Swapping Out Engines / Have some questions.

KC96LSC

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
855
Reaction score
3
Location
Kansas City
Hey all, I'm getting ready to swap out my 96 engine and putting in one out of a 94. I already have the post where LaserSVT put together the awesome post of him and Sapperfire pulling the engine out of the Gen II. Again, that is a GREAT write up.

Here are some issues and questions:

First of all the car/engine has been sitting out at my family home for 6 years, when I dropped it out there I checked and it had anti. in the cross over tube. Now it's dry and I know I need to do some type of flush on it, it's still full in the reservoir. Also need to do compression test. The problem is I pulled the A/C compressor so the serpentine belt is off. I was able to put a wrench on the balance/Crank and it turns over, so that's a good start. I may be able to put a battery in and still get it to crank over. So any advice here would be great. I pulled the dip stick and it looks good.

I've actually pulled a couple engines in the past but that was back when it was a piece of cake. Also I built up a 350 with 2.02s 12.5 to 1 and so on. I think it's in my photo gallery, it's the pic of the Ultra Z. This is a whole new beast for me, but I'm sure I can handle it. I have a wrench turner and muscle guy to help me do the work, otherwise it wouldn't be happening. I'm psychically limited because of side effects of throat cancer.

Question, when I drop the K-member, do I need to mark the placement so when we put it back in, it goes back in the same place or is there only one position it will go back in?

Please don't assume I already know anything, if anyone would give me advice and things I should pay attention to, it would be appreciated. Such as things I should test and procedures I should follow.

Thanks in advance,

Greg
 
there are alignment holes for the k member.
you can use a piece of pipe to get the k member pretty well lined up upon installation.

i dropped the k member on my 96 and was able to put it back using those holes.
i haven't had the alignment checked, but everything seems just fine.
 
Greg, I think I would throw a battery in it and start it first. Obviously you can't run it too long without a belt to turn the water pump, but at least you would can hear it run. The only problem with that is the fuel system is probably varnished up, but I would try anyway.
 
Just helped my friend pull a motor from his 97 this past Saturday. We used two wheel dollies. One for the trans pan to set in and one for the oil pan and was able to roll it all out from the side. Had it out within 2 hours. Used an engine hoist and straps on the front to pick it up with. Worked out pretty good and wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

20150418_113920.jpg

20150418_135213.jpg

20150418_135239.jpg

20150418_141651.jpg

20150418_113920.jpg


20150418_135213.jpg


20150418_135239.jpg


20150418_141651.jpg
 
Greg, i did have my alignment checked finally the other day. everything was within spec, and they didn't change anything.
 
Greg, I think I would throw a battery in it and start it first. Obviously you can't run it too long without a belt to turn the water pump, but at least you would can hear it run. The only problem with that is the fuel system is probably varnished up, but I would try anyway.

Roger, first of all I want you to know I'm thinking about you guys and wishing the best. As for the engine switch, I wasn't able to get it started but I did run compression check and with fingers crossed, I think it's good to go as far as that issue. It's taking some time BC I'm only able to work on it a bit at a time. I have the donor engine almost ready to drop. One thing I'm wondering is, once I have the engine on the engine stand, I want to flush it out (engine block cooling system) since its been sitting for so long. What is the best way to get it cleaned out thoroughly? I'm sure I'll be back with more questions down the road. Thanks Roger
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top