Voltage issue driving me crazy.

[jagerme911]

Replaced alternator, battery, belt. Still getting low voltage at an idle (lights dim.. etc.). Voltage rises as I accelerate. Kind of stumped where to go from here. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[jdmans101]

I hope you got a ford/motorcraft alternator. How low is it at idle compared to driving? Mine pumps out about 14.7v when driving and 14v at idle

 

[jagerme911]

?

No...Auto Zone remand... I haven't actually put it on a volt tester yet but will...Oh BTW 2002 Ls V8 144,000

 

[jdmans101]

No...Auto Zone remand... I haven't actually put it on a volt tester yet but will...Oh BTW 2002 Ls V8 144,000

I would check the voltage. But more than likely its the cheap autozone alt already failing or just cant keep up. Its been discussed on here that the only good alternator for this car is the Motorcraft. The electrical system is very picky in the LS. My lights inside do dim time to time, so maybe everything is normal. Never know unless you test the volts, but it should always be in the 14v range.

 

[chris2523]

many autozone reman's are junk right out of the box.

 

[jagerme911]

Semi low

It's doesn't drop extremely low but enough that i notice a difference! I will check alternator voltages...But what do you guys think? Possibly Pulley tension? Bad wire?

 

[oddball]

Bad alternator. Low/no output at idle is something I've seen several times on remans. I suspect the manufacturers sometimes put the wrong board in the alternators and sell them to us, assuming parts interchange that don't.

Best bet is to get a Motorcraft, but it is pricey. I'm currently using a Napa, and that's working fine, although folks have mentioned Napa alt's failing every few years. If you get a reman, get an extended/lifetime warranty.
I don't like the DB high output alts (two failures right out of the box), but others have had success with them. I don't know if anyone has tried the motorcityreman alt.

 

[TooManyToys]

Over my career I've been to a number of re-builders sites. The normal routine for the lower cost suppliers is to pull everything apart, clean the housings, dress the armature, then reassemble with salvaged parts that appear to test well. If it bench tests OK, and just OK, it goes in a box.

I too used to think that a rebuilt alt / starter / etc meant that it got new boards, diodes, etc. Not necessarily. You generally get what you pay for.

 

[cammerfe]

My Experience

When my original alternator failed, I was within a couple of days of leaving for Maxton. No one could promise delivery in time except AZ who had one in stock. It lasted about two months and failed while I was in staging at Maxton. It has a lifetime warranty, and has been replaced twice more at no cost except our labor.

The current one is now over two years old and shows no sign of not working. I installed a voltmeter to monitor on an ongoing basis.

I have discovered a local place who claim to be able to re-do with an amperage increase. I will try them when I install the new engine.

KS