TSB for 2-3 Accumulator and part numbers?

gloebel

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Hi Folks

I will probably get the 1-2 Accumulator fix for my 1994 done and I think it would make sense to do the 2-3 accumulator fix at the same time.

For the 1-2 accumulator there is a TSB (97-11-11) but is there also a TSB for the 2-3 accumulator with the correct part numbers available?

I did some research for all the parts that are required but I heard that the part numbers are some times changeing. So can anyone confirme the below listed parts and numbers?

1-2 accumulator:
F7AZ-7F251-AA Updated Accumulator Piston
F4AZ-7F247-A 1-2 Cover and Seal
F75Z-7F284-AA Upper (Blue) Spring
F7AZ-7F284-BA Lower (purple) spring

2-3 accumulator:
F7AZ-7H292-AB Updated Accumulator Piston
F7AZ-7F285-AA or 1L3Z-7F285-AA Spring

Thanks and have a great day

Mathias
 
Hi Folks

I will probably get the 1-2 Accumulator fix for my 1994 done and I think it would make sense to do the 2-3 accumulator fix at the same time.

For the 1-2 accumulator there is a TSB (97-11-11) but is there also a TSB for the 2-3 accumulator with the correct part numbers available?

I did some research for all the parts that are required but I heard that the part numbers are some times changeing. So can anyone confirme the below listed parts and numbers?

1-2 accumulator:
F7AZ-7F251-AA Updated Accumulator Piston
F4AZ-7F247-A 1-2 Cover and Seal
F75Z-7F284-AA Upper (Blue) Spring
F7AZ-7F284-BA Lower (purple) spring

2-3 accumulator:
F7AZ-7H292-AB Updated Accumulator Piston
F7AZ-7F285-AA or 1L3Z-7F285-AA Spring

Thanks and have a great day

Mathias

Part #s:

[SIZE=-1]1-2 Accumulator Piston AODE (Updated molded rubber style) F7AZ-7F251-AA[/SIZE]

[SIZE=-1]2-3 Accumulator Piston AOD/AODE (Updated molded rubber style) F7AP-7H292-AA[/SIZE]

The springs were not updated. One is blue and one is purple. If you have a 94, go ahead and get the 1-2 springs. Kinda rare for the 2-3 springs to go bad and if any are bad in the 1-2, it would likely be the bottom one.

You already have the part numbers for the springs.
 
Thank you for the response.

Should I considre anything elese to get done at the same time?
To mention is that my mark is stock and I'm not planing to do any performance upgrade. I just would like my mark to run great for a long time.

Thanks

Mathias
 
When you put it back together, don't use ANY spring on the 2-3 accumulator bore - ever (there is only one spring in the 2-3 from the factory).

Ford made a variety of springs for the 1-2 accumulator ranging from weak to stiff. The blue one is a good one to use for the 1-2 (put the spring in the hole first, then the accumulator). If you want a quick, firm shift, don't put the spring in after you put the accumulator in the 1-2 bore; if you want to soften the shift slightly, put a second spring in after the accumulator (you can use the little one that came from the 2-3 or the original purple one from the 1-2 that you took out).

If you really want a SUPER FIRM 1-2 shift (like squawk the tires firm), use the Ford brown 1-2 spring (part #1L3Z-7F285-AA - came stock in trucks) with no second spring.
 
Why should I leave out the 2-3 spring?
Is there anything bad with it?
Dosn't it harm to leave it out?
Is there something from ford like a TSB which recommends this?
 
In your case, you're wanting to remain as stock as possible and no plans on any future mods, just leave it in. It makes the 2-3 shift harder without it but you're not even doing a j-mod to the separator plate and if you want the trans to last longer and you're not currently having any problems with it, it would be something to consider. It allows more fluid flow and it's recommended. Just changing accumulators isn't really going to make you feel a difference. It's good to do but no difference in the shift will be felt.

[url]http://tccoa.com/articles/tranny/shiftybusiness.html[/URL]
 
In your case, you're wanting to remain as stock as possible and no plans on any future mods, just leave it in. It makes the 2-3 shift harder without it but you're not even doing a j-mod to the separator plate and if you want the trans to last longer and you're not currently having any problems with it, it would be something to consider. It allows more fluid flow and it's recommended. Just changing accumulators isn't really going to make you feel a difference. It's good to do but no difference in the shift will be felt.

[url]http://tccoa.com/articles/tranny/shiftybusiness.html[/URL]

It just makes the 2-3 shift feel like a brand new car - hardly what I'd consider "hard".....

Hard is what happens when you leave out that second spring in the 1-2 bore. If you don't want to take advice from me, that's ok, but ask Darrin or Alan that work with transmissions for a living.....

I'm just saying. Heck, even ask Jerry who was the original designer and engineer (or part of the team - whatever) of the 4R70W - he says the same thing!
 
It just makes the 2-3 shift feel like a brand new car - hardly what I'd consider "hard".....

Hard is what happens when you leave out that second spring in the 1-2 bore. If you don't want to take advice from me, that's ok, but ask Darrin or Alan that work with transmissions for a living.....

I'm just saying. Heck, even ask Jerry who was the original designer and engineer (or part of the team - whatever) of the 4R70W - he says the same thing!

Not saying it's not good advise, just letting him know, because I can tell he is the type that probably won't even j-mod, much less be leaving springs out. He's simply trying to just update his accumulators. When I j-mod this weekend or next week, I plan on removing the 2-3 spring too but my ECU is commanding an additional 15 psi of trans fluid pressure because it is the W3Z2 and nothing but good can come of the j-mod and spring removal. All gears will be engaging with quickness.
 
Not saying it's not good advise, just letting him know, because I can tell he is the type that probably won't even j-mod, much less be leaving springs out. He's simply trying to just update his accumulators. When I j-mod this weekend or next week, I plan on removing the 2-3 spring too but my ECU is commanding an additional 15 psi of trans fluid pressure because it is the W3Z2 and nothing but good can come of the j-mod and spring removal. All gears will be engaging with quickness.

I've done the j-mod before, but I have the W3Z2 EEC in my Mark VIII and that will be a first for me, too! Let me know how you like yours and I'll let you know how mine goes. I loved the last j-mod I did - completely changed the behavior of the car!

I have the torque converter, plates, gaskets, pan, drain plug, accumulators, seals, and am waiting for a sale to save a little money on 13 quarts of Mercon V right now. I'd also like to pick up a one piece 93 drivebshaft before I pull the tranny for all this so it all gets done at the same time.
 
I've done the j-mod before, but I have the W3Z2 EEC in my Mark VIII and that will be a first for me, too! Let me know how you like yours and I'll let you know how mine goes. I loved the last j-mod I did - completely changed the behavior of the car!

I have the torque converter, plates, gaskets, pan, drain plug, accumulators, seals, and am waiting for a sale to save a little money on 13 quarts of Mercon V right now. I'd also like to pick up a one piece 93 drivebshaft before I pull the tranny for all this so it all gets done at the same time.

When I had the 98 trans setting in the garage with 64K on it, I done the j-mod on that one and swapped out all of the electrical internals so that it would work with the 94. The 98's are too simple when it comes to j-modding. The 95 is going to be a little different with the amount of holes drilled. I can't really find anything that makes it simplified like the PDF I have for the 98. I'm going to be using this as reference to do the 95.
[url]http://tccoa.com/articles/tranny/shiftybusiness.html[/URL]
I already have new accumulators and springs and the trans has zero shudder and shifts perfectly but just a little too smooth. I want some 2nd gear chirp so I'll probably take the 2-3 spring and put it in the bottom of the 1-2. I don't want it popping 2nd at half or a little less throttle. It should chirp them with ease though with over half or more throttle. I loved the 98 trans in the 94 when it hit 2nd. 3rd and 4th should engage quick but no chirping with the stock gears. That's exactly what I'm looking for.

I have the gaskets but there is a cool front coming in that I'm waiting on. Should be here within the next day or so. I don't wanna break a sweat at all when I do mine out in the garage.
 
Thank you for the answers and advice so far.

I'm reading around the net and got alot of information but in result of that I got questions.

Alright like I said my mark viii is stock and I will keep it that may in therms of performance upgrades.

All articles I read so far recommend to leave out the spring of the 2-3 accumulator. I'm a noob and don't know what happens/changes if I would do that. What changes while I'm driving?
I don't wan't my tires to chirps all the time while normal driving and shifting.

I understand now that transmission fluid cooling is essential for my transmission so I'm thinking to get a transmission cooler installed (Ford OEM) and in addition the bigger transmission pan with deep sump pocket.

I heard about the jmod and as my understanding a good transmission fluid circulation to all parts makes sense to me.
There needs to be holes drilled in the seperator plate. I just don't feel comfortable to do that. So are there updated or pre drilled seperator plates to buy?

With the JMOD what will change in therms of normal driving my car?

Thanks and regards

Mathias
 
Last edited:
Before my front pump went out (my fault for using a used radiator and not flushing it), my car was a bad mother trucker with the w3z2 and a jmod (and leaving out the spring).... with 4.10's and trac lok!

I chirped the tires on chip-tar gravel roads!
 
Chirping the tires at part throttle is not good. Do that in weather thats not so good and see where your car ends up...
 
Thank you for the answers and advice so far.

I'm reading around the net and got alot of information but in result of that I got questions.

Alright like I said my mark viii is stock and I will keep it that may in therms of performance upgrades.

All articles I read so far recommend to leave out the spring of the 2-3 accumulator. I'm a noob and don't know what happens/changes if I would do that. What changes while I'm driving?
I don't wan't my tires to chirps all the time while normal driving and shifting.

I understand now that transmission fluid cooling is essential for my transmission so I'm thinking to get a transmission cooler installed (Ford OEM) and in addition the bigger transmission pan with deep sump pocket.

I heard about the jmod and as my understanding a good transmission fluid circulation to all parts makes sense to me.
There needs to be holes drilled in the seperator plate. I just don't feel comfortable to do that. So are there updated or pre drilled seperator plates to buy?

With the JMOD what will change in therms of normal driving my car?

Thanks and regards

Mathias

If you don't want to drill your own plate, you can buy some from Rob at robstireandauto.com.

No, the JMod will not increase tranny temps - if anything, it will DECREASE fluid temps because it allows less slippage of the clutches. Putting a smaller torque converter (like a hi-stall converter) will increase your fluid temps and you should run a tranny cooler.
 
If you don't want to drill your own plate, you can buy some from Rob at robstireandauto.com.

No, the JMod will not increase tranny temps - if anything, it will DECREASE fluid temps because it allows less slippage of the clutches. Putting a smaller torque converter (like a hi-stall converter) will increase your fluid temps and you should run a tranny cooler.

less slippage and more fluid moving through the trans equals less heat.
 
Thank you all

But so far nobody could explain me how my Mark viii will behave differently without the 2-3 spring and the jmod.
Is nobody here who can tell and explain me the difference in the way of driving and shifting behavior compaired to stock?
 
Thank you all

But so far nobody could explain me how my Mark viii will behave differently without the 2-3 spring and the jmod.
Is nobody here who can tell and explain me the difference in the way of driving and shifting behavior compaired to stock?

If you're not j-modding the trans, then I personally wouldn't leave springs out. Leaving out the 2-3 is going to help engage the gears quicker but without the extra fluid flow (because you're not j-modding the plate), I wouldn't feel comfortable recommending you to remove yours. That's what leaving that spring out will do for you. Without the j-mod, I'm sure it would jump into 3rd quicker but might not be good on something inside without the fluid having more flow. Someone else might be able to answer that one and maybe recommend it but I wouldn't do it without the plate being drilled first. You can buy drilled plates but you still have to take it apart and install it either way. Updating the accumulators and installing new springs is a good move but keep in mind, the new springs will be stiffer which in turn will give even slower shifts. You really should consider buying yourself a plate or drilling it yourself if you have an area to do it. It is not hard to do.

[url]http://tccoa.com/articles/tranny/shiftybusiness.html[/URL]
 
I thought I was pretty clear. Your transmission after this jmod and leaving the 2-3 spring out will make it feel like you're driving a new car with a new transmission.

That is the only way I know how to describe it. The shifts are firmer and the car feels lighter and newer.
 

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