17 : I did completely different. You can grab the adjuster at the end of the shift cable under the car and push/pull the cable through the gears. Towards the front of the car is '1' (where it is now) and towards the rear of the car is 'P'. You can feel where each gear is as you move the cable. Count them as you move it. Your transmission is still in 1 from earlier, one position back is 2, the next is old 3 new D4, the next is old D5/D4 new D5/SST mode, next is N, next is R, next is P. It should stop there (check to make sure). Pull it back up through R, N, D5/SST, and stop in new D4 (where the shifter should be from step 13). Snap the adjuster onto the shift lever and lock in place. Get in the car and move the shifter through each position and make sure it goes into each one easily. If not, pop the adjuster back off the shift lever under the car, unlock it, and repeat the process of feeling out each gear and make sure this time you're in the same gear as the shifter is in before you snap the adjust back on and lock it.
step 19 : Before starting the car move the shifter through each position and make sure the dash reads the same as the shifter position. You can't shift above 3rd in SST mode without the car running so don't be alarmed. Trying to will only make it go back to 2nd.
step 8 : I had to put those 5 extra torx head screws back into the rear of the console. Make sure you're careful while putting the 2 halves back together, they only go 1 way and you don't want to break off any tabs by forcing it.
The whole thing only took a couple of hours and most of that time was spent stopping to find misplaced tools or take pictures.
Thanks!...
Ever since reading about the performance with the XCal's on here about a month ago, I've actually be wondering about the possibility of SST in my 1st gen, and it kills me that I don't have it.....yet! The g/f's '07 Jetta has the VW equivalent ....and well....b/c she's female...she NEVER uses it!!! ...so this is definitely something on my list to do!
Thanks to whoever started this one!!!!
Ever since reading about the performance with the XCal's on here about a month ago, I've actually be wondering about the possibility of SST in my 1st gen, and it kills me that I don't have it.....yet! The g/f's '07 Jetta has the VW equivalent
....and well....b/c she's female...she NEVER uses it!!! ...so this is definitely something on my list to do! Thanks to whoever started this one!!!!
I just installed today. I am enjoying it so far,
but I did only drive it about 6 miles so far. I got mine off of ebay with a leather shift knob for $30. Next I will be doing the BMW SMG Paddle shift mod. I work at a BMW Dealer so I get a discount.
I just installed today. I am enjoying it so far,
You work at a BMW dealership and bought an LS? Says a lot about the Lincoln, IMHO. You will need a Lincoln dealer to flash your pcm with a "sport" calibration to enable D4.
All the calibration does is enable D4, right? Does it do anything else?
FASTLLS
Dedicated LVC Member
nope.. That's it..
Shouldn't be more than a hours labor.
FASTLLS
Dedicated LVC Member
I got quoted 60
Sst
I just did mine a few days ago. I took one off a 2003. they are inter changeable except the trim, you can just pry it off. I actually just took the shifter apart in the car so I wouldn't have to get under the car. yeah i got the D4 issue but i could always go to the jk yard and get a pcm.
I just did mine a few days ago. I took one off a 2003. they are inter changeable except the trim, you can just pry it off. I actually just took the shifter apart in the car so I wouldn't have to get under the car. yeah i got the D4 issue but i could always go to the jk yard and get a pcm.
FASTLLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Why go through the trouble of switching pcms? it doesn't cost that much for a flash..