So the shop tells me my transmission is toast, looking to buy a used one and swap it out. I believe all 2002 models used the 5R55N (but correct me if I'm wrong). However, when I look online for 5R55N granny's online, I see two variations, one is the 1W4P-AA and the other is 2W4P-AA. How do I know which one is correct for my car? I've read some articles saying they changed from one to the other part of the way through the year, how do I know for sure which one I need, don't want to be wrong and be stuck with a tranny that won't work. Is there a way to know without dropping it? My car has a manf date of 04/02 if that helps figure it out.
Transmission model # for 2002 LS V8
- Thread starter bfoley78
- Start date
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My quick search shows the 1W4P-AA as being for a Thunderbird, the 2W4P-AA as for the LS. A search of EBay indicates either is for the LS. Did all models have Trans Cooling? I'd almost venture the difference is strictly in the year of manufacture. If you're replacing your transmission with a used one, lowest miles and best warranty are you keys.
When I price a rebuilt unit from AutoZone (for my '02 V6), I get two choices at two prices with two different core charges but no explanation.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
What is the trans doing that makes them think it's toast? I ask because the PCM on the LS is known to go bad, which makes the transmission act like it's shot.
When put in automatic mode, it goes nowhere, just revs. I put it in select shift and it will shift ok. There is a pause between 2 and 3 that if I don't let off will allow it to rev up and then slam into 3rd. Once I get up to fifth, I can slide it back over to auto mode and it runs fine when it's already up to speed. But then if you stop and try to take off again, it will just rev freely again. Reverse did work for a while, but then it started doing the same thing as auto mode, just revs freely and can't move the car. My thoughts were if I can shift it manually, it's something electronic confusing the car not allowing it to shift in auto mode, but the shop says otherwise.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
So the place that says it's toast didn't do any disassembly to be able to say it was impractical to repair?
It's possible that this is all just a problem with the PCM. If so replacing the transmission won't help.
It's possible that this is just a bad solenoid assembly. If so, it would be much cheaper to replace the assembly than the transmission.
It's possible that your servo bores are worn out. If so, it's still likely to be cheaper to rebuild the transmission with sleeves inserted for the bores.
On the other hand, it's possible that one of the above problems was your initial failure, but it has caused major damage of the transmission and it does need to be replaced. The thing is, you can't just guess at it based on the symptoms. You have to do a little hands-on diagnosis. I wouldn't trust anyone that didn't at least drop the pan and have a look.
It's possible that this is all just a problem with the PCM. If so replacing the transmission won't help.
It's possible that this is just a bad solenoid assembly. If so, it would be much cheaper to replace the assembly than the transmission.
It's possible that your servo bores are worn out. If so, it's still likely to be cheaper to rebuild the transmission with sleeves inserted for the bores.
On the other hand, it's possible that one of the above problems was your initial failure, but it has caused major damage of the transmission and it does need to be replaced. The thing is, you can't just guess at it based on the symptoms. You have to do a little hands-on diagnosis. I wouldn't trust anyone that didn't at least drop the pan and have a look.
I called the ford dealer today and they told me the correct one was the 2W4P-AA so I am going to try to find one of them with under 100K and try to swap it out this weekend.
