Transmission rebuild price

All automatics are not the same. This isn't a 70s muscle car transmission. It's a computer controlled transmission with lots of parts to screw up.

All the more reason to take it to someone who specializes in the 5R, not the dealer. Having the dealer put in a new transmission is starting fresh...with all the same shortcomings of a stock transmission. Dealers are not magical, they have to work on all types of cars all day just like any other shop. Taking what you have to a reputable, knowledgeable 5R transmission guy will get all of the weaknesses addressed to give you a bulletproof transmission for less than the cost of the dealer, done by someone who probably does more 5R work in a month than a dealer does in a year.
 
Err.. The debate weather to go dealership or local transmission shop is pretty interesting, but it's getting kind of off topic. Under the video I had asked what are some factors that can cause the slow acceleration and high RPM's?
 
1. Who said the shop he went to is reputable?

2. Why do you feel the trans is a dealer-only situation? It's an automatic transmission. It's not some rare tech that only special super duper Ford certified mechanics can work on.

1. I would assume that he wasn't going to AAMCO or Joe's Transmission And Bait. People seek out reputable shops, not disreputable shops.

2. Unless he can install a unit himself, having a crate trans installed by the dealer is the quickest, simplest way to solve the issue. While there are people out there that specialize in them, know them intimately, probably even come up with ways to solve problems and make them bulletproof, is there one of these shops in every town? Unlikely. I live in Tulsa and had to get my bulletproof 4L80E for my truck from a guy in Illinois who is known to be reputable and is known to be able to build transmissions that can handle 1200+HP engines all day long. There's nobody in Tulsa who can do this, and Tulsa's not a small town.

Err.. The debate weather to go dealership or local transmission shop is pretty interesting, but it's getting kind of off topic. Under the video I had asked what are some factors that can cause the slow acceleration and high RPM's?

You might crawl under the car and make sure there's no pinched wiring harnesses, and that all sensors are plugged in. I can see a pissed off shop not paying attention to whether or not the wiring harness is clear when slamming the trans against the engine block, and not being too diligent about making sure everything is plugged in. When the computer gets defective inputs, or when the inputs are missing, the computer will usually go to a failsafe mode that makes the car lose power and act strange. The idea is to save what's left, and make you want to get it in to the dealer for repairs as quickly as possible. Part is to make money for them, but part is to keep the car from destroying itself to the point that you don't bother with fixing it.
 
Err.. The debate weather to go dealership or local transmission shop is pretty interesting, but it's getting kind of off topic. Under the video I had asked what are some factors that can cause the slow acceleration and high RPM's?

Well, the answer there is that there are all sorts of transmission faults that will cause those symptoms. It can't be diagnosed from those symptoms alone. Some hands on testing is required. This is further complicated by the fact that someone has messed with it. (The list of things that it could be is very much larger than if it just got this way on its own.)
 
This is further complicated by the fact that someone has messed with it. (The list of things that it could be is very much larger than if it just got this way on its own.)

And this is the main reason behind the suggestion that you just visit the dealer and have them slap in a service replacement unit. I think this will be the quickest, cheapest way to put this all behind the op. Trying to chase the issue down will likely wind up costing more than a replacement unit will, and the transmission will still be the same worn unit.
 
Ok guys, so the stalling seems to be getting worse. Due to alternate side parking rules here in Brooklyn, NY, I have to move my car to the opposite side of the street. The car moves and such, but it begins to vibrate really harshly and then stalls out. I had to restart the car 3 times just to get it parked correctly. On one occasion the car did begin to shake as if it was going to stall, but then it smoothed itself out. If the car is in park, I can rev the car and it wont stall. Am I experiencing a vaccume leak here? Could this be the torque converter entering lockup too early causing the stalling? Input on this is really appreciated.
 

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