What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

dnsherrill said:
r/r'd radiator and t-stat...tightened up the front fender wheel well liner, discovered that I have a stripped lug/stud...another penalty for buying used front end parts
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Wasn't stripped when i mailed it to you. Stupid di(k

Having to go back and tighten up things like wheel well liners only proves that you don't put things together correctly or you wouldn't have to go back and redo it.

I guess now's the time I'll mention that for all that "used" 1 month old stuff you received, I received a heavily used gear set and a trac loc that's missing pieces.

You are a class A piece of crap
 
dnsherrill said:
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okay Sniper, this car was neglected by previous owner(s), the liner was not attached when I bought it, i was hoping that was making my front end clunk noise- hoping the strut mounts are actually in good shape- wrong, strut mounts are shot out
---this back-room abortion of doing business with you is exactly why buying or trading used parts designed to wear out is a stupid idea for anyone. You received photos of what you were to get and then you got it..don't approach me with any more of your deals, it's great that you strip alot of cars and frequent JY's then troll and peddle on the forums; take it elsewhere
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Ok I understand that things aren't good between you guys and we are all aware of it, can we just stop the bs and use this forum for what its used for.
 
My Great 8 said:
Were you out by Flemington? My buddy went to a t bird show and took his black 97 with octis. You remember where he lives .
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Somerville and Manville is where I spotted em. Knew where 2 of em are cause I normally see em on roads I take but I went off my normal rout and saw the new one being washed in a Driveway in Somerville.

On the other side of things my dealership just pulled in a Suicide Door Continental that is sitting next to the Mark III now :D
 
Spree said:
System check button hasn't worked for awhile now. Took it apart and discovered plastic button is broke. Swapped it out with the n,s,e,w button and J B welded the broken one back together. Going to let it dry over night and see if it's going to hold.
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Button fix was a complete success! Should have took pic's but I didn't. Lift the back of the button out with a knife or your gonna break it, luckily it was already broke but...not any more. :)
 
Got my car back the other day

Before..paint was bubbling where it was repaired before and rear bumper looked like hell in certain light after my tree incident.

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After: hood was covered under warranty, bumper I had to pay for..oh well.

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Finally completed my first extended nightmare suspension fix. Bailed and went to springs after replacing fronts/back air bags/ compressor twice ( one used /one new) relay shot and new compressor had a leak in dryer.Arnott much better ride and correct height compared to Strutmaster done on y 96 in the past. Little squeeky on the front spring bushing but otherwis ok. Did UCArms,sway links while at it. Fell better now.

Does anyone know where the door ajar sensors are on a gen 2? When the car thinks the door is open it f.. s up a number of things. ( Gen one button in jam not so on my 97)
 
9 marks said:
Finally completed my first extended nightmare suspension fix. Bailed and went to springs after replacing fronts/back air bags/ compressor twice ( one used /one new) relay shot and new compressor had a leak in dryer.Arnott much better ride and correct height compared to Strutmaster done on y 96 in the past. Little squeeky on the front spring bushing but otherwis ok. Did UCArms,sway links while at it. Fell better now.

Does anyone know where the door ajar sensors are on a gen 2? When the car thinks the door is open it f.. s up a number of things. ( Gen one button in jam not so on my 97)
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Its inside the door near the lock mechanism. If you remove door panel and look inside you should be able to see it, unplug and turn a 1/4 turn to release it and pull it out. Spray with some lubricant and push the little button in and out a bunch of times, my guess is it is probably just gummed up.

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Took off the passenger door panel on Saturday. Replacing the window motor, yay fun fun. Anyone know how the window motor gear sits with the gear inside the door? Can't for the life of me figure it out. The car is still my Dad's but once I finish the window motor, put the door panel back on, replace the speakers, clean it up and finish the headlights its getting sold...
 
Spree said:
Power window motor and door lock actuator ordered.
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Are you positive the window "motor" is bad or is it just the bushings? Sometimes the bushings wear out and basically crumble into little tiny pieces. The motor still turns but the window won't move. I rebuilt all four motors on my Exploder and saved hundreds of dollars over buying new motors.
 
drove 50 miles to work in 45 mins., got 29mpg; drove 50 miles home, it took 2 hours; pulled DTC's; P0113 (IAT sensor) P0304 (misfire) P0411 (smog pump) and last but not least, for the first time on THIS 96, P1537, bank IMRC stuck, woohoo!
--- it ran really rough so I put in some new A/L 764's AFTER it cooled down
---pulled the stereo amp out of the trunk for replacement- no idea what a suitable replacement is
 
keVIIIn said:
Its inside the door near the lock mechanism. If you remove door panel and look inside you should be able to see it, unplug and turn a 1/4 turn to release it and pull it out. Spray with some lubricant and push the little button in and out a bunch of times, my guess is it is probably just gummed up.

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nice write up kevin but thats the very detailed way to do it, the easy way is to spray a bunch of pb blaster into the latch and slam it 10 times or so, either way you do it, thats your problem
 
Snapped the serpentine belt on the Vortech MarkVIII today on the freeway and burped out 2.5 gallons of coolant. Finally got the new belt on with the help of a friend. Try putting the serpentine belt on a centrifugal setup Mark VIII sometime. I wanted to commit suicide.
 
thaywood said:
Are you positive the window "motor" is bad or is it just the bushings? Sometimes the bushings wear out and basically crumble into little tiny pieces. The motor still turns but the window won't move. I rebuilt all four motors on my Exploder and saved hundreds of dollars over buying new motors.
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Hope it's the motor :) but there cheap anyway. Replaced the drivers side last winter and it work's great. The pass side will go down but need's help going back up, haven't opened the door yet, it's been acting funny for the last six months or so. Figure I would replace the door lock actuator (from rock auto) while I'm in there. Motor is $36 from here...http://www.1aauto.com/1A/-/Lincoln/MarkVIII.
Anyone buy anything from here before? There both on there way and should arrive by this weekend.
Drivers side motor would spin when out of the car but not when mounted. Passenger side sounds like it's skipping when trying to role up.
 
chicken said:
nice write up kevin but thats the very detailed way to do it, the easy way is to spray a bunch of pb blaster into the latch and slam it 10 times or so, either way you do it, thats your problem
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Yeah I tried the pb blaster with door slams for a while which helped with the door ajar light but then my door key pad intermittently wouldn't work and interior lights would stay on after closing the doors so I pulled that little switch out when I was replacing my door panels..wasn't too tough so long as you don't have fat arms lol.
 
Spree said:
Hope it's the motor :) but there cheap anyway. Replaced the drivers side last winter and it work's great. The pass side will go down but need's help going back up, haven't opened the door yet, it's been acting funny for the last six months or so. Figure I would replace the door lock actuator (from rock auto) while I'm in there. Motor is $36 from here...http://www.1aauto.com/1A/-/Lincoln/MarkVIII.
Anyone buy anything from here before? There both on there way and should arrive by this weekend.
Drivers side motor would spin when out of the car but not when mounted. Passenger side sounds like it's skipping when trying to role up.
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I was thinking about trying those 1AAuto.com guys because they have a bunch of great how-to videos on Youtube and seem pretty professional.

Hmm, just checked the prices. Some are extremely high.
 
dnsherrill said:
drove 50 miles to work in 45 mins., got 29mpg; drove 50 miles home, it took 2 hours; pulled DTC's; P0113 (IAT sensor) P0304 (misfire) P0411 (smog pump) and last but not least, for the first time on THIS 96, P1537, bank IMRC stuck, woohoo!
--- it ran really rough so I put in some new A/L 764's AFTER it cooled down
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---same drive, much better, new plugs and it's like a new engine, GodBless 764's! running cool and not a single miss or DTC today
:L
 
Lifted the car to check the rear shock mounts... (Toast) Noticed I was missing a plug on my bell housing. Polished my exhaust tips and cleaned the underbody. The drove 50 miles w the sunroof open and the cd changer full of Classic rock. Kansas. Tesla. Crue.
 
Hot*Mk8 said:
I was thinking about trying those 1AAuto.com guys because they have a bunch of great how-to videos on Youtube and seem pretty professional.

Hmm, just checked the prices. Some are extremely high.
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The only thing I ordered from them is the window motor, $36 shipped compared to $59 shipped from rock auto.

Your RockAuto discount code 146519147671442 will expire on June 30, 2013. If anyone want's it.
 
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