Thermostat housing

richardsMk8

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Joined
Jul 19, 2009
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Help. I drained my cooling system. Replace the thermostat, and an oring, for the thermostat housing, added coolant. Now, it's leaking between the thermostat housing. Why is this leaking, between the housing? Am I supposed to add a gasket, too?
 
I dont remember if there was a gasket or O ring in there but my leak was from the rusted/corroded pipes on the housing. Heres my fix from 5 years ago
Repairing a rotten lower Thermostat Housing You really need to pull the hoses off entirely and give it a complete looking over for rot.
 
I have manage to get the leak, to stop from the thermostat housing. Now, my Lincoln will not start. Grr. I crank it, no start. I even sprayed starter fluid inside the throttle body l, too Still, no start. Any hints, on what it could be? It has gas in the tank.
 
Read this link, There are a few things to try in it. Its possible your PATS is not reading your key any more? Hope you find the answer.
 
Problem solved. The 2 wires on the CPS, have no insulation covering the wires and shorted out. I made the wiring better, with insulation over both wires. The car started after this.
 
I got a check engine light on, with a P1414 code. I looked it up, as air injection pump. Ok, how do I troubleshoot this?
 
Get rid of the air bags for springs. Alot of folks do it to rid them selves of aging rubber components that just dont stand the test of time like shocks and springs. The trans solenoid codes you have can be the shift solenoid as indicated or a broken valve spring in the valve body (common). Or maybe bad wires. When I had my trans J-mod-ed, I had them put in new shaft seals front n rear. The seeping trans fluid from the rear had soaked the main trans harness plug back there that in turn turned all the plug wire insulation rubber to a chalk like substance than would just fall off the copper strand wires. I had to cut out something like 18 inches of compromised wire from the plug forward with new wire. I was very lucky the chalk insulation had not yet shorted anything out. When I had the J-mod done, you get nice quality valve springs to swap in since broken ones are not unusual. The J-mod is a huge factor why I'm still running this car. A 1-2 / 2-3 shift is so clean and sharp that any kind of throttle up past a 3000 rpm shift produces a satisfying seat back body compression. The original slush box porting was grandma on crutches in the bread aisle. Very sad. Good luck with your codes. In the end you could end up with a nice reliable cruiser thats not bad on highway gas economy.
 
The P1414 code could be tricky to diagnose. I'm not an expert, but maybe check the air pump's electrical connections? Corrosion or loose wires might trigger that code.
 

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