Strut Rod to Frame Bushings Replacement Procedure
- Thread starter soduka
- Start date
chargerxr
Dedicated LVC Member
You can leave the lower ball joint in the spindle. Remove lower air shock bolt and bolt that goes through the subframe, pull out and swing back and you can get the strut rod out of lower control arm.
98lincmk7lsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Because it can never be stressed enough....
Only use OEM bushings for the strut rod at the frame (forward end). Otherwise, you'll be doing this job again soon...
Only use OEM bushings for the strut rod at the frame (forward end). Otherwise, you'll be doing this job again soon...
MN12hybrid
Active LVC Member
Yes!!! I got some lovely ones from Autozone when I had to throw on a replacement lower control arm. The control arm is generic Chinese crap but looks like it will hold up - its been holding up so far. The strut rod bushings lasted me less then 6 months, and that was even with modding the sleeve for proper fit.
I am going to have to rebuild my whole suspension soon - surprisingly my air ride is fine, and the bags dont leak.. its just all the other stuff, LCA's, UCA's, supercoupe poly bushings and endlinks (with sway bar). Ill start with the front since its pretty scary and dont trust my car in its current condition because of it. Ill probably just replace the stupid Autozone LCA with a better one when I replace them all at once. I know the powertrain needs work, but I would rather have something break under the hood while on the freeway than to break another ball joint, or something else suspension related - I should have learned my lesson years before on my Tbird. Both times it happened as I was pulling into a driveway and hitting some speed bumps! Pretty damn lucky with all considered. The rear end needs to be rebuilt, bushings are cracked, etc... but at least the rear end is still solid and not going to break any time soon so I can put that off for another 6 months if I need to because of the cost. I remember building the suspension up on my bird with Mark VIII control arms, SC polygraphite bushings and few new OEM rubber bushings used as well. New shocks (left the springs alone for a later date), tie rod ends, rack bushings and replacement boots. Then installed a KVR Cobra 13" brake kit with drilled anodized rotors, and converted my rear drums to discs from a 96 Sport. I spent just over $2300 including everything. It felt like a new car, but I could have spent half that and done only necessary things and it would have still felt new I guess. It handled like it was on rails, but the real surprising change came from the rear discs.. I never bought a proportion valve but never ended up using it - it ended up being a perfect swap on that car, and combined with the steel lines up front and new rubber lines in the back, my brake pedal got a ton more sensitive and firm and there was less fade. I was surprised because I wasnt expecting any difference with the rear disks over rear drums. The front brake kit with the Hawk pads though, were awesome and REALLY stopped that car nicely - I am probably going to use the same kit for my Mark down the line when I finally start putting money into the performance.
I am going to have to rebuild my whole suspension soon - surprisingly my air ride is fine, and the bags dont leak.. its just all the other stuff, LCA's, UCA's, supercoupe poly bushings and endlinks (with sway bar). Ill start with the front since its pretty scary and dont trust my car in its current condition because of it. Ill probably just replace the stupid Autozone LCA with a better one when I replace them all at once. I know the powertrain needs work, but I would rather have something break under the hood while on the freeway than to break another ball joint, or something else suspension related - I should have learned my lesson years before on my Tbird. Both times it happened as I was pulling into a driveway and hitting some speed bumps! Pretty damn lucky with all considered. The rear end needs to be rebuilt, bushings are cracked, etc... but at least the rear end is still solid and not going to break any time soon so I can put that off for another 6 months if I need to because of the cost. I remember building the suspension up on my bird with Mark VIII control arms, SC polygraphite bushings and few new OEM rubber bushings used as well. New shocks (left the springs alone for a later date), tie rod ends, rack bushings and replacement boots. Then installed a KVR Cobra 13" brake kit with drilled anodized rotors, and converted my rear drums to discs from a 96 Sport. I spent just over $2300 including everything. It felt like a new car, but I could have spent half that and done only necessary things and it would have still felt new I guess. It handled like it was on rails, but the real surprising change came from the rear discs.. I never bought a proportion valve but never ended up using it - it ended up being a perfect swap on that car, and combined with the steel lines up front and new rubber lines in the back, my brake pedal got a ton more sensitive and firm and there was less fade. I was surprised because I wasnt expecting any difference with the rear disks over rear drums. The front brake kit with the Hawk pads though, were awesome and REALLY stopped that car nicely - I am probably going to use the same kit for my Mark down the line when I finally start putting money into the performance.
Holy hell this strut rod to frame bolt is ON THERE. Search has been finicky for me, I remember a thread of someone else having a problem with these bolts. Anyone have those links bookmarked/have ideas? Should I have the car on the ground, up in the air, what?
todd2fst4u
Well-Known LVC Member
There's some good info in this thread
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?88842-SRB-s-Spacer-s-and-LCA-s
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?88842-SRB-s-Spacer-s-and-LCA-s
98lincmk7lsc
Dedicated LVC Member
I have a 30 mm wrench that's about 18 inches long, and I usually put a cheater on that as well, to multiply the torque. Sometimes it's still tough, but that has worked for me every time.
Do you need a set of these?
Do you need a set of these?
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
i wouldn't say oxy-acet is needed, some good ole propane will get you quite a ways usually.
that and some good penetrating oil. I use PB Blaster.
that and some good penetrating oil. I use PB Blaster.
98lincmk7lsc
Dedicated LVC Member
Yikes!
Either this guy >>>>>98lincmk7lsc
or a junkyard in the South United States
or calling Ford dealerships and finding the rare kits they used to make that included sleeves (expect to pay a lot)
or buying aftermarket kits and making due with the sleeve they include.
Marcus
Dedicated LVC Member
There are sleeves sold individually still out there. There are two possible part numbers for each. The ones starting with E9 were for T-birds, the F3 was for Mark VIII's. The only difference between the two is that the T-bird sleeves have a slightly looser fit with each other than the Mark VIII, otherwise they're interchangeable.
Inner: E9SZ-3B282-B or F3LY-3B282-B
Outer: E9SZ-3B282-A or F3LY-3B282-A
I don't remember if they come 2 to a pack or only 1.
Inner: E9SZ-3B282-B or F3LY-3B282-B
Outer: E9SZ-3B282-A or F3LY-3B282-A
I don't remember if they come 2 to a pack or only 1.
Marcus
Dedicated LVC Member
Wow!