Strut masters Kit in my 94

85cobra

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Cleveland
How's it going.
I got started on my the kit from strut masters and the rear wasn't so bad. Its comfortable to ride in.
I still have to finish fronts tho.
Heres some pix.

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I am getting to the point where either new bags and compressor will be necessary, or a change to steel. The ride height you show has me concerned, since there is no more sensor lowering possible. Do you expect the height to moderate after some time and mileage? What was the kit cost? Good job changing sway bar bushings.
 
New coils always take time to settle in.
 
Sappirefire c'mon strut masters did a great job. I like the glide ride. LoL.
And I did take my Mark8 to the car wash after I was done. To take all that nasty salt off. Ohio sucks for weather. But near future I'm moving to Colorado Springs. Woooo. LoL
Now how can I change the front upper ball joint / A-arm the bolt isn't coming out nor is the strut bolt either.
Is there a trick ?
 
@ OldDavid Thank You sir.
The kit cost $550 wit shipping.
I'm enjoying this. LoL
 
@ OldDavid Thank You sir.
The kit cost $550 wit shipping.
I'm enjoying this. LoL

Strutmasters in general I don't mind, but for that money or close to it you could've had tokicos and lowered springs.
 
Strutmasters in general I don't mind, but for that money or close to it you could've had tokicos and lowered springs.
+1

Strut Master is a cheap brand. They'll got the job done, but there's better out there, especially for what you paid.

Upper ball joint will require the entire Upper Control Arm. Grab a Gear Wrench (19?mm) and remove the nut , left side is under the Master Cylinder and under the Distribution Box, passenger side is under intake tube and next to the AC Drier
 
+1

Strut Master is a cheap brand. They'll got the job done, but there's better out there, especially for what you paid.

Upper ball joint will require the entire Upper Control Arm. Grab a Gear Wrench (19?mm) and remove the nut , left side is under the Master Cylinder and under the Distribution Box, passenger side is under intake tube and next to the AC Drier

Drivers side UCA becomes infinitely simpler if you open up an access hole in the wheel well to stick a wrench/socket for the right nut under the master cylinder.
 
I'm not looking to lower mine. Too too many pot holes out here. My Stang is lowered tho. LoL
This is my everyday rider.
I never heard of any other companies except the real cheapo ones on eBay.

For the UCA im trying to wack the bolt out so I can cont the rest of the job. Going to torch it once I finish up. Yogi bear is intriguing my 4 yr old baby girl. Lmao.

Than You.
 
Drivers side UCA becomes infinitely simpler if you open up an access hole in the wheel well to stick a wrench/socket for the right nut under the master cylinder.

Before you go cutting holes in the frame, unbolt the Master from the Booster, pull it out of the Booster and push it over towards the engine. Don't undo the lines, they'll flex plenty. IMO removing 2 nuts trumps drilling unnecessary holes
 
I watched my buddy replace my drivers side this last fall, all i have to say is that people make it sound harder then it really is. A couple long wrenches, one of them being of the ratcheting type and your done. No need to remove anything for that one "difficult" bolt.
 
Before you go cutting holes in the frame, unbolt the Master from the Booster, pull it out of the Booster and push it over towards the engine. Don't undo the lines, they'll flex plenty. IMO removing 2 nuts trumps drilling unnecessary holes

Somebody already did it before I bought the car. Can't uncut the hole. Just saying it's really easy now. Lol.
 

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