Valve Cover bolts....

TDUB

TDUB

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So the bolts that hold my valve cover in don't seem to want to come out, I turn them and turn them but no cigar. So far I've only gotten one out. Are they just really long or am I missing something here?
 
Ok so I figured out how to get most of the top ones off and front bottom one. I can't however get the very back one off or the rest of the bottom bolts because I can't get the socket to fit in. Any ideas?
 
come at the one closest to the fire wall from the opposite corner of the car and you will have no problem
 
A good selection of tools for turning bolts is a great help. I seem to remember that a racheting box wrench was of help somewhere in there. Unbolting that entire elaborate assembly from the driver's side wheel house and pushing it out of the way makes things much easier also.
KS
 
Some of the bolts might actually be all the way out of the head, but you might think otherwise because they didn't come out of the cover. All of mine staid in the cover - I think they're supposed to do this so that you don't accidently drop them in the head/engine compartment when removing/installing the cover. If they seem super loose, and aren't coming out any further, then they're probably all the way out of the head, and I'd just move on to the next one.

Regarding using a torque wrench when tightening the bolts back down; I would use it on as many as you can get to, and do the rest by hand. Pay special attention to the torque specs for those bolts, as they are in in/lbs and not ft/lbs (at least they were in the Ford service manual I have). I overlooked this at first when I did my VCGs, and almost snapped one of the bolts in two before I realized my mistake. Major "doh" and a close one. :D
 
Slight extra 'Ummmmph' is all that's necessary. Torque specs are due to some poor guy justifying his job as an engineer.
KS
 
cammerfe said:
Slight extra 'Ummmmph' is all that's necessary. Torque specs are due to some poor guy justifying his job as an engineer.
KS
Click to expand...

Or they're there for some dumbass mechanic who thinks everything should be torqued to "head bolt" tightness. :D
 
The dealer does sell them, but they're between $3-$4 a piece. Just ask them for valve cover bolts.
 
cammerfe said:
Slight extra 'Ummmmph' is all that's necessary. Torque specs are due to some poor guy justifying his job as an engineer.
KS
Click to expand...

As opposed to the mechanic who justifies his job because of the shade-tree mechanic decides he's too "smart" to pay attention to torque specs... :rolleyes:

If they put the rest of the information such as part numbers, fluid capacities, etc in the service manual why are those numbers legit but the torque specs are not? :confused:

Advice to original poster: get a torque wrench.
 
I lost one of these also and just called the dealer and they want $8 for one, would regular hardware from Home Depot work the same or is the one from the dealer some special type of material? I just cant see paying $8 for one screw.
 
On the actual valve cover? ask max at five star ford. He can get you parts for less than your local dealership. When I needed new spark plugs and fuel filter, It was considerably less, even with shipping.
 
If you have a source for metric bolts, you'll find that they can be replaced for less than a dollar each.

As a former metallurgical process engineer for Ford, I am very aware of the sort of personality traits to be found in those whose job title includes the appellation 'engineer'. And I'm also aware that labeling everything is part of that personality. When coupled with the corporate notion that the sort of protection that comes from being able to say that 'It's already been covered' is desirable, the result is to have half a page of spec for a flat washer.

Don't twist the little bolt so hard as to strip the hole and you'll do just fine!
KS
 
I was going to try Max actually but I was hoping to get this done today and it would take about 5 days for it to get here. It makes me nervous seeing a little smoke come up from under the hood near the windshield while sitting at a light. Knowing that I think I will be making a trip to Home Depot to see if I can find what I need. Thanks for the quick responses from both of you.
 
I like to use a Torque Wrench on valve covers so that I know that the cover is exerting equal pressure all across the gasket which means less chance to leak. While it may not be an absolute necessity I do suggest it just because it doesn't take much more effort if you have the right tools for it. There are sometimes a few bolts that I end up having to torque by feel but it leaves less variables on the table than had I torqued all of them by feel.
 
I just took the valve cover off and the bolts came with it....once i got to a point they just spun....
 
Yes - use a torgue wrench. they should be snugged 89lbs-in (about 7.5lb-ft).

like Robert said - it's the only way you'll know they are all at the right tightness - and since you'll be using extensions and swivles it's hard to tell by feel. Many folks have had a post swap leak on the driver's side firewall lower corner - since it's the toughest to get to - under the brake booster.
 
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