I reclaimed my 2003 LS V8 from the person I sold it to, he didn't want it anymore because it was evidently too unreliable. A. There is a nasty whining noise coming from the engine/transmission in first and second. I don't like it. I want to fix it, any ideas? B. Parking brake doesn't work. Unhooked the battery a couple of times to try and reset it, but every time it engaged, it would go on, then off and proceed to not work anymore. C. Parking sensors don't work. Light pops off after I go into reverse and I can't turn it on anymore, it resets and does the same thing every time the car is cycled on and off.
Urgent help!
- Thread starter slm987
- Start date
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Whine may be a transmission pump noise. Since the pump is the first thing you see when looking into the bell after removing the converter. at least it's easy to get to without a complete teardown.
KS
KS
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Start with the basics. Any codes being set?
Worse comes to worse, the trans is the same one used in the SUVs, so it's not a one-off disaster like the engine. You can get it rebuilt or get a crate trans from the dealer. I wouldn't think it would be the pump because it's engaged in all gears, not just the first two so it would be internal to the transmission. Assuming here that when it hits third that the noise goes away? For God's sake, don't take it to AAMCO I don't care how desperate you get. Given a choice between AAMCO and taking a new Corvette to the crusher, HULK SMASH!
My own parking sensors don't work that well either. No matter, they aren't really needed so I'd put this on the bottom of the list of repairs unless you just suck at driving. Mine will sometimes work if I shift back to neutral, then to reverse again, and they tend to work better when it's cold out. It's probably the module, but I have absolutely no intention of doing anything about it.
Worse comes to worse, the trans is the same one used in the SUVs, so it's not a one-off disaster like the engine. You can get it rebuilt or get a crate trans from the dealer. I wouldn't think it would be the pump because it's engaged in all gears, not just the first two so it would be internal to the transmission. Assuming here that when it hits third that the noise goes away? For God's sake, don't take it to AAMCO I don't care how desperate you get. Given a choice between AAMCO and taking a new Corvette to the crusher, HULK SMASH!
My own parking sensors don't work that well either. No matter, they aren't really needed so I'd put this on the bottom of the list of repairs unless you just suck at driving. Mine will sometimes work if I shift back to neutral, then to reverse again, and they tend to work better when it's cold out. It's probably the module, but I have absolutely no intention of doing anything about it.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
thats a lie... of course you do... its called making it somebody else problem!
Parking sensors I just want to make work. I like my stuff working. The noise does go away in third, either that or I'm thrashing it too hard to notice. :lol: The guy I sold it to was just about to take it to AAMCO, is it really that bad? I know the transmission is on it's way out, 2nd and 3rd gear servo bores are probably junk, it's lost reverse on me 2 times, but it still seems to manage. There's a company that dresses up a 5R55S for the mustangs that supposedly handles 1025hp, worst comes to worst, I'll just have them take the guts from that and stuff it into my transmission.
Also no codes are set, aside from misfires. I'm working on that. Put a set of Ebay coils in there just to keep it moving for a while without having major issues. The old ones were a mixed bag, and one of them was so deteriorated that it would give feedback to the ECU and knock it down while driving. That wasn't fun.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Dang, I didn't think about that! I retract my statement. I FULLY plan to make the faulty backup sensors someone else's problem. I will lose 0.00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000001 minute's sleep over it. It's not like I'm going to get squat out of the car to begin with. This is one of the few cars that I will trade in rather than try to sell outright, because I couldn't look someone in the eyes and sell them this car and I sold my Reatta outright. I can look a used car dealer in the eyes and sell him this car though. Probably gonna trade it for a Corolla or a Camry, and be happy with the trade. In fact, I'll be spending quite a bit of tomorrow getting it ready to go.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Oh yes, AAMCO is that bad. If you have a performance company that can rebuild it reliably I'd do it, but you don't need the thousand horse rebuild. A stock rebuild will do because there is little to no aftermarket for this car. Since you have a whine I think the trans has a hard failure, but there is another issue with the transmissions on these cars; the coils will kill the PCM, and the specific part of the PCM that fails is the transmission control portion. Save this link. Eventually the coils will kill the PCM and it shows by the trans shifting like total crap, particularly on the reverse to drive (slams into gear) and the shifting goes to hell. When that happens you'll think the solenoid is bad, but this is where you really want to start. Once again though, the whine indicates a gearing issue in the trans and not a PCM failure.
The cheapo coils aren't a good idea either. I know the cheap parts work for other cars, but you really need to spend the extra 10 bucks and get Motorcraft parts for this car. NGK plugs are fine, but the LS is a delicate creature that can't handle the "one part fits most" of the cheapo aftermarket. Paying more for Motorcraft up front will save you time and money in the long run.
The cheapo coils aren't a good idea either. I know the cheap parts work for other cars, but you really need to spend the extra 10 bucks and get Motorcraft parts for this car. NGK plugs are fine, but the LS is a delicate creature that can't handle the "one part fits most" of the cheapo aftermarket. Paying more for Motorcraft up front will save you time and money in the long run.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
How can you go from a doll-baby like an LS to eyesores like Camry or Toymotor Co-Rolla? Well,it takes all kinds,I guess. don-ohio^)
Going to either use it for a work commuter or give to my daughter, who only cares about fuel efficiency. My "family car" is almost certainly going to be a new Charger, which will be the last new car I ever buy barring a car accident. I don't want a weak little trailer queen doll baby, I want a car that has some power and the weakest 2016 V6 Charger is just as fast as the LS.
Well,Dodge quality used to be pretty bad,but maybe now they're better.Almost every time I see a blue-smoking exhaust it's one of those Dodge or Cry-Slurs. Hope it works well for you though. At least the Charger has close to LS looks. don-ohio ^)
^)Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
I don't like the 5 speed transmissions but with the new 8 speeds co-developed with GM they really have something. The V6 is as fast as the V8 LS (15.1 through the quarter) and the V8 just FLIES. Folks on a Charger board report 27+MPG with the 5.7 when cruising too. The 5.7 will SMOKE the LS like a cheap cigar. Can't wait to get one.
Of course I'm still trying to talk the wife into a Mercedes SL500, but she wants a back seat.
Of course I'm still trying to talk the wife into a Mercedes SL500, but she wants a back seat.
I was looking at remanufactured transmissions, there was another company that installs a whole bunch of modifications for reliability reasons, they replace the servo bores too. One of those and a new ECU it is....
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Caution: If you replace the PCM, you will need a dealer or a really good scan tool to marry the new PCM to your PATS and keys. Until then, the engine won't start. On the other hand, if you send your PCM in for repair and reinstall it when you get it back, you won't need to do any of that. It will just work.
For the rear park assist, you will have to pull the codes to get some idea of what is up. (Yes, it does set codes, but most scan tools can't read them.) There is an electronic module on the package shelf that is probably the problem. If not, then the radar module behind the bumper cover is the next bet. Finally, you have the wiring and the two ultrasonic modules. Guess at it, or pull the code(s).
Parking brake: Check the mechanical cables to the calipers. It sounds like one of them may be broken.
Wine: Could be fluid squirting around a worn servo bore, or it could be a lot of other things.
Refurbished I should've said, haha. Dealer would want way too much for it. Transmission probably does have worn servo bores, as far as I know the transmission is original, in which case it would have 120k miles on it. I wish my VAG com would scan Ford modules, it'll only do generic OBD II on the car. I've also heard multiple different stories on the e-brake, some people said it was hydraulic, other mechanical, but I'll certainly look for cables today. It sounds like it's engaging, I can hear the motor get to a stress point where the noise changes.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Just to be clear here, it has to be your (original to your car) repaired PCM. Putting any other PCM in will trigger the need to remarry the PATS and prevent the engine from starting.
The electronic parking brake is mechanical. Instead of you pulling up on a lever, there is a motor that pulls on a cable. This cable goes to the equalizer, which connects to the two cables (one for each wheel) that pull the levers on the rear calipers. The motor is under the car, near the differential. The electronic module is in the trunk on the driver's side, near the tail light.
Principles of Operation
Electronic Parking Brake (EPB)
The electronic parking brake (EPB) replaces the function of the conventional hand brake lever system. The EPB has 2 functions. Its primary function is to hold the vehicle up to a 30% grade. The secondary function is to be able to decelerate the vehicle by using the EPB as an emergency brake.
The EPB system:
has a switch located in the front console behind the gear selector. The switch is hard wired to the EPB module. It includes a yellow fault warning lamp.
has a control module that communicates with the other vehicle modules through the standard corporate protocol (SCP) network.
uses an electric motor and gearbox assembly to apply and release tension on a conventional parking brake cable system.
Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) Operation
Pull the parking brake switch upward to engage the parking brake. Release the switch, and it will return to the neutral position. To release the parking brake, make sure the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, press the brake pedal, then push the parking brake switch down. The instrument cluster BRAKE warning lamp will illuminate and will remain illuminated until the parking brake is released.
The EPB will automatically release when the gearshift lever is moved from PARK with the ignition switch in the ON position. The EPB will also disengage if a gear is selected and the accelerator pedal is pressed. The EPB will not release when the release switch is activated. If the battery is disconnected, the EPB system must be reset; the vehicle message center will display APPLY PARK BRAKE or APPLY ((P)).
The electronic parking brake is mechanical. Instead of you pulling up on a lever, there is a motor that pulls on a cable. This cable goes to the equalizer, which connects to the two cables (one for each wheel) that pull the levers on the rear calipers. The motor is under the car, near the differential. The electronic module is in the trunk on the driver's side, near the tail light.
Principles of Operation
Electronic Parking Brake (EPB)
The electronic parking brake (EPB) replaces the function of the conventional hand brake lever system. The EPB has 2 functions. Its primary function is to hold the vehicle up to a 30% grade. The secondary function is to be able to decelerate the vehicle by using the EPB as an emergency brake.
The EPB system:
has a switch located in the front console behind the gear selector. The switch is hard wired to the EPB module. It includes a yellow fault warning lamp.
has a control module that communicates with the other vehicle modules through the standard corporate protocol (SCP) network.
uses an electric motor and gearbox assembly to apply and release tension on a conventional parking brake cable system.
Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) Operation
Pull the parking brake switch upward to engage the parking brake. Release the switch, and it will return to the neutral position. To release the parking brake, make sure the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, press the brake pedal, then push the parking brake switch down. The instrument cluster BRAKE warning lamp will illuminate and will remain illuminated until the parking brake is released.
The EPB will automatically release when the gearshift lever is moved from PARK with the ignition switch in the ON position. The EPB will also disengage if a gear is selected and the accelerator pedal is pressed. The EPB will not release when the release switch is activated. If the battery is disconnected, the EPB system must be reset; the vehicle message center will display APPLY PARK BRAKE or APPLY ((P)).
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Better hope so, because I don't know of any other way to get them now. First, check and make sure that is the problem. It could also be something with the motor (actuator), module, or either caliper.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
they are not...
now the problem is they used to be 75% German design, and now they are sprinkling in some of that wonderful Italian designing... all while hoping it works great together.
#FixItAgainTony
While you're there can you score the trim piece behind the door pull. The piece that hide the two screws that hold on the door panel.
It wouldn't surprise me at all if it was the module. All the electronics on this car seem to go to hell at some point in time. The motor sounds like it's working, and at some point in the brake application cycle, the noise changes pitch, so I assume it's tensioning the cables. We shall see.
The dodge charger isn't a bad car, neighbors have one. Interior is kinda cheap and there isn't much exhaust noise. From something that's support to appear muscular, it sure doesn't seem like it. To be honest, their minivan could probably outrun it too...