Stags on a 05 Lincoln LS

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BigBalla39213

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I decided to bolt them up last night.



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Why did they put spacers on? It is not the correct bolt pattern? Looks good.

Any plans to make it clear without rubbing?

Offset and width of these?
 
20 x10 40ET on the rear.
They told me it was a lip on the hub that the wheels wouldn't clear. They are the right pattern.
 
please tell me that the spacers you/they used have the correct bore size and maintain the hub centric for the new wheels. you know so the the weight of the car/wheel is still being placed on the hub instead of all the weight being moved to just the lugnuts (terrible idea with A: a car this heavy, B: wheels that heavy)





Alax7 said:
Any plans to make it clear without rubbing?
Click to expand...

good luck with a tire that wide and wheels that don't have the correct wheel hub bore...
 
Ouch. To fit 10's you'll need wheels that have like a +50-54 offset. You would rub less if you those have enough meat on the back of them to take off 5mm to take the offset to a +45 and roll your fenders.
 
Alax7 said:
roll you're fenders.
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you can get a pretty good roll on the front fender, but because the way the rear door is about half the wheel well, there just isn't much room you can get from rolling the rears, i'm sure at that point every little bit helps.

they also make little rubber parts that you slide in between the springs, not so much as to lift it but they will limit how much travel the rear has. it does make the ride a little tighter. but it probably would help to keep the rubbing down.
 
lsemex04 said:
Maybe shave the offset 5mm. or stretch tires.
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I have yet to find a shop that will change the offset. Too easy to not get a perfectly straight surface and the procedure may open up a casting void (like what happened to a set of heads he had ported for his LS).

Sorry..... Stretch tires look downright stupid!!
 
http://wheelflip.com/services/

These guys do good work from what I read online. I also took them a 10" wheel I have to shave 5mm off to fit in the ls.

If the wheel can be machine flat and true to begin with, it can be shaved down but you do need the right equipment and have it all aligned. Wheel work is all they do, when others say it can't be done, these guys tackle it, so I'm sure they have the right set up to do the work right.

I was even considering getting some staggered wheels that had the right offset but wrong bolt pattern and just having these guys re-drill them to the right bolt pattern.
 
dont forget his offset isnt even taking into consideration of his spacer he is using, we don't even know how thick that is...


the first thing i would do is send them off to get the center bore enlarged (which that place alex just links happens to offer!) so that you can get rid of that spacer, then decide if you need to change the back spacing. then at least you have the wheel more safely mounted to the car

the real question is how much can you even go back with a 10" tire before you're rubbing on the inside?
 
Alax7 said:
http://wheelflip.com/services/

These guys do good work from what I read online. I also took them a 10" wheel I have to shave 5mm off to fit in the ls.

If the wheel can be machine flat and true to begin with, it can be shaved down but you do need the right equipment and have it all aligned. Wheel work is all they do, when others say it can't be done, these guys tackle it, so I'm sure they have the right set up to do the work right.

I was even considering getting some staggered wheels that had the right offset but wrong bolt pattern and just having these guys re-drill them to the right bolt pattern.
Click to expand...

I would actually be more concerned the process would "discover" a void, flaw or week spot in the casting. It also depends on if the wheel is cast or forged.
 
True, but only one way to find out.
 
I'm having trouble understanding why spacer 3 would be used if the wheel didn't clear, unless the offset is so high along with the wheel width that it his on the suspension components, hence the need for the spacer.

If it was option 1, the need for the hub ring I get, but why the spacer.

Maybe the shop only had the spacer with hub ring so they couldn't give him just the hub rings.
 
the only thing that makes sense to me from what i read, was that the bore on the wheels was too small to fit on to the hub, so they had to use a spacer to kick it out enough for the wheel to be able to mount flat against the hub. by the sounds of it, they are flat spacers and not hub centric/wheel centric adapters, so there is no longer a lip to support the weight.

if this is the case, instead of holding the wheel dead center, it can get off a little and cause a bit of wobble/vibration, this also adds completely different shearing forces to the wheel lugs themselves.
 
option two would be if the wheels bore was larger than the hubs, but option one would have to be used if the wheels bore was smaller than the hubs, and the adappter would have to have some thickness to it to at least get the wheel out past the smaller hub it can't fit over.

option three shouldnt even be an option and is pretty dangerous...
 
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Here's the result!

When I removed the wheels last night I found out that the Shim was used to clear the threads of the Axle Shaft. Now they may fit, but it still will be a close fit. The shim is about a half inch thick.

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