system questions

jthorn75

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what do you guys reccomend for a system...3 10's or 3 12's or 2 15's.. i listen to rap mostly but i do listen to it all so that should be takin into condiseration
 
Way to many factors need to be considered. SQ or SPL? Budget? Trunk Space? AMP? types of drivers???
 
jthorn75 said:
what do you guys reccomend for a system...3 10's or 3 12's or 2 15's.. i listen to rap mostly but i do listen to it all so that should be takin into condiseration

All depends on how much space in the trunk you want to give up. An enclosure could make 1 10 sound just as good as 2 12's.

I myself will be designing an enclosure for 2 12's. Just not sure how I want to go about it just yet......


Chris_n_FL <------- *owned*
 
:I
whatsupadrian said:
Way to many factors need to be considered. SQ or SPL? Budget? Trunk Space? AMP? types of drivers???
:I
i used to have 4 12s because i wanted the bass and had the space. i really depends what your looking for. right now im going to get just 1 ten and have it flush mounted in the spare slot, and put a heavy duty grill over it so i dont lose any trunk space, i have to figure out what im going to do with the batterie though.
 
itsnotmydaddys said:
:I
:I
i used to have 4 12s because i wanted the bass and had the space. i really depends what your looking for. right now im going to get just 1 ten and have it flush mounted in the spare slot, and put a heavy duty grill over it so i dont lose any trunk space, i have to figure out what im going to do with the batterie though.

i just looked at my spare tire compartment and that doesn't seem like a very hard tast, your battery can probably stay where it is, but you can easily glass around the battery...
 
the only thing i was concerned with is how do you still lift up the cover when the speaker in it. if you mount the speaker on the cover it wont be able to lift it up. how would you do it. and what would you drop in it. and what amp
 
itsnotmydaddys said:
the only thing i was concerned with is how do you still lift up the cover when the speaker in it. if you mount the speaker on the cover it wont be able to lift it up. how would you do it. and what would you drop in it. and what amp

instead of mounting it to the top of the spare cover i would mount it to the space under and not have it attached to the top, then use some plexiflass or something to make it look nice.
 
Well we are just now getting start on some fiberglassing the rear corners of the trunk to try to save as much trunk space as i can on the car. I am putting 2 jl w7's 10". Think the corners would be pretty cool but don't know yet. Having to build a false floor of course so i'm taking out the factory cover. I still wanted my spare tire so we won't be using really any space in the spare tire well.
 
Another option is Free-air speakers. Infinity makes 10's and 12 inch size woofers that have free-air capability. This way you won't lose trunk space and they really sound great! The trade off is that they are not cheap, but you can find them on ebay roughly around $300-$400/pair.
 
itsnotmydaddy has been PMing me and i am going to post here because this could help out other with system questions...

itsnotmydaddys said:
well i have a 00 ls v8 with the audiophile system. im trying to keep the stock hu for now. i just bought 2 pair of boston rx87 and am going to put them in the doors. ive read some specs that say the audiophile system comes with 2 subs mounted on the back deck. not sure but i think they are 6x9(quik told me) also. so since im already going to have enough highs in the car im gonna need some bass. and for the other specs quik posted on the thread. what would you do im my case

You still need to answer some other questions. Whats more importaint to you, SQ or SPL (sound quality or sound projection level). What is your budget? How much space are you willing to sacrifice???

Ok assuming that you want to go with an inexpensive SQ setup.... Since you plan on using the stock headunit it will not get loud enough for you to need more then one driver to hangle all the low end fill. Also assuming that you want to save as much trunk space as possible you will want to go sealed. Now since it will be a small enclosure sealed then a 12" might be choice in this application, 10"s are indeed capable of hitting as low of frequencies as 12"s but since we are going with a sealed box then the ability to tune the sub doesn't really exist. Lets say $300 budget.

Driver/AMP
I would choose the Infinity Reference 1230W and match it with the Infinity Reference 310A. You can probably get both on ebay for about $200. Great sounding sub in sealed enclosure.

Go to walmart and get an 8awg wire kit, $20 IIRC

High to low converter.(tap from rear doors not subs.) $20 shipped Probably cheeper at walmart
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=60208&item=5761086495&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Enclosure... < $50
Option A
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50568&item=5760185941&rd=1
Option B
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50568&item=5761752825&rd=1

Total $290 give or take...

With the regular sealed enclosure take an old cotton/poliester pillow and fill the enclosure 1/3rd the way full then put sub in (polyfil- It will trick your enclosure into thinking its bigger then it actually is and you will get a deeper sound). With the bandpass it should sound nice and tight And the sealed should sound boomy and clean. The sealed will have better SQ but the bandpass should be louder. I don't remember how much room the stock subs take but it might be a good idea to remove them. If you didn't want to run a RCAs from the HU to the trunk with the Hight to Low converter then i did write how to convert the stock sub's wire harness to RCAs and i will look for that.

EDIT:
whatsupadrian said:
It will sound like :q:q:q:q but can be done... The RCA will share a common ground... which is not going to do very well for sheilding. Also the DSP will limit your volume on the amp because the crossover is built into your HU To get better output use a High to low converter and run your RCAs from that but if you insist on using the stock low level outputs then here ya go......

Heres how you would do your job...

yellow/red wire will be your remote wire to amp...

red wire is your hot wire which i don't recommend using for an aftermarket amp its just so small, run a new wire directly from your batter which is already in the trunk so it will be piece of cake. Make sure you keep that wire insolated so that it doesn't short on the stray grounded metal in your trunk.

white/red wire will be the core of the Left RCA, she sheild will be the black wire wrapped in what looks like tape, keep in mind that that will be shared with the right RCA.

grey/red wire will be the right core for your RCA, remember it will share the same sheild as your left wire.

Black wire (not the sheild) will obviously be the ground wire. again i recommend just running a new ground...

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Here is also something to consider. Some amplifiers give off radical signal noise. Your antenna is right above your trunk in your rear windsheild. In my case my amps signal noise gives me poor reception. But then again i am running a 3000 watt class D amp.
 

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