Update on my Rough idle that goes away when I drive off

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vikingdiesel

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Ok, so since no one reponded to my last 4 posts on my problem, I have some updates. The 4 codes I had were TOO RICH, TOO LEAN, Cyl 2 misfire, Cyl 4 misfire. So far, Newer plugs, New coils, New MAF. New Fuel filter. The dealer told me they think my car skipped timing at some point of time and my timing is off(which is not true since it would say somthing like "TIMING RETARD CAMSHAFT... blah blah " . So obviously theres a $1500 charge for them to take the front end off and check out the problem. :bsflag: I for sure thought and stll thinks its either the o2 sensors since that would cure the TOO RICH and TOO LEAN problem and fuel injectors for cyl 2 and 4. Well, yesterday, I disconnected the battery and put 2 new plugs for cylinder 2 and 4 and wanted to change out one of the 4 o2 sensors since one is fried but impossible to get the nut loose so I skipped that and left it for another day. I start the car up and the rough idle was still somewhat there but much less and 2 days driving now and NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. Whats the deal here?
 
All you have to do to check the timing is set the crankshaft to TDC on number 1 and pull off the valve covers. If the marks on the sprockets line up then the timing is fine.

More than likely there is nothing wrong with the timing. You should just change ALL of the spark plugs if that hasn't been done yet.
And the O2 sensors are always easier to remove when the exhaust system is still hot. Remember that steel (as well as most other metals) expands when it is warm. So the hole that the O2 sensor is in will be slightly larger and it will have less of a grip on the sensor. Its also a good idea to spray the sensors with some penetrating oil (WD40, PB Blaster) before the exhaust gets hot and that will also help loosen them up.
 
I had the timing chain skip a tooth. The car was giving me on and off check engine lights with codes for both rich and lean on the same side and cylinder misfires. The only way to tell is to pull the valve covers and check the cams, which is easy after the cover is off. If i recall, on the Gen I at least, there isn't a cam position sensor that would tell the computer that the cam timing is off.
 
nearlyhalfamile said:
I had the timing chain skip a tooth. The car was giving me on and off check engine lights with codes for both rich and lean on the same side and cylinder misfires. The only way to tell is to pull the valve covers and check the cams, which is easy after the cover is off. If i recall, on the Gen I at least, there isn't a cam position sensor that would tell the computer that the cam timing is off.
Click to expand...

wow, so youre actually telling it really can be the timing issue, what exaclty do I have to do, how do I check it?valve cover, under the plugs?
 
I had that happen it was the timeing change tentioner guide! have fun the parts alone were a grand
 
I had the same problem and it was my exhaust timming on bank 2 was off 20 degrees . This is no joke the dealership had my car for 3 days . Are you smelling like a fant oil smell inside the car at a red light or stop sign with the ac or air on? If so then you have the same problem . I did the same thigs you just had done as well . All new coils , plugs , map , trottle body gasket , and o2 senors. Let me know what you find out !!

shawn
 
If you pull off the valve cover and see that the timing marks on the cam don't line up, then you are off a tooth. In my case the tensioner failed. You can correct the timing issue without taking apart everything if you just take out the exhaust cam. That can allow you to adjust the chain as needed and replace the tensioner if needed. If you want to replace the gears or chain, you would then have to do a complete disassemble.
 
ok, the car now is starting to randomly turn its self off not all the time but every once in a while, it just dies and I have to start it back up. Still the timing or indeed something else?
 
Might be a vacuum leak...I'm having the same problem and its a pcv hose leak.
 
Ahh yea sorry mine is a v6...It sounds like the same problem.
I had no problems driving, gas mileage was the same, the power was there, just idled rough and would shut off every once in a while.

So definitely seems like the same type of problem
 
I have a 2000 V8 that cuts out and sometimes shuts down at heavy throttle or when merging into traffic. It also will just die for no reason when at a stop. I will add that this problem is intermittent. My mechanic read a code that said there was a problem with the rear control module. Due to lack of time he wasn't able to look into it further. Could this be the same thing or does anyone know what a rear control module is?
 
Guys, i think were talking about two separate issues here... Regarding the PCV Hose this is more of an odd RPM fluctuation, and random shut offs .. This problem is in many v6 gen1 LS's i havent heard of any V8's having this issue. The Rough idle is different, i have had both the PCV hose failure and Rough Idle problem. I replaced the Hose and the random shut offs and RPM fluctuations went away, But Rough idle is still there..

For more info on PCV Hose:
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=8250&highlight=valve
and
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=13512
 
Exact same problem......

The V6 is notorious for the PCV hose going bad. $400 repair at dealer for a 50 cent piece of hose......they installed a rubber hose surrounded by high heat. Rubber and heat do not mix. No excuse.
 
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