Sub and Amp

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busaj

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Looking to put a sub and amp setup, run with the factory Alpine headunit up front in my '02. I'm not looking for crazy booming bass, just some clean, crisp, full frequency response bass, with deep lows and good upper bass.

Looking to save as much space in the trunk as possible, but willing to sacrifice a bit for better sound quality, also not looking to break the bank. Any and all ideas welcome and appreciated.
 
I got 2 12's in a box, and a 12 hundred watt amp, and a capacitor. i am getting solobarics when i get back, if u want i can have pics 4 u.
 
I'm no audio expert, but I'd think a good high quality 10" in a sealed box with a well matched amp would give you exactly what you're looking for. I'm a big JL Audio fan...
 
lincoln00 said:
how much let me know!
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400 plus shipping, the box is heavy the amp and capacitor can be sent regular mail, i am selling cheap because i got them for cheap, its a pyle amp and the speakers i have to get back with u. also after about 1hr of heavy hitting the amp will reduce power for about 10 mins so it wont burn out. thats what the shop told me at least.
 
if you want to save trunk space i would go with either a very good single 10 or 12, sealed for the best sound quality or ported to get a little more bass if you dont mind sacrificing a little sound quality. a ported box will also take up a little more room, but not by much. the biggest deciding factor on what to get would be how much you want to spend. also if you have the factory sub enclosure, take it out, you will be able to get a box that can be a little taller and take up far less floor space.
 
1LoudLS said:
if you want to save trunk space i would go with either a very good single 10 or 12, sealed for the best sound quality or ported to get a little more bass if you dont mind sacrificing a little sound quality. a ported box will also take up a little more room, but not by much. the biggest deciding factor on what to get would be how much you want to spend. also if you have the factory sub enclosure, take it out, you will be able to get a box that can be a little taller and take up far less floor space.
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I agree i had to search for a good 6months before i found a box to fit in my car, also u want to be sure u have a Sub output so u can cut the subs off when u dont want them on. I found out the hard way>
 
as a person in the buisness of retailing car audio i would recomend 2 8 inch jl w3v3 woofers in a sealed box with a jl 500/1v2 amplifier not breakin the b ank and saves u a ton of room. and besides they are super clean
:)
 
A good 12" sub and amp will give you what you need. I bought an MB Quarts amp and sub from Crutchfield three years ago for 349 and it sounds super clean. Not too much but a nice fill to your music. Just my two cents.
 
Eric0508 said:
you'll have to tie it into the headunit or else you wont get the very high bass
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what do you mean tie into the head unit?


question for everybody:

On my audio I have: stock deck and alpine 5x7 in the back.
I tied into the speakers @ the speaker connection and ran wires down to a high- low converter. when i try to run the high bass, it wont work ( i have A side and B side). I put A channel low bass works good, B channel High bass. crackles and sucks. ( on B channel) any way around this? is there a wiring adapter to tie into the factory sub and loop some wires out to my aftermarket sub with the low level input on the amp?

and also, speaker question. Is there any speakers that sound clean to replace the rear stock subs? ( ohms ?) and i believe they are 5x7 ?
 
Single 10' Kicker L7(ported box) with a KX400.1 amp. Would also highly reccomend a capacitor.:D
 
gixxerboi said:
as a person in the buisness of retailing car audio i would recomend 2 8 inch jl w3v3 woofers in a sealed box with a jl 500/1v2 amplifier not breakin the b ank and saves u a ton of room. and besides they are super clean
:)
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With regards to running two 8s, is the space needed for the box smaller than that which is needed for an average 12? What's your experience with the difference between a single 12 and the setup you recommend?

Have to ask you, given that by your sn you're a fellow bike guy. For the hell of it here's a couple of my bikes.

l_78b588a9ed2cec8f1da937034fdeadeb.jpg


l_023058b1648fdbbbb883295b608061d9.jpg


l_6ed09eba735bb3c68a5c1f04b181bd1f.jpg
 
Ive got a single Kicker L5 12" in a ported Kicker box with a 800.1 Pioneer Amp in my mark. Real nice sound. A little pricey, but nice. Its a big box though. A 10" L5 or L7 would server you well. That or a JL audio sub would be my recommendations.

If youre not looking to spend that much you can get pioneer subs for cheap, Ive had a couple of those and they sound good. Blew em out though after several months use.
 
I think some of you guys aren't paying attention to what the OP wants:

busaj said:
I'm not looking for crazy booming bass, just some clean, crisp, full frequency response bass, with deep lows and good upper bass.
Click to expand...

Most novice audio guys know that generally the larger the sub, the less crisp and clean the sound...

busaj said:
Looking to save as much space in the trunk as possible, but willing to sacrifice a bit for better sound quality.
Click to expand...

Two 12"s or a single 15" will take up a HUGE amount of trunk space.




A couple 8"s, single 10" or single 12"... of good quality with a well matched amp will give you exactly what you're looking for. Save your money on the cap... upgrade the "Big 3" wiring and be done with it.
 
I have a single 12" Diamond Audio sub with a box that will take up minimal space that I will let go for $200 plus shipping. Its a sealed box wrapped in black carpet.
 
Well I have some free time at work so I thought I'd enlighten you on somethings that I've learned from my venture of car audio fanatics...

JL SUCKS!! Every JL I heard sounds good at first, if you break them in right, but they tend to heat up ALOT and that sacrifices sound.

Ok now that i got that outta the way, I'd like to say alot of the "mainstream" brands (kicker, rockford fosgate, mtx, etc) are ok but overrated. From what you've said it sounds your more on the audiophile side, meaning you rather have music play the way it was meant to play, by that I mean weather its your right there in the concert, or in the studio. Best bet for SQ is Focal, Morel, or CDT (I heard CDT was good, never personally heard them tho). But since price is an issue to you, its gonna be hard to get the quality you want at a price where quality isn't really incorperated into the design of the sub/speakers.

MB Quartz, Eclipse, Memphis, and Pioneer makes some good subs for a low price.

Pioneer, Kenwood, and Hifonics makes good amps to match most subs.

If I was you, with the aftermarket factory setup, I'd have everything re-done, when I say that, it means pull out the factory sub, replace the head unit (sony has good HU for 100 or a little more, want something that has more options, poineer goes for around 199, the best??? Eclipse MKII for about 400) replace the wiring, add 2 amps (one for the speakers and one for the sub) add the sub of choice with box, and dyno that whole :q:q:q:qin car, it takes the driving noise away from inside the car and prevents any rattling from the exterior of the car.

All in all, if you just add a sub to the system, it'll sound wack in my opinion, but if you replace everything, speakers, HU, sub an amp, run your own wires, i think everytime you drive that car you'll be happy, cuz it sounds the way you want it


Just my thoughts on sound systems, im currently workin on my system and eventually when I start to re-do the system in the car, I'll have pictures of work in progress and finished product.
 
I've personally had good luck with JL... they have a good product for the money as far as I'm concerned. It's pretty apparent to me he's not going to spend the $2000 required to put in a full new system with some sort of sound deaden-er/insulator throughout the whole car. That alone will add up SUPER quick. I did the cab of my truck... a standard cab and it ran me about $300-$400. Used B-Quiet; single layer on doors and rear wall, double on roof and floor, then used their mat on the floor as well. Doing an entire car could easily get up to the $600-$800 range depending how extensive you go. And that really piles on the weight too.

I would have to disagree that it will sound "wack"; it depends on what he ends up running and how he sets it up. For a factory stereo system, the one that came in the LS isn't bad (obviously that isn't saying a whole lot because factory systems have never really been well designed). Anyhow, as long as he keeps the bass at a proportional level and sets the EQ on the amp right... it should enhance the sound stage a bit. Obviously you have to use caution because it will be very easy to over power your bass in relation to the rest of the frequencies. Not only because you're running more power, but because the actual quality of the bass will be much better; make the bass too prominent, it will highlight where the rest of the system is lacking in clarity and freq response.

Anyhow, the factory 5x7 subs are truly inadequate; IMO they are the low point of the system. So in that respect, it wouldn't take much in the aftermarket realm to address the issue. As I said, two 8"s or a 10" of decent quality with a well suited amp... make sure it's set-up right and I think he'll get exactly what he wants.
 
Sounds like Nate has the best option for what I'm looking for. Hopefully I can get this done in the next couple months and bring some feedback for everyone else.

dinka, if money were no issue right now, I'd certainly entertain your suggestion. I appreciate you pointing out a few non-mainstream manufacturers, I'll definately be looking into them.

I appreciate the feedback folks, I'll update just as soon as I make a move.
 
I recommend replacing the inside speakers with Memphis m-class 5x7's, they come with crossovers, so they wont let thru the low bass, you can get them online for about 100 dollars a pair. great speakers. and getting a 10" speaker in a sealed enclosure pushing like 500 watts, In my opinion Memphis is one of the best companies out there, and has a really great selection, one power reference 10 or 12 will do you good, especially in the right enclosure, they are also extremely well priced for the power and quality. I wouldn't recommend adding just a sub, I do not know how the stock head unit is on the ls, but the town car, and most other cars I've driven, let through too much low frequency bass that the stock speakers really shouldn't get (and most of the time can't handle without sounding horribly distorted) if there is a sub woofer present.
 
In my opinion this would be perfect for what you're looking for.
One of these subs would do well
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=2144
This amp would do well
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=374
Wiring kit
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=4733
And these speakers
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3019
504.95 without tax or shipping, so if this is within your price range i recommend this setup.
 
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