Timing Chain Rattle at Startup

RCodePaul

RCodePaul

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I have exactly what this Jag owner describes. Anyone else do a secondary tensioner replacement in 2 hours? I see lots of "replace the whole shebang" 40 hours labor posts when I searched, but am thinking that is not in the cards right now. Thanks in advance.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=954555

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BAD NOISE! (Tic/Rattle)
2000 S Type with 140K Miles 4.0
Noticed a bad rattle noise on L-bank (Cylinders 1-4).
Removed valve cover and found a bad secondary Cam tensioner.
CAUTION - If Cam chain broke,I would be looking for a new engine.
Went with a 3rd generation Cam tensioner (metal),because others were designed bad.
$90 + 2hrs of work.
See http://www.jagservice.net/jaguar_v8_...tensioners.htm?

I only replaced the left bank(1-4)
 
My chain broke and I just fixed my motor. Why put a used motor back in with the potential for the timing assembly to be bad in it? It didn't take me 40 hours to do the whole thing and I had to pull a head too. It should take less than 20 hours to replace just the timing parts. Plus the LS has a pretty strong bottom end so you shouldn't have problems with it in the future (unless you rev high ALL the time or spray nitrous a lot.
 
I used parts from Christopher's - good deal all around.
I think 2 hours is still pretty fast. Maybe it could go that quick for the passenger side, but certainly not for the driver's.
I'd set aside a whole day for problems.
 
I did mine with about an hour and a half actual work each side. Found the drivers side easier surprisingly.
 
Rattle at startup

I will give it a shot this week. Christopher's sent the kit last week but at this point the friggin' usps slow boat has only made it to IL from Jersey. So God only knows when that sh*t will finally get to the left coast. Jeebus. Shoulda paid the $30 for a real shipping company.
 
Ah, well...

JDS353 said:
just a hint use a oil filter with a check valve in it.jds
Click to expand...

Thanks but I've used the same brand of oil filter for years (with a check valve) and this problem cropped up just now. Wouldn't think any LS oil filter would be without a check valve. All I've heard is claims of one material being superior to another for the check valve itself, Wix and FoMoCo over Fram blah blah blah.
 
just trying to help those that take what the local oreales or nozone counter guy or gal throws up on the counter as cheaply. it does make a differance.thanks.
 
Son of a....

RCodePaul said:
I will give it a shot this week. Christopher's sent the kit last week but at this point the friggin' usps slow boat has only made it to IL from Jersey. So God only knows when that sh*t will finally get to the left coast. Jeebus. Shoulda paid the $30 for a real shipping company.
Click to expand...

Thought I'd replace both upper tensioners since they seem to be a weak link. Description of the issue was exactly like that Jag dude's description and it even sounded like right (passenger) side so I replaced it first. Did that last night, same effing startup rattle this morning. Deep breath. Hoping it's the driver's side (next.)
(Crosses fingers.)
If it's the main chain tensioner it may accidentally blow up like on the Godfather.
 
RCodePaul said:
Thought I'd replace both upper tensioners since they seem to be a weak link. Description of the issue was exactly like that Jag dude's description and it even sounded like right (passenger) side so I replaced it first. Did that last night, same effing startup rattle this morning. Deep breath. Hoping it's the driver's side (next.)
(Crosses fingers.)
If it's the main chain tensioner it may accidentally blow up like on the Godfather.
Click to expand...


Did you ever get to the drivers side yet? I have this exact problem and I want to know if this worked before I go spend 1200 getting the whole thing done.
 
Your chain might still be a bit stretched. I just did mine a few weeks back and consider myself lucky mine didn't.. a new chain is 60 from them or 100 for both. And they use master links so you don't have to remove the sprockets. Just cut the old chain off.
 
Not exactly

rwurst918 said:
Did you ever get to the drivers side yet? I have this exact problem and I want to know if this worked before I go spend 1200 getting the whole thing done.
Click to expand...

Yes, did the DS and still have the same noise. Buddy searched the web and sent this-
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found a couple of threads from guys that had the same exact problem as yours. Only rattles for a second, then grabs oil pressure & it's silent. These guys then switched to an original Motorcraft FL-218 & bingo... problem solved ! They go on to say that the drainback valve is located in a different position in the other filters. In the bottom as opposed to top. They all say that the Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator. One guy noticed that his original Motorcraft filter, which he removed himself , had a different number & shape of inlet holes than the replacement OEM filter. Also, one of the holes in the original was larger in diameter than the others ? He then went to the Ford service center & spoke with the serv. mgr., showed him both filters & he was dumb founded. Not all filters are alike.
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So I bought a Motorcraft, changed it last night and still have the same rattle.

It only does it for a second, won't do it if I pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it for 15 secs (to build oil pressure) then replace fuse and start. Also won't do it if I've only stopped for a short while, like less than an hour.

???
 
Totally Appreciate it

JDS353 said:
just trying to help those that take what the local oreales or nozone counter guy or gal throws up on the counter as cheaply. it does make a differance.thanks.
Click to expand...

I agree. Web search showed credence to your point. Actually was hoping the Motorcraft would have solved it. Might try a dealer (gasp!) filter next...
 
A filter change will only mask the problem. It's not going to change the fact the tensioners NEED to be replaced.
 
RCodePaul said:
I agree. Web search showed credence to your point. Actually was hoping the Motorcraft would have solved it. Might try a dealer (gasp!) filter next...
Click to expand...

I have tried all different types of oil filters to try and fix this problem. I believe it was six different types including motorcraft, wix, bosch, fram, and napa. It does not work for what our problem is.

It probably is going to be all of the secondary tensioners or a guide that is the culprit. Hopefully it is just the tensioners.
 
How many miles are you guys noticing the start up noise at? My '03 has just over 60k on it and I just started noticing an noise at start up.
 
Well, I think I have about 8k miles before my extended warranty expires!
 
rwurst918 said:
I have tried all different types of oil filters to try and fix this problem. I believe it was six different types including motorcraft, wix, bosch, fram, and napa. It does not work for what our problem is.

It probably is going to be all of the secondary tensioners or a guide that is the culprit. Hopefully it is just the tensioners.
Click to expand...

Replaced both secondary TC tensioners and chains with the kit from Christopher's and no change at all. Only after that did i eff with the filter.
 
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