Timing a 3.0 ls yr 2000

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biohazard_99

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I have a bad rod on the number 6 cylinder.

I keep finding multiple timing marks and key locations in the diagrams I look at. None match what my motor is currently at. I've read to have the Keyway at 3 9 11 and even 1 o clock.

I'm hoping someone can point me to the how to on a 2000 v6 lincoln ls, preferably a true- tested method.

The taurus ones are different as are the vvt directions. So I'm assuming it has to be a 2000-2001 before the timing gear change.

Thanks in advance. Ken
 
biohazard_99 said:
I have a bad rod on the number 6 cylinder.

I keep finding multiple timing marks and key locations in the diagrams I look at. None match what my motor is currently at. I've read to have the Keyway at 3 9 11 and even 1 o clock.

I'm hoping someone can point me to the how to on a 2000 v6 lincoln ls, preferably a true- tested method.

The taurus ones are different as are the vvt directions. So I'm assuming it has to be a 2000-2001 before the timing gear change.

Thanks in advance. Ken
Click to expand...

Not exactly sure what you're asking... Do you have a LS specific service CD? They are available all over eBay. I wouldn't trust Chilton's or Haynes for the information I think you are requesting. I know the Duratech in the Taurus/Sable is essentially the same as the 3.0L in the LS, but I'm unaware of the differences. IMHO, your best bet is a service CD or a subscription to Alldata.
 
Ls4me, thanks for the reply. I'm using a taurus block as a replacement. There are a million differences motor to motor,especially when considering year to year on top of that. once the heads and stuff are off, it comes down to a freeze plug. The coolant passage is on the rear of the taurus block near the water pump. Just move the front freeze plug to the rear for the lincoln and it LOOKS good to go.

I have all data..

I have seen and read many sets of directions. None of said directions consistent enough for me to use.

I googled on my cell before looking on the laptop at all data.

I'm looking for instructions that were used successfully..let's face it, manuals can be wrong. Haha or read wrong.

I also read there is a location were Both chains can be put on at the same time...and said poster, he owned a jaguar cursing the manuals. I don't wanna risk it. Interference motor and all.
 
I went to get a freeze plug. Manual list all freeze plugs at 1.5 in. Mine was 35mm. I don't trust a manual on these v6s. They are NOT accurate. Can someone please chime in on this.
 
If you're rebuilding the LS V6 with a Taurus block you're in uncharted territory! Why would you go this route instead of just getting an LS block??
 
Identical part number..easy to crossreferance...i just looked up interchange. The issue isn't the block, it's timing. I was just informing....a taurus bottom end is the same, and doesn't have the stinking lincoln price tag. Ignore the taurus part. The freeze plug Listed as 1.5 in for Both motors via manual and even at autozone, I can't rely on them for timing ...ls4me...have you timed an early v6 before?

Seriously guys....All I'm asking for is the timing marks for the left chain and the right chain for a pre vvt lincoln ls v6 that you have used.

Ls...I appreciate the response.

Thanks ken

Ps...If this is really uncharted, should I post all my findings? I got a new motor all in all for a few hundred. All rebuilt gaskets etc. I would of paid that for a used turd with 150k. The taurus motor was readily available...many to chose from...I got the whole motor for 70$ out of a wreck, and someone bought the trans so I didn't even have to pull it :)

I would have this timing problem either way too.
 
I know that you don't want to hear from me...
They're not marked. There's a procedure in the gen I service manual to count links, make marks on the chains, get everything in the correct place...
 
I hold no grudges.

That was actually the conclusion I was coming to.

I did the way I was supposed to when I removed it then right?

Put crank key way at 9. Counted links. Marked cam pulleys and chain, noted cam lob locations for added measures.

I did read multiple crank key locations in multiple manuals. I went with the one with no cylinder at tdc. Doing that seemed to be the safest way.

I'll follow the manual during reinstall, then double check off my own marks.

I feel so much better hearing there is no marks. You guys are super knowledgeable but lose topic easily. Thanks Joe.
 
I'm about to take head off a 2000 V6 and have been reading and rereading the timing section of the manual. I can see your reluctance to rely on the manual. The one I just bought has bent valves in number 4 cylinder. From under the valve cover these four valves will open but do not close all the way. I sent a cheap chinese boroscope down the plug hole and I can see the valves are unseated when the cam has them closed (with a large clearance between the tappet and the cam). Not sure what happened, other than the hydraulic fan caused an over heat and this was the result. Head will likely be removed in April or May (after ski season). Once I see if there is other damage I'll begin the rebuild. Post your findings.
 
I grabbed a used V6 from a MA junk yard last June for $400. That thing runs mint. Had to transfer all of my sensors, etc, injectors, COPs, etc but she runs great and really restored some thrust (lol) compared to the 276K original engine. When I looked at the fact that I needed head gaskets or worse, had a cracked head, it quickly became a much more expensive job than changing the engine (at home). Tearing the heads off these is so involved with the timing chain and all the ancillary equipment removal, it was a no-brainer to me. Has anyone seen this in the factory service manual? I have one but need to boot an old Window XP box to read it. If it makes sense, I can probably get it running and try to extract the procedure.
 
I've gone back and forth on it. The shop manual recommends (in the head removal section) removing the oil pan (raise engine, remove front suspension and unbolt and lower the front sub-frame) is needed to take off the timing cover. But the manual also says (in the engine disassembly section) that the timing cover can be removed before removing the oil pan. As for accessories I'm going to remove the front bolt from the alternator and the two front bolts from the ac compressor leaving the other bolts in place when removing the timing cover. If I can get a clear idea (beyond what's in the shop manual) of the timing procedure needed to install the heads without damaging the new valves I'd be happier.

The car only has 63,000 miles so I'll do engine disassembly and depending on the damage found decide if I'm going buy parts to put it back together or find a junkyard engine. I'm assuming the manual trans and the automatic have the same basic engine otherwise I'll never find a junk yard engine. Once complete this one will replace my rusting put reliable 190,000 mile model.

I will keep a thread going on my progress once I start (April or May).
 
If you (Pragmatic) have a manual, I can tell you that the automatic engine works in the manual. The one difference is lack of oil cooler on the automatic, but you can unbolt the oil cooler from an old engine and move it to the new one. The oil cooler is sort of part of the engine mounting bracket, and has a huge O ring that is needed to seal the banjo-style (flow through) bolt that is one of 3 that hold that oil cooler part to the engine. Once I saw this upon removal of the oil cooler/mounting bracket, and realized that the engine would have to be at least partially removed (or K frame, et al) I said F it, I am not going to risk this thing leaking, I don't have a real need for an oil cooler, and left the thing the way I bought it. All I had to do differently was to buy an non-oil cooler type lower radiator hose. The one possible other difference was the spacer plate on the rear of the block may have been different between automatic and standard ttrans.
 
Don't have to remove oil pan to do timing.

Yeah...I found a sh*t ton wrong. I'm going with a used motor.

I got tons of parts now lol. I get machine shop labor dirt cheap. I'm going to give him a call and see if he is busy, I doubt he wants a basket case. I got leaky valves and I'm not dealing with that at home garage. I part out vehicles on ebay and I haven't done anything all week cause I been working on this.

I'd also like to ad...I can buy a whole ls for the price of a motor. Hurts my feelings putting more into it than I could get a running one for. I keep telling myself...5 speed..rare...it's worth it...I hope. I bought it this way so I have no idea how one performs.

Can't put a price on knowledge

With the price of a taurus motor, I could sell a cam and double the money I put out Lmao. And I have a spare assembled block.
 
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