Takes a while for heat to work............

[DerickAB72]

I was wondering if anyone else was having a similar problem with their heat as I do. I have to ride around for a few minutes before the heat will start to blow hot. I have to set the temp to 90 and its takes a good 15 minutes before you can start feeling the warm heat coming out of the vents. I know about the dccv but since the heat does work can it still be bad?

Just curious that's all..........

 

[Ghost_Ls8]

i think thats normal , here its 14 degrees and the heats may take 10 minutes to get rolling , mine is also set to 90 , but once it comes on it gets hot quick

 

[myfirstlincoln]

That seems fairly normal although I don't think it takes quite that long for my car. I usually start my car in the morning and let it run for about 5 minutes before I hop in. After it sits for five minutes, and I drive for about five minutes, it's comfortable.

From what I understand, it warms up quicker by driving rather than letting it sit.

 

[joegr]

Mine's quicker than that, but it's warmer here and I usually start out from a garage that is warmer than outside.
Please note that there's no reason to set the temp to 90. Just leave it at 70 or whatever. It will still heat up and reach the temperature that you want just as quickly. If it's five or ten degrees colder inside than your set temperature, it's going to heat at the maximum rate anyway (just like when you set it to 90).

 

[DerickAB72]

Cool thanks for the feedback guys I'll stop tweeking with the coolant system now then. LOL I was thinking I had a leak somewhere because it was taking so long.

 

[MONTE 02 LS]

Cool air when idling and warm air when driving?

 

[milehighmikey]

When my car was in its first couple of years, it would be blowing nice warm air after a short idle and then 800 foot drive to the traffic signals outside of work, in 20 degree or so air, or colder. It now takes 10+ minutes to get anything nearly that warm, 266K miles and 13 years later. The temperature gauge shows normal but the air coming out of the vents is only 40-45 degrees, until, like the original poster, 15 minutes elapses, then things show signs of improvement. I need to devise a plan to flush the heater cores out. Joe, I'm not sure why you think it would be rare to have both cores get clogged, since the dual climate settings are always kept in sync. I always use distilled water in a 50/50 mixture, or use factory mixed 50/50 pre-mix coolant. I need to get-r-done asap.

 

[Jim Henderson]

I live in So Calif so my experience is probably different but my heat usually kicks in after maybe 3-5 minutes. I usually am on the freeway at that point for maybe a minute.

But, I have had the Thermostat housing fail on me which caused the T stat to not work and then my heat takes 15 minutes or even never to come on. Never is usualy if it is below say 40F.

So it may be worthwhile to check the inside of the TStat housing. Inside the GEN 2(2004 and later?) V8s there are 2 square plastic ears in the throat. The T stat "screws" into those ears. If on or both ears fail the T stat won't work. One symptom is that the water temp guage also takes forever to get to normal.

I do not know if the V6 is the same and I have heard the gen 1 V8s are different there. You didn't specify.

Might also be a failed Tstat, but I think on at least the gen 2 V8, it would be difficult to do a hot water test unless you dunk the whole housing.

Worth a thought.

Jim Henderson

 

[FDR]

Mine's quicker than that, but it's warmer here and I usually start out from a garage that is warmer than outside.
Please note that there's no reason to set the temp to 90. Just leave it at 70 or whatever. It will still heat up and reach the temperature that you want just as quickly. If it's five or ten degrees colder inside than your set temperature, it's going to heat at the maximum rate anyway (just like when you set it to 90).

I wish my dad would understand there are several degrees of variance between 60 and 90... He only believes in adjusting fan speed, despite both of his cars having auto AC. Sure, he might find it comfortable, but when the car reaches his temperature, he sets it to the floor vents and roasts my feet. More specifically, the '10 Explorer roasts one foot. The Taurus at last has the courtesy of putting the vent above your toes and not in the center console.

Set it to auto and just adjust it by a few degrees. The car will figure it out. Conveniently, it will also wait to turn up the fan for the heat until the engine starts to warm up, saving some wear on the engine.

 

[RigsLS]

Cool air when idling and warm air when driving?

At low idle RPM's the 12volt Coolant Flow Pump is used to push coolant through, when this little pump stops working one does not get any heat at idle.
Note that this pump is also used for engine cooldown after shutdown. Continues to quietly push hot coolant through system.

2000-2002 Lincoln LS, 1st GEN V8, Replace Auxiliary Coolant Flow Pump with OEM p/n 1W4Z-18D473-AA

Re&Re - OEM Auxiliary Coolant Flow Pump - GEN 1 V8
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...p-Re-OEM-Auxiliary-Coolant-Flow-Pump-GEN-1-V8


Auxiliary Coolant Flow Pump >> http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...mation&p=2037264709&viewfull=1#post2037264709

~ The Auxiliary coolant flow pump is electrically driven and provides increased coolant flow during low engine speed operation.
~ The pump is also used to circulate coolant after the engine is turned off under certain conditions.






more: GEN I - Understanding Climate Control System - No Heat Information
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...ng-Climate-Control-System-No-Heat-Information

 

[milehighmikey]

It was 24 degrees out this morning, I drove to work in the bright sunshine and 20 miles into the trip, the temperature of the heated air was just 82 degrees F. The engine temp gauge was at normal (9 o'clock) after driving less than 1 mile.