U1201(J1850) Invalid Data for A/C Clutch

[Scallywag]

Ahoy hoy!

One of my Marks(97) cranks over but won't turn on. Engine light came on which the scan tool revealed, U1201 - SCP(J1850) Missing or Invalid Data for Air Conditioning Clutch.

Looking up code U1201 & J1850 led to this helpful post about the A/C Clutch, I wasn't aware low refrigerant could prevent the engine from firing up.
No Cooling Fan or A/C Clutch

I took a look and noticed a leak where the Compressor to Condenser Discharge lines connect, this explains the A/C compressor recently cycling On/Off. Further inspection resulted in a grey(or light brown) ring that I assume should be somewhere within the spring lock clip assembly.

The workshop manual doesn't mention anything about this ring, but looking at this listing for a similar Discharge assembly leads me to think the ring belongs within the discharge tube.

What would the likely fix be: Replacing the Condensor Discharge line assembly or simply reinstalling the ring and replacing the o-ring seals?

 

[driller]

What would the likely fix be: Replacing the Condensor Discharge line assembly or simply reinstalling the ring and replacing the o-ring seals?

I'm not sure it would be a likely fix but I recall years ago when I was working in our fleet shop, we would often fix a myriad of mysterious AC issues by having the AC service guys replace the O-rings on all the AC connections.

Now normally they would evacuate the AC system and pull a vacuum on the system and monitor it for leaks before recharging the freon. I don't know if it was just dumb luck, a real slow leak or the difference of being a static test vs. a dynamic test but 9 times out of 10 replacing the O-rings resolved the problem.

 

[clubairth]

I would read the link you posted again?
There is nothing in the AC that will stop the engine from starting.
You can drain all the refrigerant out and the car will work perfectly fine.

Think about it for a minute? If what you said was true cars would be stranded all over the place!

That is a spring lock fitting and the only way to replace it is to cut the metal ferrule off and re-crimp the new section on. Much better to just replace the hose assembly as your planning to do. But there are many repair sections out there if you need to do this. Here is just one of many. Also note some spring locks have 2 O-rings and some have 3 O-rings. The 3 O-ring setup is better for sure!

Driller has a good point and you could change out the O-Rings first and see if that fixes the leak before spending money on the hose assembly. Do you know what size you need?

Now I don't know how much car work you have done but those spring lock fittings have a spring inside to capture and hold the connections together. It was a bad design because the connection collects water and then corrosion messes up the spring and you can't release the connection. They have all been replaced by the much better peanut type fittings on more modern cars.
You can get the springs separately as well.

You might consider getting a few springs if you plan to try the O-ring fix first. Note there are also additional keepers you place over the spring lock to help hold them even tighter. I have never used any of them.

Good luck and post back how the repair went to help the next guy out.
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[olddavid]

What a great tip abairth. You are an example of how we have been able to keep these great cars on the road, while still having some dignity. Driving an old beat up wreck isn't on my agenda, as I have always taken great pride that everything works on my 27 year old car.