Sway bar bushings- sport or non-sport

[RigsLS]

The inside of the hard rubber bushing, which is the inner part that wraps around the bar, it hardens over time, when it creates enough space/slack, it will start making a mild thumping sound when the front end travels slowly over uneven surfaces. The bracket and the bushings are stationary and the bar bangs around.

Note the bolts holding the brackets through, are long, to the point you think it's Christmas before it comes out.

Clean the dirt up around the bar where the bushings clamps down and a smear of silicon lube all inside the bushings. Grease the thread on the bolts. Some of the brackets bolts are more easily managed from the top, with long extensions and a swivel.

The DCCV needs to be moved slightly out of the way. It has two bolts, only one needs to come completely out, the other, I think it was the top one, only needs to be loosened as the DCCV bracket is hooked around it. As you loosen the bolt a few turns, the DCCV on it's bracket can be lifted up and around away from the bolt.

 

[GreyWisent]

RockAuto also carries the Rein XR819697 sport bushings. More Information for ÜRO PARTS XR819697. Buy here link.

I picked up a pair a while back and have been procrastinating installing them. I just measured them and the inner diameter is 30mm. After reading BigRigs's info, I have a bit of a headache, as I didn't know the Gen 2 bushings and brackets are molded on. I was wondering if I could somehow cut the rubber bushing out, but from reading Deacon's post, it looks like there's a metal ring all the way around. Looks like I have to now hunt for a Gen 1 in a junk yard. Are the brackets the same size for sport and standard as well as for both generations? What about the Jag mounting bracket? Are they compatible in any way?

Otherwise, it looks like I have two other options:
1. Pick up a pair of those energy suspension bushings JUST for the bracket. Any idea if that would that work or is the bracket part of the reason they slide? I'm inclined to think "no" because there's no guarantee the outer diameters of the bushings I have (Rein) and the ones that come with the bracket are the same...

2. Get a whole new sway bar. Has anyone changed this? Is it difficult? Do I need to remove any sub-frame components? The manual seems to just say that you only decouple the shocks and some AC components.

For the Gen 2, I wonder if you can somehow destroy the bushing (drill through the side, etc.) and slide the clamp off and then fit it on top of the new bushing. I think this is just a fantasy, but I wonder if you can remove the bottom part of the clamp ring and fit it that way...
Too bad that seeing how Deacon posted that in 2015, I assume he doesn't have the cut through brackets/bushings anymore to get an inner diameter from them

 

[RigsLS]

For the Gen 2, I wonder if you can somehow destroy the bushing (drill through the side, etc.) and slide the clamp off and then fit it on top of the new bushing. I think this is just a fantasy, but I wonder if you can remove the bottom part of the clamp ring and fit it that way...

Yeah, that's a bit far fetched ... it's literally molded all around the bushings. It's either cut the whole thing (including bracket) off or none.

Best of to source some 1st GEN brackets and clean them up, if you want to go with the JAG Rein XR819697 bushing that is.

You could buy the ES set up just to get the brackets but they are too narrow. You'd still have to get some collars to keep them in place.

 

[RigsLS]

After reading BigRigs's info, I have a bit of a headache ...

Do tend to have that affect on people for some reason

 

[GreyWisent]

Best of to source some 1st GEN brackets and clean them up, if you want to go with the JAG Rein XR819697 bushing that is.

Out of curiosity, has anyone tried the Jag brackets? I imagine they would fit the JAG Rein XR819697 bushing (that it's made for) perfectly, so it would only be a matter for bolting it to the frame.

Do tend to have that affect on people for some reason

 

[RigsLS]

Out of curiosity, has anyone tried the Jag brackets? ...

Potentially you'd be the first. Don't think I've ever seen anyone source JAG front sway bar bushing brackets. I'd imagine it would fit and work depending if you can get them stand alone. I know that Ford will sell you the entire bar for a second GEN. Even 1st GEN guys that have inquired about the bushings have been told by Ford they are no longer made and have to purchase the entire bar for a 2nd GEN which fits the 1st GEN 30mm front end.

I'd as sooner find a 1st GEN in a salvage yard and obtain the bracket and hardware. Clean them up and install with the Rein XR819697 sport bushings.

I replaced them on my 01 Sport as such but of course already had the brackets and bolts.

Note the bolts are long from here to Christmas, removing them or putting them back in will keep you wondering if you have time to run in for a fresh shave. With the new bushing which needs to compress down around the bar within the bracket, it'll feel real snug and tight going in. To the point I kept on double checking myself to see if I was mis-threading or not. Had me concerned for sure. Given I had my brackets sand blasted and fresh paint probably hindered the bolt going in a bit I suppose.

You'll need some long extensions and swivels on the ratchet, couple of them bolt you can get from underneath but the passenger side, near the DCCV will test you from the top on the most awkward angle. The DCCV will need to be loosened and pushed aside slightly. I had to affix the socket on the bolt from down below, then attached the ratchet with extensions from atop. Not my most favorite job simply due to the access to it.

... still was somewhat fun though ... Good luck w/ repair.

.

 

[AmsterDutch]

Does your gear shift have "+" and "-" on it? - Sport
Or, enter your VIN here and see what you have: FordEtis home page

Thanks for the web address Really appreciated I just found out my LS is a Sport

 

[cammerfe]

Many here instantly reject any result that isn't a complete duplicate bolt on. I'm sitting here looking at E.S. 2.511OR 30 MM bushings/brackets. I also bought a pair of 1 1/4" cable clamps to hold the bar centered. (One to the outside of each of the bushings.) I believe I paid about $15 for the E.S. bushing kit and a buck and a half each for the cable clamps. (Found in bulk bins next to the bulk rolls of steel cable at the box store. How hard can this be?

KS

 

[rgorke]

I am getting ready to do this repair on my 2004 LS V8 sport. I have the 30mm bar. I ordered and received the black ES bushings/brackets and the collars.

I have read through Deacanblue's post from a couple years ago. I do have a couple of clarifying questions.

1) I was under the car a few days back, just surveying where things were and also greasing the existing bushings a bit to reduce the annoying creak. I seemed to be able to get a socket wrench on both bolts on the passenger side from underneath w/o moving the DCCV. I didn't try and loosen the bolts. Is that the issue, being able to work the rachet or get the socket on to begin with?

2) Is changing the end links recommended or "you probably should" or ok to leave them?

3) Just replacing the bushings doesn't alter alignment, does it?

Thanks!!!

 

[joegr]

1. I removed mine (04 V8) without moving the DCCV or aux pump. I used a very long socket extension from the top for one bolt, and accessed the other bolt from below, I think.

2. I'd bet that they are worn out, but you should be able to tell by looking at them. Do note that the nuts are nylocs and must be replaced with new ones.

3. No.

 

[rgorke]

1. I removed mine (04 V8) without moving the DCCV or aux pump. I used a very long socket extension from the top for one bolt, and accessed the other bolt from below, I think.

2. I'd bet that they are worn out, but you should be able to tell by looking at them. Do note that the nuts are nylocs and must be replaced with new ones.

3. No.

Thanks!!!

I'll get a long extension and swivel, just in case.

 

[GreyWisent]

I did this job recently and I'm overdue for sharing my findings. Thanks everyone for their help!

Gen 2 V8 Sport (2003 V8). Front sway bar bushings.

I used the URO/Rein XR819697 bushings and can confirm that their inner diameter is 30mm. I also managed to pick up a Jaguar S-Type mounting bracket from a dismantler on eBay for cheap, instead of a 1st Gen LS one for the conversion. Jaguar seems to use this part in a lot of their cars and is a lot more common.
Jaguar part C2D11879 or XW43-5486-AB (the latter was stamped on the part). This part number matches the 1st Gen mounting number almost perfectly - I think the year digit is different. I drew some diagrams of both with measurements. If anyone has any use for them, please ask.

I've been driving with this setup for almost 2 months and it's doing great. The only complaint I have is that the sway bar slid to the left a bit (5mm) after 2 weeks and then back in place. The Gen 2 sway bar doesn't have the little ridge that the 1st Gen seems to have as referenced by Rigs in post 15 so there's nothing to stop it from sliding. I will eventually probably have to invest in some of those collars that people are using with their ES bushings. Has anyone had this happen to them? (Gen 1 bushing and bracket on a Gen 2 bar).

@rgorke, here is my input for you:
1) As you well know, you'll have to destroy/cut out the Gen2 sway bar bushing and mounting bracket to convert it to a serviceable Gen1 equivalent. You may be fine removing the bolts, but for me cutting it wasn't that easy. I ended up having to remove the fan, but just because of my lack of dexterity and appropriate cutting tools, it doesn't mean you will too. Everyone else here seems to have managed just fine. If you do remove the fan, you'll have to set aside all that stuff you mentioned anyway.
I was not able to slide the original bushing-brackets on the bar, nor rotate them. You'll also have to be careful where you make the cuts so the bar can slide out.

2) What Joe said. You'll have to disconnect the links to do this (from what I've read and experience), so you might as well just change them... According to the Gen 2 manual, the stock nuts are not nyloc, but "of a prevailing design" (i.e. the elliptical ones the deform when you tighten them to stay put), but I think many replacements come with nylocs. I haven't had a single positive experience removing nylocs, so I would at least recommend picking up some of the elliptical nuts. The Ford dealer here in Canada sells them for $0.50 a piece (apparently they come separate from the links in the OE packaging... according to the parts guy said anyway).

Again, thanks everyone.

 

[EJay58]

2) What Joe said. You'll have to disconnect the links to do this (from what I've read and experience), so you might as well just change them... According to the Gen 2 manual, the stock nuts are not nyloc, but "of a prevailing design" (i.e. the elliptical ones the deform when you tighten them to stay put), but I think many replacements come with nylocs. I haven't had a single positive experience removing nylocs, so I would at least recommend picking up some of the elliptical nuts. The Ford dealer here in Canada sells them for $0.50 a piece (apparently they come separate from the links in the OE packaging... according to the parts guy said anyway).

I received Moog Rear Links with the lube joint and bolt in a separate package. When I used the nuts at installation they began stripping the threads on the links. Is this the general nature of the elliptical nuts you described above?

 

[GreyWisent]

I received Moog Rear Links with the lube joint and bolt in a separate package. When I used the nuts at installation they began stripping the threads on the links. Is this the general nature of the elliptical nuts you described above?

No... I don't think that should happen. Sounds bad. Are they stripping away the surface finish of the threads or fully damaging them? From my experience, it's the nut that deforms, not the bolt threads that get damaged. They should install relatively easily (i.e doesn't feel like you're twisting metal out of shape).

 

[EJay58]

Are they stripping away the surface finish of the threads or fully damaging them?

I could only get the provided nuts to turn down to the width of the nut and when removed, it had twisted the metal in both the nut and the bolt. I then matched the treading with the old OEM Links and noticed that it was finer on the Moog Sway Links. I was able to locate bolts that fit the Moog threading in the shop and used them with locktite, but I will definitely get to a parts store and purchase locknuts right away. I got the Moogs from Rock Auto and I'll be sending them a note about my problem as well once I locate the right nuts.

I was just curious about what you explained in your post, whether or not I was experiencing a different problem or just not torqueing the nuts enough to get them seated.