Transmission Error

JINT0NIC

JINT0NIC

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Guys, how bad is P0735 code? (Incorrect Ratio for Fifth Gear Conditions)

I've been reading some threads about it, some end with only spring replacing,
some with solenoid or both. Step further is valve body replace.
Others end up with rebuild. Clutch, servo, disks...
Last one is tranny swap.

Symptoms:

- "E" appears, 5th gear shuts off (4th remaining). Clears by engine restart.
(Thats basically P0735, E appears on highway, gear drop to 4, RPM up)

- 3rd Gear slip on acceleratin from zero.
(Noticed that gear slips only on acceleration on this gear, D5,D4,2,1 are ok.)
(Low,Bad fluid?)

- Sometimes harsh engaging from P to R, and R to D car jerking.
(From reading forums, this looks like solenoid problem)

-------------------

Could actually low, or bad oil cause this? Maybe slipping?
Condition and level, havent been checked yet, so I think it should be first step + filter (probably gasket). Something DIY.

Also theres EGR DTC 0401. Needs attention, but I think unrelated.
Correct me, if I am wrong.

Well, appreciate any ideas on this subject. I tried to keep it short.
And we speak about 00LSV6 with auto transmission.

Thanks.
 
I thought it was going to have a manual.. :p

Anyways, I would take it to a shop because the fluid level is a b!tch to check and add on this car. Plus a shop could smell and visually inspect to tell you if there is clutch wear and whatnot..

Just be sure to take it to a trusted shop.. Dropping the pan gets a little bit, but a flush will get about 99% of it..
 
Did a fluid exchange myself a few weeks ago. Not hard, but plenty messy. If you've done one before, it's all the same. IIRC, the upper tube on the tranny is the cooler feed. I used a cheap fluid transfer pump from Sears to pump the fluid into the access port on the tailhousing. The pump didn't like pumping ATF. :)
Add plenty of hose to the cooler lines when you pull them off. I made a hell of a mess because the fluid has a lot more pressure than I expected. Fluid will come out of the cooler and the hose.
I used 14qts to get all the hot fluid out.
 
Thanks guys for input,

Well, took it to a tranny shop. They confirmed P0735 error. While driving, technician noticed that 5th gear sometimes slips, but then comes back being fine. So they couldn't say what actually is wrong, and told me that I can leave the car, and maybe they will find out whats wrong. Well.

Now that permanent gear slip makes me think its some kind of wire contact issue.
Maybe someone had this problem?

Regards.
 
JINT0NIC said:
Thanks guys for input,

Well, took it to a tranny shop. They confirmed P0735 error. While driving, technician noticed that 5th gear sometimes slips, but then comes back being fine. So they couldn't say what actually is wrong, and told me that I can leave the car, and maybe they will find out whats wrong. Well.

Now that permanent gear slip makes me think its some kind of wire contact issue.
Maybe someone had this problem?

Regards.
Click to expand...

I replaced my solenoid about a month ago with the exact same symptoms except for the 5th gear slip. Mine had trouble finding fifth gear unless in sst mode. I found the solenoid for about 295. I changed out the solenoid myself and found that it wasn't too hard to do. I also changed out the filter and the fluid. Filling the trans was the hardest part. I actually used a brake line fitting and 1/2 inch tubing. Took about five quarts. The tranny doesn't slip and no harsh engagements. If you are worried about the fifth gear thing being the spring, just change it out yourself. The spring is actually very cheap and very easy to replace. Good Luck.
 
woohoo, just got this exact problem over the weekend :D

at the shop now, gonna find out more info tomorrow...
 
I had the something similar happen to me a couple months ago, except mine will skip 2nd gear and go neutral until I get off the acceleration. Then it engages hard into 2nd and gives me an "E" for transmission. I never got a "Check Engine" light or any pending codes. I replace the solenoid (with a rebuilt one) and fluid/filter for sh!#ts and giggles. It still does it, but not as often and I don't get a "E" light. I think the rebuilt I bought was not 100% perfect. I currently have 120,000 miles on my 2000 LS/V8.
 
I was having the same problem with slipping gears. I got the E a few times also. The problem was the Silinoid pack. There is a TSB (Tecnical Service Buliten) on the subject. The mercon V is hard on the silinoids and as a result, you'll get hard shifting, slipping and ultimitly transmission failure. The solution in the TSB was an additive. It's reduces the brake down of the electronic components. Ford will not cover the replacement of the damaged components. I went to the drealer to get the parts I needed to replace and made mention of the TSB and asked for the additive. They said they didn't know what I was talking about. I even printed it out and went back. I knew it was a gamble, but I found an additive that's made for transmissions by Luccas. Ignoring all the warnings in the factory mannuals, I put the additive in the oil. Just less than 1/2 an QT. I have been using it for 2 years and I've put over 50,000 miles on my transmission. I'll look around to see if I can find the TSB again.
 
Here the link. In the TSB is mentions the faulty reverse as a symptom but the other solenoids can be effected as well.
The Solenoid body assembly is an assembly of all six solenoids. This makes them easy to replace but expencivebecause you have to replace them all. The solenoid body cost me 375.00 at the dealer and was very easy to replace. took about a hour. I hope this helps.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/timnoll/2008-12-01_220314_tsb05-21-08.pdf
 
My understanding (which may be incorrect) was that there was an issue with the fluid used by the factory from 2003 to 2004 not meeting the specification, and that the additive was to correct that. The additive should not be needed on any post 2004 car, or with any new fluid replacement.
 
To repair my problem, should I get another solenoid body? Buy a new one instead of a rebuilt one and add the additive?
 
Ken said:
To repair my problem, should I get another solenoid body? Buy a new one instead of a rebuilt one and add the additive?
Click to expand...

Mine was new and only cost me 292 exactly. I have not put in the additive because it has been added to my car already but the solenoid failed anyways. I just hit 75,000 and i dont think that i will have the car for another 75000. Not saying that i would pass off a bad car, but i believe the solenoid would fail regardless if the additive was put in. It is easy to put in. A lift would have been much easier to use though.
 
Welcome to my world lol had the same issue rebuilt mine for 1400 an still having problems!! Just dropped it off at tasca so we will see what the blinking check engine light means
 
Isurf said:
Welcome to my world lol had the same issue rebuilt mine for 1400 an still having problems!! Just dropped it off at tasca so we will see what the blinking check engine light means
Click to expand...

A blinking check engine light always means misfire. Nine times out of ten it is because of one or more bad coils.
 
joegr said:
My understanding (which may be incorrect) was that there was an issue with the fluid used by the factory from 2003 to 2004 not meeting the specification, and that the additive was to correct that. The additive should not be needed on any post 2004 car, or with any new fluid replacement.
Click to expand...

That makes sence. That would explain why I had so much trouble finding it.
 
Would like to make some conclusions on this problem. Maybe someone will find this helpful.

Installs and parts that fixed the problem: 5r55n valve body rebuild kit install, new valve body gasket, new transmission filter and transmission fluid replacement (carefully check fluid level after adding ).

Regards.
 
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