What a weekend, it may cost me 800.00

itsnotmydaddys

itsnotmydaddys

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im gonna start off by telling you about my door ive posted b4 about this problem. my drivers door doesnt open from the inside, no clue wy ths is, i looked at the handle and saw the the handle is snapped, im not sure if this is the reason for the door not opening or if the cable is stretched. any suggestions please help. where can i get a new handle?
secondly i posted about this as well now its terrible my brakes are grinding extremly loud when i drove and stop. i took it to FIRESTONE today to get an estimate, the guy starts off by saying sorry. i know im trouble now. 1st off he cant take the wheels off to look at the brakes because "water gets behing the lug nuts and causes them to expand, so my tools wont fit over them. you can beat a wrench on them then youll need new nuts". so he couldnt actually see the brakes, he felt around and told me that the caliper is sticking and causing a groove to be made in the rotor. so basically he said "you have from 100 to 500 miles until your brakes completely go out". he gave me an estimate for new rotors, calipers and pads the total is 652.80. someone help me out. are brakes easy to work on. where can i get cheap parts (ebay). should i go drilled, slotted or regular. im new to brakes. ive replaced them on all my cars but never myself. HELP
IM NOT SURE IF :L
 
New calipers? What the hell for?? My first suggestion is to never go back to that backA$$wards place again! Second, if you just want OEM replacememnt rotors, NAPA, autozone,Advance etc etc etc... will have them or can get them. If you want to upgrade to cross drilled or slotted, ebay is one place to look. Pads you can get any place. Brake jobs are fairly easy and straight forward. You may need a special tool to push in the caliper piston or some just use channel locks.

BTW, try fordpartsonline for the door handle.
 
he said i need new caliper cause the pistons bleeding or something. does cross drilled or slotted matter. whats the diff.
 
oh yeah he said autozone sells junk "dont go there" he said. anyone have any links to where they got theirs or how much they paid send them my way.
 
Hows he know the pistons are leaking if he cant get the wheel off? Are you leaking brake fluid on the ground or your wheels? I say get a second opinion.

Slotted or Cross drilled rotors are for better cooling performance of the pads, adds better stopping performance.
 
I got brembo replacement rotors from Tirerack. Premium carbon metallic pads from NAPA. That guy at Firestone sounds like a tool.
 
lololol yeah he was. how much was your total for the front pads and rotors. do i need new calipers. i found on ebay some pads for 48.25 (mintex) and on fordmotorparts.com some oem rotors for 69.91. do the rotrs matter weather slotted thanks chris for calming me down
 
Get the wheels off to see if indeed you need new calipers or not.
Cant remember what i payed for pads but i believe it was near 100. These dont squeak and dust up like OEM pads so im happy. Never used Mintek pads so I cant say anything about them.
Cross drilled rotors can get stress cracks around the holes, they're paper weights if that happens. Never heard of slotted ones go bad due to the slots....
I'm no brake expert just telling my experience.

If you dont do the barkes yourself, i still recommend getting a second opinion.
 
Tina warned you about your door, i can't wait for her to tell you "told you so." FLM charged like 320 to replace both front and rear brakes and to turn the rotors, replacing them would probably be +200. The job could have been done for a lot cheaper but it was free for me so i am happy.

Whats the likelyhood that all calipers are bad and all rotors get irregular wear?

Oh and one other thing, take that estimate and let him do the job because it will cost him a lot more then 650. Here are some guesses to some parts.

These prices are similar to Fordpartsonline...
Calipers $120 X 4 = $480
Pads $90 X 4 = $360
Rotors $90 X 4 = $360
Nuts $3 X 20 = $60
Total= $1260
 
he said the back were fine, but the frint were terrible. i got a guy who will do each side for 50 bucks, should i let him do it or try it myself. im going to carx tomorrow and getting a 2nd opinion if they say new calipers where can i get some. ]
i know im wrong and boy does it feel terrible. right now i feel like im driving a 76 chevy caprice. with the loud noise from the front and me having to stick my arm out to open the door. i hope this car doesnt keep having problems
 
itsnotmydaddys said:
he said i need new caliper cause the pistons bleeding or something. does cross drilled or slotted matter. whats the diff.
Click to expand...
ones drilled and the outher is slotted you can get them bouth on the same thi
 
first - on the door - there isn't much adjustment - so likely something broke. it not too bad to work on yourself, but like any door you have to work in cramped quarters and things aren't always easy to get at. once you have your door panel off you'll see the parts that will need to be replaced.


second - on the lug nuts.... a common issue with early LSes was stripping of the studs - usually caused by someone using an impact wrench on them. to make it worse - the nuts are made of softer metal and they would round very easily. make sure to always use a 6-sided 19mm socket (not a 12-sided). the new lugs you get from Lincoln are better designed.

I have replaced several studs from having my wheels off and on 50 times over the years and they are simple to replace with a hammer.

third - on the rotors and calipers - it doesn't sound like Firestone is sure about what they are talking about. take your wheels off and look for yourself.

if the rotors are gouged - then they need to be turned or if really really scratched deeply, replaced.

if the caliper is ceased then you should be able to fix that yourself. if it's leaking - it may be an easy fix, or not - but try. once you get the caliper off - you can pull the pistons and see if you can simply clean them up - checking the seals - if the piston, seal or cylinder is scratched up then the have to be replaced.
 
whatsupadrian said:
Tina warned you about your door, i can't wait for her to tell you "told you so." FLM charged like 320 to replace both front and rear brakes and to turn the rotors, replacing them would probably be +200. The job could have been done for a lot cheaper but it was free for me so i am happy.
Click to expand...


OMG, i started cracking up when i read the title of this post!!! :) I DID indeed warn him, but did he listen, noooo..... :slam
somehow, "i told you so" just doesnt say enough.... :N

as i've said before, if the handle needs replacing, go buy a damn handle for 35$ at the lm dealer, but the way you described the problem before, it sounds like your cable inside is stripped, you'll need a new latch. $85 iirc, just for the latch. GET IT FIXED!!!! :steering
 
i was gonna get it fixed no time, working alot lately. im gonna go tomorrow and have them look at it.
 
luckieleo said:
OMG, i started cracking up when i read the title of this post!!! :) I DID indeed warn him, but did he listen, noooo..... :slam
somehow, "i told you so" just doesnt say enough.... :N

as i've said before, if the handle needs replacing, go buy a damn handle for 35$ at the lm dealer, but the way you described the problem before, it sounds like your cable inside is stripped, you'll need a new latch. $85 iirc, just for the latch. GET IT FIXED!!!! :steering
Click to expand...
:Beer
doesn't really seem like a DIYer though.
 
its not that im not a diyer its just that i get a little hesitant and think that im gonna screw things up and just make the problem worst and cause more money to be spent. i personally love d things y just a little timmid at first.
 
itsnotmydaddys said:
its not that im not a diyer its just that i get a little hesitant and think that im gonna screw things up and just make the problem worst and cause more money to be spent. i personally love d things y just a little timmid at first.
Click to expand...


hey, if you do decide to go about this one on your own, just make absolutely sure you tighten it back up good enough. you dont want it comeing loose & stretch the cable out again! i cant remember if there are rivets holding this thing down or not... if so, be sure you have a tool that you can attach some new ones back on.

get this done NOW!!!! as i mentioned in my reply to your concern a while ago, if it keeps getting stretched, or your latch is coming loose, it may eventually not even open from the OUTSIDE either!!! then you'll HAVE TO take it to the dealer & have em charge you hourly for trying to get the door panel off with the door CLOSED!!! that my friend, is NOT CHEAP!!!! :slam

you have officially been warned!! (a second time, now!) :wrench
 
man that sucks.. i found some brand new oem brake calipers on ebay about 2 weeks ago i was going to buy just to have and was thinking about painting them and the went for like 70 bucks for 2 of em.. damn.. also might just be better to stay away from drilled and slotted rotors, maybe just slotted or go back to oems and get better brake pads that don't dust up so bad.. I am still looking for good brake pads that don't dust up bad any suggestions on a good name brake pad that works without the squealing...??
 
I use Porterfield Racing Pads (R4-S High Performance Street and Autocross) dustless - and the have really shown not to fade or dust.
 
jdsimons said:
man that sucks.. i found some brand new oem brake calipers on ebay about 2 weeks ago i was going to buy just to have and was thinking about painting them and the went for like 70 bucks for 2 of em.. damn.. also might just be better to stay away from drilled and slotted rotors, maybe just slotted or go back to oems and get better brake pads that don't dust up so bad.. I am still looking for good brake pads that don't dust up bad any suggestions on a good name brake pad that works without the squealing...??
Click to expand...


NAPA ceramic brake pads. $70 for the front, $45 or so....
no squealing, less dust than the originals...
they work... you dont need something fancy unless your doing some really rough driving/braking...

mine are great and they are nothing fancy! :Beer
 
I had a sticky caliper, right rear, that righted itself after I wound the piston back in and replaced the pads.
 
luckieleo said:
NAPA ceramic brake pads. $70 for the front, $45 or so....
no squealing, less dust than the originals...
they work... you dont need something fancy unless your doing some really rough driving/braking...

mine are great and they are nothing fancy! :Beer
Click to expand...

is that 70 per side or 70 total?
 
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