Traction Control light keeps flashing

So now whenever I start up the advanced trac light is off, but after I drive a lil bit it comes back on and stays solid, any idea what's causing this? I did the service procedures again and to make sure I was on level ground
 
BrendanMc said:
So now whenever I start up the advanced trac light is off, but after I drive a lil bit it comes back on and stays solid, any idea what's causing this? I did the service procedures again and to make sure I was on level ground
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It should be storing code(s) that will help point in the right direction.
 
BrendanMc said:
Oh that's what I mean it's the sliding car symbol that's flashing, didn't know there was a difference. No the ABS module hasn't been replaced. I'll try and look into calibrating it I think I can do it with forscan right? The bad AC recirc sounds like why my driver's side is cold and passenger is hot..

Also stalled yesterday when coming to a low idle that bcuz of the open tuning valve?
Thank u for helping
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Stalls can happen when your intake system starts to get fouled up... From the throttlebody into the heads ... I just finished up yanking mine and cleaning it like a surgeon with 9 inch curved needle nose, parts carb and choke cleaner, and shop towels took me about 6 hours it was filthy... Air idler and vacuum leaks from those pesky rubber grommets on top of the intake manifold... All of those will effect preformance, mpg, and longevity of the vehicle. Not to mention a dirty engine holds heat longer.... Dirt makes for great insulation... Take a weekend and strip the upper end down and clean it up real good... Should run better... If your heads look as dirty as mine from downstream of injector( this why premium gas and frequent oil changes are a must...) Then injector cleaner will do. However, from your throttle body back to the injectors its all scrubby dub dub.... Your egr when you get to it could have a chunk of coal in it that will need to be removed or just replaced, 0² sensors reading okay? If the upper looks like this the exhaust system (cats) could be just as filled with krud.

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Buttload said:
Stalls can happen when your intake system starts to get fouled up... From the throttlebody into the heads ... I just finished up yanking mine and cleaning it like a surgeon with 9 inch curved needle nose, parts carb and choke cleaner, and shop towels took me about 6 hours it was filthy... Air idler and vacuum leaks from those pesky rubber grommets on top of the intake manifold... All of those will effect preformance, mpg, and longevity of the vehicle. Not to mention a dirty engine holds heat longer.... Dirt makes for great insulation... Take a weekend and strip the upper end down and clean it up real good... Should run better... If your heads look as dirty as mine from downstream of injector( this why premium gas and frequent oil changes are a must...) Then injector cleaner will do. However, from your throttle body back to the injectors its all scrubby dub dub.... Your egr when you get to it could have a chunk of coal in it that will need to be removed or just replaced, 0² sensors reading okay? If the upper looks like this the exhaust system (cats) could be just as filled with krud.

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Every thing was cleaned about 5 years ago, new fuel injectors too.. just had new cats put in and O2 sensors are fine, no vacuum leaks detected.. still haven't diagnosed the intake manifold flap, hoping this is the cause of the complete loss of power and loud popping back fire noise I'm hearing when trying to accelerate after slowing down, and maybe even the stalling?
 
Pcv exhaust oil vapor into you intake... It fills with oil... Once it fills you have less room for air... Computer thinks it has so much space when in fact oil is taking up space in the bottom of the plenum .. like breathing when sick and congested you breath but still quickly run out of breath...
 
5 years is a long time, these cars i hear have issues with the plastic like most European design (bmw) due to high heat from crammed engine bays it gets crumbly and brittle. So five years is what 10 oil changes ago at least... That build up i have was 120k miles in the making... So 10k mile oil changes every six months at five years 100k miles what my car has +/-... So i would expect it to look like mine did last weekend....
 
To solve the oil mist collecting in the intake manifold is to place a catch can in the vent tubes on the valve covers. The hydraulic resevoir from the Gen 1 LS has served as a catch can equipped with aluminum air line quick disconnects for easy emptying.. A re-routing of the oem venting is in order. When i get home ill provide photos of what to do.
 
Buttload said:
Well carbon build up causes pre ignition with cheap fuel. You do use full synthetic oil and good gas?
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Conventional oil and good gas is also mine is a 05 v6, I put a cold air intake in it and new cats then started noticing the loss of acceleration after slowing down and popping noise.. most of the time it's a flawless acceleration from a dead stop that's why I'm thinking it's that flap, hopefully get it checked out.. maybe the extra air it's getting from the intake damaged my old one?
 
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joegr said:
It should be storing code(s) that will help point in the right direction.
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Still saying the same thing, going to have the wiring looked at and the valve replaced hoping that fixes it. Any chance by installing a cold air intake could have broken my old one seeing more air is being pulled through it?

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Everythings in the same position. Maybe it just went after time, it is plastic after all.. I mean what else could be causing the popping/mis fire noise?
 
Maybe the air intake temperature sensor and mass air flow sensor not being in the cold air intake? Not seen the set up, but puter uses that information to control throttle body and injectors based off throttle position...
And how on earth would that cause an electrical problem with the actuator or the circuit that controls it?
 
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