The really annoying thermostat and 9n499 change

joegr said:
Remove the intake manifold, and cut the bolt head off. After you pull the pipe off, there will be room to lock a pair of vise grips on the remainder of the bolt and screw it out. Be sure to stuff rags in the intake ports to keep anything from flying into them. Also, be sure to remove them just before reinstalling the intake. If you didn't buy intake gaskets, you can put a little (very little) gasket maker on both sides of the old gaskets.

Alternately, you could use a bolt-out, but you'd still have to remove the intake to use it. At that point, I think just cutting the bolt is easier since you aren't going to reuse the pipe anyway.
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The bolt is screwed in all the way if I cut will I still be able to remove it? Can I cut off the bolt with out taking the intake manifold off?
 
thenewguy said:
The bolt is screwed in all the way if I cut will I still be able to remove it? Can I cut off the bolt with out taking the intake manifold off?
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It's only flush with the top of the pipe. Once you cut the head off and remove the pipe, enough of the bolt will be exposed to grab on to it. It should be easy to turn then. If not, you may need to soak it with PB blaster or such. It could be that enough coolant leaked for long enough to corrode it. Also, have you even tried a six point socket?

You may be able to do all this with the manifold on, but you are increasing your risk factor to get out of another hour (30 minutes to take off, 30 to put it back on) of work. You've already wasted way more than that.
 
It's not the hard work I'm scared of. I don't think I'm capable of doing it or I would of instead of taking this route. So cut the bolt as it sits flush fully screwed in. Remove the plastic neck and vice grip the remaining piece out? What if the remaining part will not screw did I compromise the car?
 
joegr said:
It's only flush with the top of the pipe. Once you cut the head off and remove the pipe, enough of the bolt will be exposed to grab on to it. It should be easy to turn then. If not, you may need to soak it with PB blaster or such. It could be that enough coolant leaked for long enough to corrode it. Also, have you even tried a six point socket?

You may be able to do all this with the manifold on, but you are increasing your risk factor to get out of another hour (30 minutes to take off, 30 to put it back on) of work. You've already wasted way more than that.
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I originally used the 6 point and tried with an wrench when that wouldn't work. I think because of the angle it would not sit on the bolt right and stripped it
 
To take off the manifold do I only need to take of the ten bolts shown on here or is there more I need to do once I take this part off? engine screw.gif

engine screw.gif
 
joegr said:
There are a couple of nuts at the back that face rearward that hold the wiring harness on. Those at least have to be loosened to get the harness off. There's also a vacuum hose to pull off. There's also a sequence to use to re-install. This covers it fairly well.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x31006.htm~gen~ref.htm
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Hey thanks again. DO I need to do all the steps shown such as disconnect 8 fuel injectors and the radio interference, Remove the 2 nuts and the engine wiring harness retainer, Remove the nut and the radio interference ignition capacitor, Disconnect the fuel supply tube spring lock coupling from the fuel rail, Disconnect the fuel supply tube spring lock coupling from the fuel rail? I just ask because I have no idea what these are, what they look like and where to find them.
 
Yes, those things have to be done. Be very careful with the fuel injector connectors. The plastic tabs that locks them in are very brittle and easy to break.
Perhaps you need someone with you who has done stuff like this before.
 
Unfortunately the only people I know are busy and don't have the time. I don't have a choice but to figure it out. It's been a week already but what can I do?
 
I gave up and having it towed to a mechanic later today. My hat is off to all of you that know how to do this stuff and do it. Thank you for all the help you guys gave me I really appreciate you guys taking the time to help me out. Special thanks to JOEGR for really trying to help non stop. May all your cars stay problem free and run amazing for as long as you own them. THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE
 
DAMMIT!!!

Sorry Newguy... I just saw your post. Guess it doesn't matter now since the car went to a shop. For future reference,,, next time go to sears and get a set of those spiral cut bolt extractor sockets. They will grab just about any stripped head. Also,,, use a heat gun to heat the aluminum part of the flange on the block, (below the gooskneck)... and it should expand the aluminum enough at the bolt hole to get a stuck bolt out.

---Mike---
 
04_Sport_LS said:
DAMMIT!!!

Sorry Newguy... I just saw your post. Guess it doesn't matter now since the car went to a shop. For future reference,,, next time go to sears and get a set of those spiral cut bolt extractor sockets. They will grab just about any stripped head. Also,,, use a heat gun to heat the aluminum part of the flange on the block, (below the gooskneck)... and it should expand the aluminum enough at the bolt hole to get a stuck bolt out.

---Mike---
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Thanks Mike. Yah the car is with the mechanic now said 350-400 If nothing else comes up I supplied all the parts. I bought screw out, bolt out, wobble adaptors everything you can think of but since the intake manifold is sitting right on top I couldn't get proper access to make any of it actually work. Thanks for the heads up though always willing to learn different ways and methods.
 
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