Suspension noise again...

M

Marcus101

Active LVC Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2017
Messages
75
Reaction score
2
Location
Canada
picture says it all...part is unattached and bent upwards.

My question is how did this happen? What part is this and can I change it myself without issue?
C5D13547-C31F-48C6-8DF3-0FAD7D74F65B.jpeg



This has caused loud creaking sounds in the rear for weeks.
 
Rear end link. However loud creaking could be your ball joint. See my recent thread..
 
It's an end-link for your rear anti-sway bar. I'll bet your rear toe-links are shot too. It's not the sway bar end link making the creaking noises. It's you lower control arm(s).
 
nghtshd88 said:
Rear end link. However loud creaking could be your ball joint. See my recent thread..
Click to expand...
Checked your thread and the sound is almost identical to that video you posted but the sound isn't emulated when I turn the wheel only when I hit minor bumps in the road. How expensive are these rear end links and are they difficult to change yourself?

Also, I sprayed the right rear control arm bushes and the sound on that side have been reduced significantly.
I used silicone spray; didn't use white lithium grease as I keep hearing it's not recommended.
 
Trust me, it's the lower control arm.
The end links are about $15 for the cheap ones (like the one you have now). The Ford ones are about $50. There's really nothing to changing them. That said, you must use new nyloc nuts. If you reuse the old ones, they'll loosen and fall off after a while.
 
I found out its my rear joint actually. It was worse on turns meaning I was moving not at a stand still like in that video. I highly doubt a bushing can sound as bad as that video though. Nor have I ever had one sound that bad. Interested to see what fixes it. Although Im sure your lower control arm is shot anyway. Most are.
 
Well, it could be something else, but when the control arm bushings wear enough, it gets down to metal on metal, and it does sound very bad.
 
joegr said:
Well, it could be something else, but when the control arm bushings wear enough, it gets down to metal on metal, and it does sound very bad.
Click to expand...
Decided to just change both rear control arms, plan on keeping the car until at least 275k (201k currently) so might as well fix it properly. I am located in Canada...with that being said, any recommended websites to order the parts from?
 
Marcus101 said:
Decided to just change both rear control arms, plan on keeping the car until at least 275k (201k currently) so might as well fix it properly. I am located in Canada...with that being said, any recommended websites to order the parts from?
Click to expand...
Ebay or Rockauto is always a start ...all depends how much money you want to spend ...are you going OEM or aftermarket?
 
Same problem. I thought it was my shocks. Now I think its a lower control arm after reading this.

Is it likely the upper control arms need to be replaced as well? Or do the lower arms tend to fail while the uppers hold out? I'm at 130,000 miles. Presumably what came with the car out of the factory. Rear toe adjust and sway bar links replaced one year ago. Used a new nylocs from screw and bolt store. no integrated washer. Used the washer they paired with the nylocs to match the ones I took out.

Any advice?
 
theg1ft said:
Same problem. I thought it was my shocks. Now I think its a lower control arm after reading this.

Is it likely the upper control arms need to be replaced as well? Or do the lower arms tend to fail while the uppers hold out? I'm at 130,000 miles. Presumably what came with the car out of the factory. Rear toe adjust and sway bar links replaced one year ago. Used a new nylocs from screw and bolt store. no integrated washer. Used the washer they paired with the nylocs to match the ones I took out.

Any advice?
Click to expand...

The lowers make most of the noise, but the bushings in the uppers wear out at about the same time. I'd (and in fact I did) replace the uppers at the same time.
Take care to follow the preloading instructions when installing them, it's important. The control arms have to be in the normal resting position before tightening the bolts.
 
Upper Arm
s6x~us~en~file=adobe.gif~gen~ref.gif
Printable View (122 KB)
Removal

s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect the performance of vital components and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation is necessary. Do not use a new part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

NOTE: The suspension upper arm bushings or ball joints are not serviced separately from the upper rear suspension arm. If the bushings or ball joints require service a new suspension upper arm must be installed.

  1. Remove the hub cap. Measure the distance from the center of the hub to the lip of the fender with the vehicle in a level, static ground position.

  • s6x~us~en~file=a0003608.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
  1. Unclip the wheel speed sensor wire retainer from the suspension upper arm.

  • s6x~us~en~file=a0000377.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. Remove the wheel speed sensor bolt and the wheel speed sensor. Position the sensor aside.

  • s6x~us~en~file=a0000335.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
    CAUTION: Use care not to damage the wheel speed sensor tone ring. A damaged sensor ring will result in incorrect ABS operation.

    NOTE: Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the ball joint from turning while removing the nut.

    Remove and discard the upper ball joint nut, then disconnect the upper ball joint from the wheel knuckle.
  1. Remove and discard the upper arm-to-subframe nuts and bolts and remove the upper arm.
Installation

s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
CAUTION: Do not tighten the suspension upper arm-to-subframe nuts until the suspension is at curb height. Failure to do so can cause severe damage to the bushings resulting in poor ride quality and handling.

  1. NOTE: The upper arm-to-subframe bolts and nuts are of a torque prevailing design. New bolts and nuts must be used.

    Position the arm on the subframe and install new suspension upper arm-to-subframe nuts and bolts. Do not tighten at this time.
  1. s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
    CAUTION: Use care not to damage the wheel speed sensor tone ring. A damaged sensor ring will result in incorrect ABS operation.

    NOTE: Install the ball joint nut using the hex-holding feature until snug. Final tighten the nut using a line-type crow's foot and a torque wrench.

    Connect the ball joint to the wheel knuckle and hub assembly. Install a new ball joint nut.
    • Tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).
  1. Clip the wheel speed sensor wire to the suspension upper arm.
  1. Position the wheel speed sensor and install the bolt.
    • Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
  1. Position a jack stand under the suspension lower arm and raise the suspension until the distance between the center of the hub and the lip of the fender is equal to the measurement taken in Removal, Step 1.

  • s6x~us~en~file=a0003609.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. Tighten the upper arm-to-subframe nuts.
    • Tighten to 90 Nm (66 lb-ft).
  1. Lower the suspension and remove the jack stand.




Lower Arm
s6x~us~en~file=adobe.gif~gen~ref.gif
Printable View (66 KB)
Removal

s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect the performance of vital components and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation is necessary. Do not use a new part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

NOTE: The lower arm bushings are not serviced separately from the lower suspension arm. If the bushings require service, a new lower arm must be installed.

  1. With the vehicle in a static, level ground position, remove the hub cap and measure the distance from the center of the hub to the lip of the fender (curb height).

  • s6x~us~en~file=a0003608.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
  1. Remove the rear brake disc. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .
  1. Remove and discard the shock absorber lower bolt and disconnect the shock absorber and spring assembly from the lower arm.
  1. s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
    CAUTION: Do not use air tools to remove the nut. Damage to the boot can result.

    NOTE: Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the stabilizer bar link ball joint from turning while removing the stabilizer bar link nut.

    Remove and discard the stabilizer bar link lower nut and disconnect the stabilizer bar link.
  1. Remove and discard the lower arm-to-wheel knuckle bolt and disconnect the lower arm.
  1. Remove and discard the lower arm-to-subframe bolts and remove the lower arm.
Installation

s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
CAUTION: Do not tighten the lower arm-to-subframe fasteners until the suspension is at curb height. Failure to do so can cause severe damage to the bushings resulting in poor ride quality and handling.

  1. Position the lower arm onto the subframe and install new lower arm-to-subframe bolts and nuts. Do not tighten at this time.
  1. Connect the lower arm to the wheel knuckle. Install a new lower arm-to-wheel knuckle nut and bolt.
    • Tighten to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft).
  1. s6x~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif
    CAUTION: Do not use air tools to install the nut. Damage to the boot can result.

    NOTE: Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the stabilizer bar link ball joint from turning while installing the nut on the stabilizer bar link. Tighten the nut to specification using a socket and a torque wrench.

    Connect the stabilizer bar link to the lower arm. Install a new stabilizer bar link lower nut.
    • Tighten to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
  1. Position the shock absorber and spring assembly onto the lower arm. Install a new shock absorber lower bolt.
    • Tighten to 133 Nm (98 lb-ft).
  1. Position a jack stand under the lower arm and raise the suspension until the measurement between the center of the hub and the lip of the fender is equal to the measurement taken in Removal, Step 1 (curb height).

  • s6x~us~en~file=a0003609.gif~gen~ref.gif
  1. Tighten the lower arm-to-subframe rear bolt. Tighten the lower arm-to-subframe front nut.
    • Tighten to 175 Nm (129 lb-ft).
  1. Lower the suspension and remove the jack stand.
  1. Install the rear brake disc. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .
 
So has everyone literally used new bolts and nuts? Or can I just reuse the old with loctite..
 
Can't I just change the bushings in my upper and lower control arms instead? If so, what size do I need?
 
joegr said:
The lowers make most of the noise, but the bushings in the uppers wear out at about the same time. I'd (and in fact I did) replace the uppers at the same time.
Take care to follow the preloading instructions when installing them, it's important. The control arms have to be in the normal resting position before tightening the bolts.
Click to expand...

Any advice on which control arms seem to have a good rep? I'm going to buy from rock auto.

Also going with KYB GR-2/Excel-G shocks. Do you know if stock springs fit these?
 
The bushings are special, they twist instead of sliding. Of course, some on here have put the sliding ones in. AFAIK, they didn't have any complaints about the change. The arms are aluminum, so you aren't supposed to press bushing out and in. There is a very slight danger of sudden failure of the arm.

I see Ford upper arms at about $150 and lower at about $300.
 
$490 total for both rears OEM on tasca. Uppers $150 each. I read the bushings were $240 for both lowers not including the labor.
 
joegr said:
The bushings are special, they twist instead of sliding. Of course, some on here have put the sliding ones in. AFAIK, they didn't have any complaints about the change. The arms are aluminum, so you aren't supposed to press bushing out and in. There is a very slight danger of sudden failure of the arm.

I see Ford upper arms at about $150 and lower at about $300.
Click to expand...
Ship to Canada? nevermind tasca ships to canada, much cheaper than ebay. Thanks joe!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 297 (members: 0, guests: 297)
Back
Top