Torque Converter and 4.10 Gears being installed

94m5 said:
Not only that, but you don't need it, it would look GAY.......well......I guess thats not so bad because it is your car.
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So is running the wrong offset and having them stick out past the lip.:eek: Hint, Hint.

I did that on my 231 V6 Oldsmobile Starfire in high school and I am still damaged from that experience. Only thing that saved me was the incredibly wicked smoke job I could do with my 4 speed and a robust clutch. That car laid rubber like no other. Especially with a little bleach on the road.

Ah, the good old days! You young'ns have no clue as to how good it used to be.
 
Well, I was kidding about the Rims & tires - They are going on my mechanic's 7 sec car.

What Blue Stut Rod Bushings?
 
Godfather, I think he was talking about this.

DSC02085.JPG
 
Well, at least I have given you something to REALLY ponder. :)

Your car is coming out nice. I hope to have my Gen2 at that level soon enough.

BTW, try using a rotor with less drilled holes in them. I noticed slightly more braking power under all conditions with rotors that had less and smaller holes. Slots work GREAT too.

Don't be afraid to glop on the caliper paint either. It will form a nice hard shell that will last a long time. Just let it dry for 24 hours and you could drop a bomb on it.
 
Dominus said:
Well, at least I have given you something to REALLY ponder. :)

Your car is coming out nice. I hope to have my Gen2 at that level soon enough.

BTW, try using a rotor with less drilled holes in them. I noticed slightly more braking power under all conditions with rotors that had less and smaller holes. Slots work GREAT too.

Don't be afraid to glop on the caliper paint either. It will form a nice hard shell that will last a long time. Just let it dry for 24 hours and you could drop a bomb on it.
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Yeah, when I need new rotors, im changing them (backs too)

Thats how I painted them - I put several coats on, letting it dry inbetween, and it has sat for 36 hours at this point.
 
Drilled/slotted rotors don't stop any better than blanks. But they do, however, have a huge tendency to crack. They are just there for bling factor.

Are those holes even chamfered?

Paul.
 
Yes and no. I too believe the average driver won't feel or benefit from these kind of rotors and they are mostly for looks. However I do believe in a track/road coarse type condition they breath better and therefore stop better over the duration. Less brake fade after repeated hard stops. Just like all performance mods, there not going to last as long and have draw backs. Brake pad wear, cracking, etc.

I do believe they are probably proven many times over to out perform stockers in performance braking situation.

But what do I know about anything.
 
I've felt the difference between slotted/drilled and blanks. Especially when it is wet out. Never had any cracking either. All depends on the driver. I won't lie and pretend I don't drive my car hard, but these are big barges.
 
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