Upper control arm replacement: two questions

[91 LSC SE]

Hi Everyone,

I have read the threads here and the Ford CD manual which states to remove the Strut/Shock assembly to replace the UCA.

Question 1: Did any of you remove the air shock? I do not see why this would be necessary?

Question 2: How do you use a torque wrench to tighten to the listed foot pounds? (same way as the LCA's - with the car on the ground? See below for what the manual states)

Can't see my socket and torque wrench fitting in those spots on either side. (master cylinder, and A/C accumulator on the other side) .I had same issue trying to torque the LCA cam bolts with the Rack in the way. I think the cam bolts should be inserted bolt from the front (by the rack) to the rear of vehicle, then they could be torqued easily. I would think you just switch sides and the cam bolt would work the same. I'm going to ask my wheel alignment guy when I'm done.

Below is what the Ford manual states:

"Tighten mounting bolts to specification while holding front suspension arm bushing joint in a horizontal position". Not sure what they mean by this. Not like you would hold it vertical.

 

[soduka]

I never remove the shock tower when replacing the UCA. There's no reason to. Don't know why Ford says to.

Thread the nut onto the bolt top-side gently while it's all in there but do not tighten it until the car is back at its correct sitting height and under its own weight. If you tighten it down while it's perched at an unnatural angle the car will drive weird and the bushing will also be tweaked like crazy and squeak.

Ask me how I know that.

Once again, I don't use torque wrenches for this. If you want the clearance for a torque wrench you're tripling the time investment moving crap out of the way in the engine bay to make room.

Passenger side has enough room to do this whole procedure without removing anything. Driver side, one of the bolts is buried under the master cylinder/brake booster. Owner before me cut a small cheater hole in the skin of the wheel well so you can do it from inside the well without taking apart the brake system. Otherwise, looks like it sucks.

 

[91 LSC SE]

Thanks Soduka

I have read there is a access hole if you remove the driver's inner fender. I would like to torque to specs - I wonder how or if actual shops/dealers actually do this or not.

 

[unity]

I made that access hole bigger....

 

[Roadboss]

There is an access whole on the drivers side, under the insulation covered by the plastic inner liner. With a 3/8" drive set you can get in to handle everything. I expanded the size of the hole further with my air hammer and sheet metal bit. You can also chisel off the lock tab on the bolt head, so you can get a box wrench on the head.