What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

Just drove her today but....
The last week my battery light has been coming on for about 10 minutes and then going off again. Happens everyday and there is no lights dimming or any other problems, runs just like it always does...new!
I checked the battery voltage and the alternator, they both check out fine. What does this mean???
3 months ago I put on new....
Die Hard gold battery 1000 cca, 10 year warranty
AZ alternator, lifetime warranty
Serpentine Belt
Is there something else that would be making my battery light come on??? I'm stumped on this one unless it's the new Alt getting ready to take a crap already.
 
Box code

got a visual with my phone camera on my PCM box code (EBP2)...passed it along to Tru Dyno Sports; building and loading a custom tune for me
...also drove 160 highway miles, mostly non-stop...averaged 26.2 mpg; thank you Inertia, you're still my favorite of Newton's Laws
 
Spree said:
Just drove her today but....
The last week my battery light has been coming on for about 10 minutes and then going off again. Happens everyday and there is no lights dimming or any other problems, runs just like it always does...new!
I checked the battery voltage and the alternator, they both check out fine. What does this mean???
3 months ago I put on new....
Die Hard gold battery 1000 cca, 10 year warranty
AZ alternator, lifetime warranty
Serpentine Belt
Is there something else that would be making my battery light come on??? I'm stumped on this one unless it's the new Alt getting ready to take a crap already.
Click to expand...

98lincmk7lsc said:
i'd put my money on that alternator
Click to expand...

yeah. probably voltage regulator or diode plate is letting some ac voltage into the dc circuit. probably not long for this world.
 
Replaced my dimmer/autolight assembly. Pretty simple:

http://www.lincolnsofdistinction.org/lincolntech/modrepair/1stgenguage.html

I just pulled the headlight switch cover off. The dimmer/autolight switch just snaps out and the connector is the same. The hardest part was getting the light back in the cover, mine had a short wire connecting it. 5 min and no tools.

Now I have Autolight and my dimmer works. All kinds of little lights I did not even know existed come on, it's very nice.
 
Spree said:
Just drove her today but....
The last week my battery light has been coming on for about 10 minutes and then going off again. Happens everyday and there is no lights dimming or any other problems, runs just like it always does...new!
I checked the battery voltage and the alternator, they both check out fine. What does this mean???
3 months ago I put on new....
Die Hard gold battery 1000 cca, 10 year warranty
AZ alternator, lifetime warranty
Serpentine Belt
Is there something else that would be making my battery light come on??? I'm stumped on this one unless it's the new Alt getting ready to take a crap already.
Click to expand...
I went thru 3 AZ alts in a month , oriley in it now and all good , I don't shop at AZ any more
 
I've got the dreaded oil leak around the oil filter adapter. I'm hoping that tightening up the screws will [temporarily] stop the leaks. I've got a 600-mile trip this weekend to visit some family.

And, time for some fresh 5w-30 Mobil1 synthetic oil (high mileage)
 
Yeah I know :( But would rather do that later once I get my 94 TBird out of storage to use while this thing is taken apart.

The TBird itself has a huge trans fluid leak because the gasket in the rear casing is jacked (bolts were loose on it and overtime shredded the gasket)

Oh when will the fluid leaks stop with these cars!
 
Sapperfire said:
When the gaskets get replaced :)
Click to expand...

I could be wrong. After changing the oil tonight, and cleaning up the oily mess from the leak, I'm even more baffled about where the leak is coming from than before.

After starting her up, and waiting about 5 minutes of idling while under the car, it seemed to be 'oozing' out of one of the wiring jackets. Oil is not falling onto it either. It's coming out of this jacket. WTH??

The area around the actual oil filter adapter is dry, so I'm fairly certain it's not leaking from there.

Anyone?

oil_leak.jpg

oil_leak.jpg
 
The sender unit is a 1 wire electric sender. It's basically an on/off switch. They do leak quite often, but if it's not that, then possibly oil pan gasket, or oil filter adapter gasket.
 
Brrrrr, looks like i'll have to wait till it gets a little warmer before I do my radiator. It's going to be in the 30's this weekend.

Perhaps i'll just wait till spring.
 
The Cobra is fixed! Finally! Looks pretty good too:)
new front1.jpg

new front8.jpg

new front6.jpg

new front7.jpg

new front5.jpg

new front9.jpg

I will be going back to the body shop Monday or Tuesday to pick up the old front bumper cover, headlights and parking lights, and the (new) hood they didn't use. They couldn't use the new hood because it was damaged during shipping and (they said) the freight company wouldn't let them send it back because they took too long to report the damage. So I have a basically brand new Cobra hood that has some chips on three of the four corners. It's primer white and ready to be used. Anybody interested, send me a PM. I'll post pics when I go pick it up.

new front1.jpg


new front8.jpg


new front6.jpg


new front7.jpg


new front5.jpg


new front9.jpg
 
had the mechanic put on muffler tips, he also built an X crossover and cut it in; washed the car then "Nu-Finish"-ed the hood, roof and trunk...plasty-coated!
 
KStromberg said:
Now it's right. :D
Click to expand...
pics to come..he lowered it before I could get a photo of the x- crossover....he also stood by his position that the crossover is insignificant on an un-tuned exhaust system, I think I can tell a difference...less 'flappy'?
 
DNS your exhaust guy is sofa king we todd did.. I bet it sounds much better and probably has a tad more pep.

Thaywood, I'm still interested in what we talked about, gimme a week.

Someone should grab his hood...I could make another custom :)

Saggy, its either the OPSU or the bung stop in the adapter housing . When the OPSU goes bad, those things leak like crazy, but they're only $3-$4 in the "Help section" and take less than a minute to swap.. TIP- have your new one out of the package and ready to install before removing old one. Make sure its threads have sealer on them. Remove the one wire-its just a press on. Then loosen the sensor and slightly back it out. Oil will pour out of the hole its screwed into, but if your fast , you can do it without loosing hardly any oil

SBC, changing a radiator only takes a few minutes.. go remove fan then go warm up inside, then go remove lower hose and trans lines and go back inside, then go finish removing and go back inside.. I hate working in cold weather too.
 
Sapperfire said:
SBC, changing a radiator only takes a few minutes.. go remove fan then go warm up inside, then go remove lower hose and trans lines and go back inside, then go finish removing and go back inside.. I hate working in cold weather too.
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It's supposed to be in the 40's next weekend so i'll probably do it then. I have absolutely zero tolerance for the cold.

I'm currently sitting in my house @ 68 degrees fully dressed with a hoodie and hat on. :(
 
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