thinking about doing the jmod.. couple questions

ALWAYS put the updated rubber 2-3 accumulator with no springs for best results.
I have NEVER heard anyone say otherwise.

Use the newer rubber 1-2 accumulator with AT LEAST the light blue spring in first. If you want harsher, use the light green or the brown which is the stiffest spring; then put the accumulator in the hole.
If you want HARD shifts, don't put a spring after the accumulator. If you want it "not so harsh", put the spring back in after the accumulator that came with it stock (most are purple).
 
ALWAYS put the updated rubber 2-3 accumulator with no springs for best results.
I have NEVER heard anyone say otherwise.

Really, well I might just try that. Anyone else disagree?
 
the jmod or any valvebody improvement kit works fine. if you want practice and want to get your hands dirty im all for trying to understand more about how different things work.all things considered the j mod on my 98 made it go into gear faster, but it didnt wake up until i tuned it and raised shift points and line pressure. with the stock open diff with 3.27 it would bark 2nd good and grab third as well.even if your going to redo it go ahead and mod it change the fluid and if your feeling rambunctious put a tranny cooler in they're cheap, easy to install keep tranny cooler thus improving life .as for the springs i couldnt tell you whats in there but with my tuner i can set for race, which really bangs hard butnot for everyday traffic driving when you let off the gas it drops into gear hard, but if your atwot it will kick the car sideways. then theres 'hard setting' still a little rough for everyday driving, 'firm' which is where i kept it for everyday driving, 'mild' which will still chirp the tires at wot, and stock.
 
One thing to remember also, especially the modified Mark8 guys, is once you put a set of drag radials on the car all that exerted force shifting into the gears and spinning the tires is now going to make a big hit straight to your driveline because you won't be spinning anymore. It's up to you how hard of a hit you want your driveline to take when you are at the track. I'm nervous enough as it is when I am warming up the drag radials at the track and they get that first dead hook and you get slammed in the back of the head. There is a reason why some choose to leave the spring in. It gets to a point where I don't think that shifting any nastier is accomplishing much more than just accelerating the wear of driveline components.
 
$100 ?!? Wow! I paid less than $10 for the gaskets from my local Ford dealer and got the accumulators for about $10 (that's both of them) and a filter for about $5 from here: http://transpartsdirect.com/model_s..._id=AOD/AODE, 4R70E/W, 4R75E/W&sort=2a&page=1
I don't remember how much the springs were, but I think it was less than $25 from the dealership.

I'm pretty sure everything cost my about $50 in parts.
Mercon V fluid (13 quarts) was about $40 with discount code from Advanced

It was like $100 for all parts AND the fluid for me. I also got a new late-model dimple style pan from a friend for free!
 
$100 ?!? Wow! I paid less than $10 for the gaskets from my local Ford dealer and got the accumulators for about $10 (that's both of them) and a filter for about $5 from here: http://transpartsdirect.com/model_s..._id=AOD/AODE, 4R70E/W, 4R75E/W&sort=2a&page=1
I don't remember how much the springs were, but I think it was less than $25 from the dealership.

I'm pretty sure everything cost my about $50 in parts.
Mercon V fluid (13 quarts) was about $40 with discount code from Advanced

It was like $100 for all parts AND the fluid for me. I also got a new late-model dimple style pan from a friend for free!



Of course aftermarket sources are going to be cheaper. At the time i was on Maui and dealer was cheaper.
 
the jmod or any valvebody improvement kit works fine. if you want practice and want to get your hands dirty im all for trying to understand more about how different things work.all things considered the j mod on my 98 made it go into gear faster, but it didnt wake up until i tuned it and raised shift points and line pressure. with the stock open diff with 3.27 it would bark 2nd good and grab third as well.even if your going to redo it go ahead and mod it change the fluid and if your feeling rambunctious put a tranny cooler in they're cheap, easy to install keep tranny cooler thus improving life .as for the springs i couldnt tell you whats in there but with my tuner i can set for race, which really bangs hard butnot for everyday traffic driving when you let off the gas it drops into gear hard, but if your atwot it will kick the car sideways. then theres 'hard setting' still a little rough for everyday driving, 'firm' which is where i kept it for everyday driving, 'mild' which will still chirp the tires at wot, and stock.

what tuner are you running? i would like to raise shiftpoints on mine as well
 
mark8smine said:
should i leave it out or what then? others are saying not to...
If you plan on getting a chip for the car, then put the springs in. If you plan on leaving it stock, leave out the 2-3 spring. There's only one spring on the 2-3 accumulator. None of my cars have a chip, and I've left the 2-3 spring out on all of them. The 2-3 shift is perfect without the spring.

I've left both springs in for the 1-2 accumulator on all my cars. My 93 will still bark the tires from 1-2 if I get into it from a standing start.

mark8smine said:
what did that cost?
I honestly don't remember. On each one of my cars, the JMOD has been part of a bigger project. I've also replaced the accumulator pistons, upgraded the trans pan to one with a deeper sump and a drain plug and added an external transmission cooler.
 
FWIW, the '98 transmissions break the lower 1-2 spring also. The last two '98's that I've done (including my car) both had broken lower springs.

HPIM3693.jpg
 

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