MKVIIILSC
LVC Member
My '97 Mk viii LSC is Stuck in Park.
Car starts and runs fine.
Help!
Car starts and runs fine.
Help!
STUCK in Park
- Thread starter MKVIIILSC
- Start date
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
Check brake lights
Cal Mowrer
LVC Member
Had this problem abt 10 yr ago. Poor recollection. Seems I recall SCIL computer related. I will research and post more if I find more info. Counter-intuitive. SCIL stands for Steering Column Illumination and Lighting (I think).
Cal Mowrer
LVC Member
Tail light ballast also failed.
Cal Mowrer
LVC Member
You can disconnect center tail light if that is part of the problem. You will still have tail lights, brake lights, and turn signals via the outer tail lights mounted on car body instead of trunk.
Last edited:
MKVIIILSC
LVC Member
No Brake lights. What's the connection?
MKVIIILSC
LVC Member
So the ballast? what's the connection? Oh yeah where is it?
Cal Mowrer
LVC Member
Connection is in SCIL computer. Ballast is inside large tail light assembly that goes across the trunk lid. Search forums for ballast and SCIL. There was a substitute offered back then. I had no success getting one. Used ones did show up on ebay. Not so much lately.
Do not know if following is still relevant.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?97257-New-Replacement-Ballasts-for-Mark-Viii-Neon
New Replacement Ballasts for Mark Viii Neon
Hi guys and gals.. I have decided to try and fill the shoes of the late glitch. I am now offering for sale the exact same Neon ballast that was once sold by Glitch. I deal with the same manufacturer as he did long ago. I am selling each ballast for $109.99+$6 for shipping. I ship USPS priority and generally ship the same day as payment. Ballasts will get there super fast. Someone has needed to step up and provide the Mark Viii community with the replacement ballasts since Glitch passed and I am going to do just that.
Fastest way you can reach me is by phone... Call or text me at 561-628-7407.
If you are ready to buy and you can send the payment to my PayPal email.. tbird6613@yahoo.com
*********************************************
Below info also copied from these forums. I have it in a word doc. Forum does not accept it as attachment.:
Moisture (Impurities) is the number one reason for the inverter (ballast) to fail. For reliability reasons all moisture must be removed before any inverter is replaced.
Each inverter (ballast) has two circuits, one to start the neon glow and the other to maintain the glow. Because of the internal circuitry, the ballast can not be tested like one would think.
As long as there is power and ground going to the inverter and the neon bulb is not broken (Glass inside the light housing) Then in most cases a new inverter will solves the problem.
Ground Screw on the base plate for the inverter: (Wire Mesh)
This ground screw is for EMI purpose. (Radio interference) and has no affect on neon operation other then shorting the inverter if water is inside the housing.
(It has been found to be most desirable to disconnect and insulate the wire mesh from any metal structure or ground)
There are two fuses in the system, Fuse #31 is for the parking lights and fuse #32 is for the brake lights. On the average, if you are experiencing symptoms similar to item #8 below; check both fuses for condition.
************************************************************************************************
The following questions are asked to help determine your light condition.
1. What area of the country do you live in? (Does it rain often?) See item #2
2. Is there water or moisture inside the light?
(This is a sign to add drain/ vent holes)
3. Does the neon bulb flash at all when brakes are applied?
(This could be a bad connection or a sign of an inverter gone bad)
4. Can you see a glow from the bulb ends when the parking lights or brakes are applied?
(This is a sign of an inverter gone bad)
5. Behind the trunk lid cover is the inverter input connector, (Three wire) Do you have power and ground?
(9.5v min is needed to power the inverter)
6. Does the reflector have what looks like mold or black lines inside?
(This is a sign of moisture; Recomendation: Add drain/vent holes)
7. Do you see any glass inside the light?
(Does the glass look Cylindrical in shape?; if it does you will have to open the housing to replace the bulb)
Testing the bulb: Have a local neon shop hook up one of their inverter while the light is on the bench. Most shops have inverters that put out 2000-5000v with variable current. This device is perfect for testing the bulb. Alternate method: Most neon shop also have a high voltage wand. This wand can be used if the bulb has been removed from the housing. Check with your local neon shop to see of they can help.
8. If your tail light fuses are blowing; Disconnect the inverter connector and replace the fuses. Does the lights now work normaly?
(If yes, This is a sign that your inverter has gone bad)
9. Does your light have issues with cooler temperatures. Or maybe the neon just stops working when the temperature drops.
This is a sign that the inverter (Ballast) has been weakened or damaged.
10. Intermittent light or flickering light: Check the condition of the wires that run past the trunk lid arm. Also check the male side pins at the inverter connector. These pins have been found corroded and needed to be cleaned and re-tined.
The Do List.
11. Perform the following steps:
Disconnect the wire mesh for the base plate
Protect the mesh from coming in contact with any metal structure
Or cut the mesh metal off
Extract the pins from the three wire (ballast) connector
Scotch bright the pins
Re-tin the pins with a light coating of solder
Without the outer plastic connector, plug the male pin into the other connector half.
Does the neon works normally?
If it does, re-assemble the connector
If it does not work, proceed to step #13 below
NOTE: Tarnish is what I have found is building up on the contact surface; preventing electrons from flowing from the female pins to the male pins. This is why I mention re-tinning the male pins.
************************************************************************************************
12. Internal shorts:
This condition is not normally seem unless you seperate the housing to gain access to the bulb ends.
Internal shorts is a tricky one to discribe. So the best way to do this is to show you .
I can not say that all ballasts are damaged by internal shorts. However there are only two ways that damage them.
Shorts and Heat.
************************************************************************************************
13. Think about doing the following steps before replacing another inverter.
Without cutting the housing open; the attached are steps that I am developing in preventing arching from the input (GTO) wires.
Pull the rubber gourmet out
use a ¼ inch cutter; trim into the housing
Pull the excess of the GTO wire out
Put small amount of silicon calking in and around boot
Glue the hole closed
Tape over area to act like a water shield
Using electrical tape; tape a 4X12 inch section of the trunk lid in the area were the GTO wires pass thru the light housing. (from the edges, inward)
Use two additional (6 to 8 inch) sections of GTO Sleeve; cut an 1/4 inch wide 1/2 inch deep notches in one end.
With the notched end first; slide the sleeve over the section of GTO wire that enters the housing. Make sure the GTO sleeve overlaps the rubber grommet area.
Now you’re ready to replace the inverter
************************************************************************************************
I have noted four failure modes for the inverters.
1. Dead inverter, Does nothing
2. Internal short that blows fuses
3. Damaged internal circuit; bulb glows but does not fully light
4. Light housing that shorts the inverter to ground (Moisture inside)
Out of the four modes, #2 is on the rise. Providing there is no condition to see mode #4; A simple inverter replacement will have your neon working again. As for #4; This is why I ask if the neon light can bench check. If too much current drain is noted from inside the housing, a replacement inverter will be damaged. High current can only be fixed if the housing is open up. (Requires cutting)
Do not know if following is still relevant.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?97257-New-Replacement-Ballasts-for-Mark-Viii-Neon
New Replacement Ballasts for Mark Viii Neon
Hi guys and gals.. I have decided to try and fill the shoes of the late glitch. I am now offering for sale the exact same Neon ballast that was once sold by Glitch. I deal with the same manufacturer as he did long ago. I am selling each ballast for $109.99+$6 for shipping. I ship USPS priority and generally ship the same day as payment. Ballasts will get there super fast. Someone has needed to step up and provide the Mark Viii community with the replacement ballasts since Glitch passed and I am going to do just that.
Fastest way you can reach me is by phone... Call or text me at 561-628-7407.
If you are ready to buy and you can send the payment to my PayPal email.. tbird6613@yahoo.com
*********************************************
Below info also copied from these forums. I have it in a word doc. Forum does not accept it as attachment.:
Neon Light General Questions
(1997 and 1998 Generation II tail light assembly)
P/N F7LY 13A565 AAA thru AAF
(1997 and 1998 Generation II tail light assembly)
P/N F7LY 13A565 AAA thru AAF
Moisture (Impurities) is the number one reason for the inverter (ballast) to fail. For reliability reasons all moisture must be removed before any inverter is replaced.
Each inverter (ballast) has two circuits, one to start the neon glow and the other to maintain the glow. Because of the internal circuitry, the ballast can not be tested like one would think.
As long as there is power and ground going to the inverter and the neon bulb is not broken (Glass inside the light housing) Then in most cases a new inverter will solves the problem.
Ground Screw on the base plate for the inverter: (Wire Mesh)
This ground screw is for EMI purpose. (Radio interference) and has no affect on neon operation other then shorting the inverter if water is inside the housing.
(It has been found to be most desirable to disconnect and insulate the wire mesh from any metal structure or ground)
There are two fuses in the system, Fuse #31 is for the parking lights and fuse #32 is for the brake lights. On the average, if you are experiencing symptoms similar to item #8 below; check both fuses for condition.
************************************************************************************************
The following questions are asked to help determine your light condition.
1. What area of the country do you live in? (Does it rain often?) See item #2
2. Is there water or moisture inside the light?
(This is a sign to add drain/ vent holes)
3. Does the neon bulb flash at all when brakes are applied?
(This could be a bad connection or a sign of an inverter gone bad)
4. Can you see a glow from the bulb ends when the parking lights or brakes are applied?
(This is a sign of an inverter gone bad)
5. Behind the trunk lid cover is the inverter input connector, (Three wire) Do you have power and ground?
(9.5v min is needed to power the inverter)
6. Does the reflector have what looks like mold or black lines inside?
(This is a sign of moisture; Recomendation: Add drain/vent holes)
7. Do you see any glass inside the light?
(Does the glass look Cylindrical in shape?; if it does you will have to open the housing to replace the bulb)
Testing the bulb: Have a local neon shop hook up one of their inverter while the light is on the bench. Most shops have inverters that put out 2000-5000v with variable current. This device is perfect for testing the bulb. Alternate method: Most neon shop also have a high voltage wand. This wand can be used if the bulb has been removed from the housing. Check with your local neon shop to see of they can help.
8. If your tail light fuses are blowing; Disconnect the inverter connector and replace the fuses. Does the lights now work normaly?
(If yes, This is a sign that your inverter has gone bad)
9. Does your light have issues with cooler temperatures. Or maybe the neon just stops working when the temperature drops.
This is a sign that the inverter (Ballast) has been weakened or damaged.
10. Intermittent light or flickering light: Check the condition of the wires that run past the trunk lid arm. Also check the male side pins at the inverter connector. These pins have been found corroded and needed to be cleaned and re-tined.
The Do List.
11. Perform the following steps:
Disconnect the wire mesh for the base plate
Protect the mesh from coming in contact with any metal structure
Or cut the mesh metal off
Extract the pins from the three wire (ballast) connector
Scotch bright the pins
Re-tin the pins with a light coating of solder
Without the outer plastic connector, plug the male pin into the other connector half.
Does the neon works normally?
If it does, re-assemble the connector
If it does not work, proceed to step #13 below
NOTE: Tarnish is what I have found is building up on the contact surface; preventing electrons from flowing from the female pins to the male pins. This is why I mention re-tinning the male pins.
************************************************************************************************
12. Internal shorts:
This condition is not normally seem unless you seperate the housing to gain access to the bulb ends.
Internal shorts is a tricky one to discribe. So the best way to do this is to show you .
I can not say that all ballasts are damaged by internal shorts. However there are only two ways that damage them.
Shorts and Heat.
************************************************************************************************
13. Think about doing the following steps before replacing another inverter.
Without cutting the housing open; the attached are steps that I am developing in preventing arching from the input (GTO) wires.
Pull the rubber gourmet out
use a ¼ inch cutter; trim into the housing
Pull the excess of the GTO wire out
Put small amount of silicon calking in and around boot
Glue the hole closed
Tape over area to act like a water shield
Using electrical tape; tape a 4X12 inch section of the trunk lid in the area were the GTO wires pass thru the light housing. (from the edges, inward)
Use two additional (6 to 8 inch) sections of GTO Sleeve; cut an 1/4 inch wide 1/2 inch deep notches in one end.
With the notched end first; slide the sleeve over the section of GTO wire that enters the housing. Make sure the GTO sleeve overlaps the rubber grommet area.
Now you’re ready to replace the inverter
************************************************************************************************
I have noted four failure modes for the inverters.
1. Dead inverter, Does nothing
2. Internal short that blows fuses
3. Damaged internal circuit; bulb glows but does not fully light
4. Light housing that shorts the inverter to ground (Moisture inside)
Out of the four modes, #2 is on the rise. Providing there is no condition to see mode #4; A simple inverter replacement will have your neon working again. As for #4; This is why I ask if the neon light can bench check. If too much current drain is noted from inside the housing, a replacement inverter will be damaged. High current can only be fixed if the housing is open up. (Requires cutting)
Cal Mowrer
LVC Member
If I had to start over, Definitely investigate 12V LED string