Warning Chimes on 94 Conti

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94PgherConti

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OK. So my starting woes have subsided - see previous post (although stalling now at start up - I'll liken THAT to engine "re-learning" per the manual).

Here's something STRANGE... Some funky warning chime keeps going off while driving. It chimes and the dash lights dim, then it goes off and the dash lights brighten. Does this CONTINUOUSLY throughout driving! My son and I are perplexed.

Key is obviously in ignition and belts are buckled. WTF?

Any ideas?
 
is the 'check dcl' light on, or any other warnings on the dash, such as oil pressure, temp, batt, ect. if so, your the next victim of the bad connections they ALL get.

search for 'dcl tuneup' and do that, and while in there, get the 2 black connectors on the back of the cluster resoldered. that will fix that error.

another cause of the chimes would be bad/missing/unplugged airbag warning light (the one on the flat trim below the radio). Yes, the onboard computers can tell if the airbag warning light is bad, and yells about it.
 
Still a problem New Discovery though

Determined that chime only came on during evening (not during daytime). One day was particularly overcast and NO CHIME.... so I decided to put headlights on for safety and BINGO --- CHIME RETURNED !!

I guess during night time hours with sentinel, the headlights come on and so does warning chime.

Any ideas (I don't simply want to disconnect the chime - I want to fix problem)? Chime is rather loud and repeats every 20 or so seconds!
 
is there any other warning lights?? almost sounds like a light out alarm now.

check all headlights, and taillights as well, they are all monitored.
 
WOW. THANKS !!!!

Pardon my ignorance. I guess I'm not used to owning a "luxury" vehicle. I'll check all lights (previous owner did not have an owner's manual).
 
Checked lights. Front white "marker lights" were out (towards outside fenders beside the headlights). Replaced bulbs - but still out. Haven't checked fuse yet (but can't imagine fuse is dedicated only to those two lights).

HOWEVER - Now annoying chime on without lights turned on AND CHECK ENGINE light came on!

WTF ? Frustrating as all get out!

As I understand it, trouble codes can be stored even without CE light coming on. But now with Check Engine light coming on, can I somehow "pull the codes" or does dealer need to do such a thing?
 
if the white lights your talking about are the ones on the corner of the fender, they will only come on with parking or headlights on, and turn signal active (they are properly called cornering lights).

codes can be pulled by most auto parts stores, its just a normal EEC-IV. some may say they can't because its not OBD-II, but tell them you KNOW they can, or go to anotherone.

I am gonna go back to my original question about any other warning lights or indications in the cluster when the chime goes off. it really does sound like a bad solderjoint on the black connectors right now. they not only provide the power, ground, DCL (for the message center), they also provide the sensor inputs for the oil press, water temp, fuel, speed, and a whole assortment of stuff. if just ONE of the sensor inputs is flakey, you could get crazy sheeet happening on the cluster.

when the chime is going off, the oil, water, or volt indicator (left side of display, the one thats selectable by pushbutton) will start flashing if the appropriate sensor is not working right (or its wiring). Same for fuel level. there is also the speed alarm, (what tells you your going faster than what you want to), maybe the speed function is goofy (does the cluster say 'SPEED' on it??).
 
New Development

No "speed light" lights up when chimes go off. Check engine goes on then maybe next time the car is started (next day - etc.) check engine does NOT come on but chimes continue to annoy. Short trips may have something to do with this - I don't know.

DEVELOPMENT - took car to a local mechanic I've changed to recently (NOT dealer). He said the computer is acting strange. They'd pull codes then clear then codes AND THEN there'd be a whole NEW set of codes ...

DCL light was NOT coming on through all this (at least while I B4 I took it to mechanic), but could it STILL be the connections and the soldering/cleaning issue? I mean am I beating the dead horse too much already?

THX!
Phil
 
all the gauges (oil, temp, volt, fuel) get their respective input from the same connectors on the wiring harness as the DCL (different pins obviously).

so, you could be having bad connections on them pins but not the DCL pins. I would recommend getting the cluster tuned/resoldered (the 2 black connectors) to try to stop the chimes, as well as a good preventative measure.


Just a little insight.. my 91 had a new/rebuilt cluster installed prior to me getting it (in 2005). The date on the cluster was 2000!!! so the connections on mine failed in less than 5 years (with 2 1/2 of them sitting parked). Also, mine had DCL, as well as oil press gauge errors (would fall to 0, then I would get a chime, the oil indicator would flash, ect). once resoldered, all was good
 
Mechanic tells me it's the computer (he said the ECM) is BAD. Variety of screwy codes keep coming back. Estimated $700 to send it out to get current computer re-manufactured and installed (labor, etc.).

Although he did say that car is running better now - - ? Hmmmmmm.

I told him I'd take the car back for now and think about it.

I will attempt to check out the the sodder joints/connections this weekend on my own.

Any other insights?? I don't want to give up on such a beautiful vehicle.
 
it is VERY VERY VERy (did I say very?) rare for a ECM to fail. and usually when they do, its a solid failure, one that is easily traceable.

if YOU suspect the ecm is bad, hit a junkyard and get one from the same year. try to match the exact p/n if possible, their may have been varients, but most of the variations should be somewhat interchangable.

If your uncomfortable with doing the soldering, I can do that for you, just pay shipping both ways for the cluster. I can get them done the day or day after I receive it, and get it on its way back. From PA, I would figure a week without it if you time sending it out right.

BTW, the car WILL run just fine without the cluster, just make sure all the connections are covered up and secured so the dont short out against anything.

Another option if your on vacation in my area, stop by (with advance warning of course), and I can take care of the cluster then.
 
Car is back in my driveway. Intent is to perform DCL Tuneup this weekend (after I clean out the garage to fit the car in, of course).

This is a third vehicle for us (2003 Chrysler T&C Minivan 55K, 1994 Honda Accord EX 170K) so once I roll up my sleeves in doing this DCL Tuneup job, I MAY just take you up on mailing back and forth. I did Google 'DCL tuneup' so I feel I'm armed and dangerous (for now).

I'll keep you informed following the weekend.

Thank you !!!
 
most of the 'tuneup' instructions dont include soldering the 2 black connectors. That is where a lot of the problems reside. the tune up seems to fix it because you disturb the wiring harness, and now it puts pressure on the connectors in a slightly different direction, therefore possibly making the contacts work again. but the tune up is worth it, even if you dont do or need the soldering, as it cleans up the contacts for communication from the cluster computer to the display decoders (the flat flexible cables inside the cluster itself).
 
Got it - tune up AND soldering. I'll see how intricate it looks and post results in this thread.

Maybe I'll snap a few pics of the process while I'm at it ... ?
 
OK Took pink eraser to all ribbon connectors and "big" plud as per "DCL Tuneup" instructions.

HOWEVER - one of the prongs within the larger black connector on the breadboard is bent (see photo). Is this SUPPOSED to be that way or should I straighten it ???

ALSO - not sure what is supposed to be re-soldered since all connections are solid on breadboard (especially paid attention to those of the black connectors).

bentprong.JPG
 
breadboard, not Printed Circuit board?? could you take a pic of it from a little farther back?? I want to make sure we are looking in the same area.
 
The particular prong that is bent is once again within the LARGE black connector and looking at second pic .... amongst the RIGHT side set of prongs - the fourth from the top (per second pic). Referring to the very first pic I submitted, you can see that the bent prong would connect to the plug right along with the corresponding LEFT hand prong. This looks strange to me at the very least.

I think I'm confusing matters trying to explain.... I think you can get it.

Should I straighten?
 
yup.. bent pin, thats for sure, they should all be straight.

also, the resoldering is on the backside of the board them connectors are mounted on. you need to resolder the locations where the pins connect to the PCB. you will need to disassemble the cluster to remove the board. be carefull doing it, as these are old parts we are working with, and a lot of the plastic is brittle.
 
OK - Regarding resoldering ... The current solders of both of the black connections really LOOK to be OK even under magnification.

QUESTION: Besides a magnified visual scrutiny of the pin solder joints, is there a foolproof method of confirming the solders integrity (like using a multimeter)?

Otherwise (besides) .... I know my limitations even not understanding the resoldering procedures entirely as I only have basic soldering tools AND elementary skills (resolder pencil - probably too hot for this seemingly intricate job)....

I'm thinking I will re-assemble W/O resoldering AND THEN if car is still acting up, I'll take you up on having you resolder for me. Since this is a third car for us anyway and it is now snug in my garage.

Separate question - How best to have the computer reset itself after reconnecting battery once everything is "put back"? Is it automatic or just a matter of time after several short trips?

Thanks for ALL your help (and SPEED of your responses) during this endeavor.

By the way, we used to live in Berkley, MI just north of Detroit (1986-2003). Visited Traverse City for the Cherry Festival once in the 1990's..... Loved the city but family issues in back in hometown of Pittsburgh, decided to move back.
 
the computer re-learn is pretty much automatic, just takes a few mins of idling and few mins of driving. fords do it pretty quick.

make sure to straighten that pin carefully. dont want to break it off. that connector will be a biatch to find a replacement for, except from a doner cluster.

if your unsure of the re-solder, then let someone who is sure do it, as if you mess it up, it can kill the cluster. I have done several (including mine, which was the first one I did). I used to do that kind of repair for a living, and still manage to keep up that kind of work as a 'hobby'.

I lived in Metro Detroit (Warren, Lake Orion, Novi, Canton) until about 5 yrs ago, when a change in lifestyle forced the move up here.
 
Hooray !!

DCL Tuneup (no soldering ... yet) cleared the phantom chime! Funny thing is I think the car runs better even though the bent prong and the DCL probably don't affect engine that much.

Now onto three other agenda items or me to resolve:
1) Rotors and pads (should be simple enough)
2) A/C compressor (I'll take to a shop for THAT!)
3) Interestingly enough, after sitting in my garage for a few days, I noticed a fluid spot in vicinity of passenger side front wheel(not oil - maybe water ?? or antifreeze ??) no smell and couldn't be A/C condensation. Hmmmm. Minimal, but irksome nonetheless. Any ideas on that one?

Teddy - Thanks for help with DCL tuneup and bent prong and all!
 
Glad to hear the chime is gone!

the liquid, near front wheel.. if it was real close to wheel, about all it can be is brake fluid. a little farther inboard could be antifreeze, oil, or atf (not real likely on the atf). another thought would be just some rain water comming out of the ac drain, but thats more towards the center, on the firewall. Of course, on the rain subject, it could be you had some hidden somewhere, and it came out when you put it in the garage.. who know, colorless/odorless liquid is usually just water.
 
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