Weird Wipers

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jeffmo

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I have enjoyed this forum for a while. Lots of knowledgeable folks here. I now have a problem for which I need help. I have a 92 LSC. The wipers turn on, but do not have intermittent, only low and high. Plus, when the stalk control is returned to off, the wipers remain on. If the ignition switch is turned off and back on, the wipers will then be off. When the stalk is depressed, the wipers turn on as does the washer spray. But, again, will not turn off unless the ignition switch is cycled. A major pain to pull to the side of the road, turn off the ignition, then restart the car to stop the wipers.

I did a thread search and see the multifuntion switch mentioned as an offtimes culprit, but would like more help.

Thanks
 
First, clean up the ground on the wiper motor. If that does not fix the problem, you can either clean or replace the multifunction switch.
 
Thanks

Thanks for the advice. I cleaned the ground (both ends and connection points). The wipers will now shut off via the switch except when I depress for spray and wipe. Still no intermitttent. I suppose my next step is the multifunction switch. Can you direct me to a thread as how to get to it, clean or replace? Are they still available from the dealer? If so, are they unreasonably priced?
 
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Now What

I just replaced the combo switch with a new one. Blue Springs Ford in Blue Springs Missouri was able to find one. Now the flasher works correctly and the turn signals are more positive, but still no intermittent wipers. Everything else seems okay.
I thought the wiper motor just responds to the signal input and will provide intermitttent if told to. So, now I have no clue as to why I do not have intermittent.
Any ideas?
 
Thanks Magic Al. Now if I knew where the governor was located, I would plan to replace it. Would you happen to know where it is located? Probably easier to replace than isolate with testing. Based upon the wiring diagram, it would appear to be the culprit.
 
Don't know if it's the same for all model years, but I pulled a spare from a car in the salvage yard that was located up & behind the headlight switch. Was hard to access, even in a car w/ the dash torn up.
 
The wiper motor must be properly grounded for all functions to work. I had a problem getting the wipers to 'park' in the position flush with the hood. Remove the wiper motor screws (I think there are 3) and clean the grounding points where the wiper motor bolts to the firewall with emery cloth and put a bit of silicone grease. Cleaning only the electrical connector will not solve the problem. The wiper motor needs to be properly grounded. Hope it helps.
 
Sounded like a good idea, however, the screws that hold the wiper motor to the firewall is insulated from the wiper motor by rubber gromments. The only ground I can find is the wire from the motor to under the top left mounting screw. So, it sounds like the govenor may be the problem which is more trouble to change than the gain. I guess I can live without the interval wipers. Thanks to all for the advice. At least I now have a good combo switch and the emergency flashers work and the turn signals switch feels like new. Pretty sloppy before.
 
Try taking the grey connector off and cleaning the contacts. That was the problem I had with mine. Make sure to put some dielectric grease in the connector too. If that doesn't help then it's likely to be your wiper motor or the governor up in the dash.
 
The interval wiper module is above/near the parking brake on the '90, '91, '92 models. I replaced one of mine about 6 months ago. For the life of me, I can't recall how I did it, but it was a "no biggie" deal. It seems that I simply removed the driver-side, under dash panel and reached right in there and snapped it out, unplugged it, plugged in another one and snapped it back in. I could be mistaken, but I do know that it is where I described it, and it was a piece-o-cake. (maybe I removed the dash A/C register & trim... damn, damn, damn... can't remember...!) I'll look for pics and if I have any, I'll post 'um HERE!

Art
 
Thanks for all the input. I have tried all but the govenor. Cleaned all the connections, etc. That only leaves the govenor. I have found that even though the wipers now turn off when the stalk is returned to off, if I use the washers, they will not turn off unless I turn off the ignition. Strange. So, with that oddity and that the intermittent does not work, that only leaves the govenor to replace. I bought a manual this week on ebay and perhaps it will give good intructions on how to change it. I hate to not fix the problem. This a really nice 53K car. Not a scratch or ding and everything else works except the tape. Don't have any tapes anyway that I want to listen to.
 
Fixed

I bought a new govenor. The swap was super easy. The knee pad under the steering column needs to be removed. Then the govenor is in plain sight. It pries off two metal prongs. Remove the connector, plug into the new one, snap back on the two prongs, and walla, fixed. This was my problem. Cleanning the ground on the wiper motor corrected the wipers not shutting off but now the new govenor fixes the intermittent and the washers not shutting off.
Thanks to those who recommended the govenor and sent the wiring diagram. Now, the drivers door lock actuator decided to take a dump and does not work. If it is as hard to replace as one I replaced on a 90 Mustang convertible, it will be a burger. My hands are just too big to reach. Oh well. I have not checked prices, but several years ago, they were really expensive.
 
I haven't done it on a Mustang so can't compare, but replacing the actuator on the Mark is not too bad.
The key never would work passenger side since i got the car.. really hard to turn the key.. After a few years the power lock stopped working.. After a month of living with that I got down and fixed it.
The progressively worsening actuator was the cause.

My hands are pretty big but i had no problem getting one in there. One is all you're allowed anyway..

Scope things out ahead of time with inspection mirrors and good lighting because you probably will be working blind once your hand is in there.

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From memory...
There's a white plastic clip that fastens the top of the actuator-rod onto the linkage. That clip can be "unclipped" from the rod and turned out of the way, while still being partially attached.
The rod's end is then free, and can be pulled out of the linkage.
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The actuator body is pivots (slightly) on two metal studs on the sides of the cylinder. These studs are capped with thick rubber grommets.

The grommets pop-slide in and out of U-shaped bracket cutouts .. a tight fit but they will pop out when pulled down hard. Doing that frees the actuator body.
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After about 6 (?) inches of actuator cable, there's a 2-wire plug that can be pulled apart. The cable/connector lies in the bottom of the door. I don't remember having any trouble disconnecting it.
I think the plug-socket and wires can be maneuvered near one of the door cutouts... Might have to disconnect a wire clip hold-down to free the cable.

Remove the actuator.
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A junkyard part worked fine on my car.. Pick n' Pull might have charged me $4 or so. I'm guessing that about 8 years and several Ford-Lincoln models use that same actuator.
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Reinstalation presents various minor difficulties, none of which can't be overcome with a little patience. Just keep your eye on the prize: Functional doorlocks :cool:
 
Thanks

I appreciate the input. I will probably go the junk yard route since I checked the cost of a new one and about s***. Or, I may contact a guy on ebay who says he has lots of Mark parts. I bought a manual so between your help and the manual I suppose I can get it done, Thanks
 
The wire comes out of the actuator, around the bottom of the door and is attached to the inner panel with a couple of Xmas tree fasteners. Just pop them loose from the panel and you have enough wire to pull the actuator "way" out of the door. Just remember to push the Xmas tree fasteners back into their holes when done.

I usually don't try to pop the rubbers out of the bracket. ( I have done it that way, but had a hard time lining them back up on installation) You can just spread (read: bend) the bracket with your hand, leaving the rubbers in the bracket. On replacement, just start one of the studs back into the rubber and squeeze the bracket a bit. Slide the other tab partially into the other rubber and squeeze the bracket further closed. There will still be some side play, so one good squeeze with a set of channel locks does the trick.

This may not be the better method, it just works fastest for me.

Either way, it's not too bad. Don't forget to get some "fresh" fasteners for the door panel. These puppy's are heavy. The carpet panel on the door panel is easily removable, so all mine also wound up with a couple of sheet metal screws behind it. (hint, hint)

Art
 
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