What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

finally put the white one back on the ground with new/used 1.5'' lowered coils and a new rear sway bar...I jacked up the drv side frame behind front wheel, removed that last jack stand, lowered the jack, then the jack was stuck under the car- like it was slammed...is that unusual with 1.5" lowered coils?
P3290250_zps57bd5cdb.jpg
 
dnsherrill said:
finally put the white one back on the ground with new/used 1.5'' lowered coils and a new rear sway bar...I jacked up the drv side frame behind front wheel, removed that last jack stand, lowered the jack, then the jack was stuck under the car- like it was slammed...is that unusual with 1.5" lowered coils?
P3290250_zps57bd5cdb.jpg
Click to expand...

i have lowered coils on my 97 and with my big garage jack i have to use lift up on the the front end to get the jack from under the car.
 
These don't have grease fittings. :/
I think the MUCH CHEAPER master pro ones do though.
 
Okay. Frustrated. :mad: Got the crank position sensor installed on the Cobra and the bitch still won't friggin run! Sprayed throttle body cleaner into the intake and she'll try to fire, but won't run. Now it sounds like it's not getting fuel. I'm pretty sure it's getting fire because I pulled a plug wire off one of the coil packs while my wifey turned it over and it was arcing. The fuel pump primes when the key is turned on and I'm pretty sure it's getting fuel because the pump is brand new. I'm getting very frustrated and upset. I'm about to throw my hands up and say the heck with the whole damn thing.
 
Keep cranking it a bit.. it'll take a few seconds to get the fuel back up to the rail and pressurized after a pump install

Do you have a fuel pressure tester?
 
Spree said:
OK, I think I'll have no problem making spacers for the front SRB's, this link was more then helpful! I'm gonna go with the stock ford bushings that everyone suggest.
Do the rear SRB's also have a spacer that needs to be changed?
Trying to collect all my parts before tearing this thing apart.
Click to expand...

Ok what I guess I meant was...Is there a sleeve in the front SRB's to the K-member? Or are the bushings just sand witched between the washers?
Do you leave that back nut alone when taking it apart and slip the new bushing's on and re-tighten the nut on the front? So to keep the rod as close to where it was before taking it apart?
What are the tork specs on the...
1. SRB's to the LCA
2. SRB's to the K-member
3. The bolt that goes through the back LCA
4. ball joint for LCA
Sorry for all the questions on this but it's a 1st for me. Hate suspension work! Just want to get thing's as close to straight as possible to drive the 20 miles to the alignment shop.
 
last night I unknowingly overtightened the rear sway bar end links on unloaded suspension, then put the car on the ground; tonight after work I did it right- loosened the nuts almost all the way off, drove it around the block a few times, then parked it and snugged up the end links,
---
first test drive for the white one on coils; feels okay so far, i think I hear some clunks from the front end though...i still need to cut a wire to be rid of the display center air ride message...finally glad I bought this car
 
Description N-m / Lb-Ft

LCA to Subframe 110-155 / 82-114
LCA to Shock 160-220 / 118-162
LCA to Spindle (Ball Joint) 113-153 / 83-113
LCA to Front Suspension Lower Arm Strut 120-160 / 89-118
Front Suspension Lower Arm Strut to Subframe 120-160 / 89-118

Does this sound right? Sounds kinda low to me!
 
Spree said:
Ok what I guess I meant was...Is there a sleeve in the front SRB's to the K-member? Or are the bushings just sand witched between the washers?
Do you leave that back nut alone when taking it apart and slip the new bushing's on and re-tighten the nut on the front? So to keep the rod as close to where it was before taking it apart?
What are the tork specs on the...
1. SRB's to the LCA
2. SRB's to the K-member
3. The bolt that goes through the back LCA
4. ball joint for LCA
Sorry for all the questions on this but it's a 1st for me. Hate suspension work! Just want to get thing's as close to straight as possible to drive the 20 miles to the alignment shop.
Click to expand...
The spacer gives the proper preload for the front srb's
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=74935
 
so, anyone know of a fog light switch that fits in the same place the traction control switch does?
i have one from a Taurus, but its a little skinnier..
 
Which one is the one in DLF's link? The same or do I need a set of DLF's and a set of slowmkviii's? To replace bushings on both side's of the SR?
 
Spree said:
Which one is the one in DLF's link? The same or do I need a set of DLF's and a set of slowmkviii's? To replace bushings on both side's of the SR?
Click to expand...

OK I read both link's again and it look's like there both for the same bushing....the forward SRB...correct? Why is there .200 difference in the two?
And does anyone have the spec's on the one that goes through the LCA?
 
Sapperfire said:
Keep cranking it a bit.. it'll take a few seconds to get the fuel back up to the rail and pressurized after a pump install

Do you have a fuel pressure tester?
Click to expand...

Nope. Don't have a fuel pressure tester. I have tried to prime the fuel lines by turning the key on and off several times and then starting it up to no avail. I pulled a plug wire off the coil pack and it is getting spark. And I can smell a faint gas odor under the hood so I'm fairly certain it's getting fuel. I sprayed throttle body cleaner in the intake and it will try to fire but sputter out. I am at a loss. It's driving me nuts. And we can't afford to send it to a shop so they can throw parts at it and charge us an arm and a leg for it. So I just don't know what to do.
 
well I just worked 2/3 of the day so I got home in time to see the white one in daylight and test drive it again...these pics are on a mostly level and flat surface,,,I could lower the rear a little, or not?...
P3310256_zpse1afb2ad.jpg

P3310255_zps33d30993.jpg
 
Looked at my Odometer and it was 70,022 :confused:

Wanted to take a pick when it hit 70k even but missed it :(
 
Spree
My 2.6" dimension is the same as the factory space
Once the spacers are on the the distance betweent them would be about
2.4" (iirc the spacer is .200 thick )
As for the rear srb's (to the control arm) you won't need to make anything
Ford still makes them.
 
oil change in the 98, replaced belt on the 97. started on getting the parts together for my steering coloumn swap on the 97.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 84 (members: 1, guests: 83)
Back
Top