What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

Haha. I uninstalled my SensaTracs today because they were monster mushy with my car sensor lowered. Driving in a straight line was bad enough and cornering was out of the question. I put Cobra Bilsteins in and those suckers are the extreme opposite. I may raise the rear end a tad to compensate. Better than super squishy, but kinda wish I'd have found a happier medium. My American Air perches worked splendidly for those shocks as well though. Perfect fit.

The torture of waiting for this hot little number to vacate the pit so I could have my car done was... painful. 1100 miles. Black on black.

gt.jpg
 
keVIIIn said:
Hey Evan, did you order those shock mounts through american air? I need a set for my car, noticed the original ones were starting to deteriorate when I swapped to coils last fall.
Click to expand...

Yes, Eddie said it's not something he usually does(because they sell together mounts and shocks). But I called him up and explained my situation and he helped me out.

With the demand for these I don't see why he doesn't sell them alone he wouldn't have a problem selling them.
 
Epwillis said:
Yes, Eddie said it's not something he usually does(because they sell together mounts and shocks). But I called him up and explained my situation and he helped me out.

With the demand for these I don't see why he doesn't sell them alone he wouldn't have a problem selling them.
Click to expand...
he did sell them separately just a little while back, I bought a pair for my white car...Eddie even sent me one piece after I over torked and snapped one of the studs
 
I've had just about every shock possible on my car. Originally I had the oem type. I got them replaced after one blew at a shop ( I didn't know what I was doing back then) and they where replaced with gabriel shocks. Some years later I started getting annoyed by the crappy ride and thought moving to monroe after hearing the good things on here. I had both the yellow and sensa-tracs. Both where disappointing and quite unstable at a bridge I have here. I then finally broke and bought what I wanted.

g7xb.jpg


I have a mark with factory shocks and if you turn them 3/4-1 turn away from full firm it feels identical. Full soft feels like monroes and full firm has barely if any give. This is on stock tires with arrnots up front which I hope to switch to konis when the opportunity comes. Even with the arrnots up front I have chased a beamer down that bridge I talked about earlier at 100+ mph and didn't feel like the car was unstable at all at full firm. There are also many other benefits, you just have to drive one. By far my best "mod" I've done.

If anything I learned from this is that spending money on these cheap shocks cost me about as much as koni shocks which is wasted. Second buy either factory shocks or konis. The instability, roll/unresponsiveness, and traction is not worth it with the other shocks.
 
Okay. Here's what's happening lately. The front end of my car is on the ground. And the compressor won't kick in. I tried turning the air ride switch off and on a couple of times and turning the ignition on and off. Even tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to no avail. I also jacked the front end up to get the weight off the front springs to see if that would help. Nothing. I'm not sure exactly what's going on. Could it be the relay? If so, where is it located so I can switch the one from the '97 into it? I'm also going to put the 97's front air shocks in too and probably the compressor because I know it's good. I really want to start driving this car more often but I can't with the front end down like that. Can the compressor be changed out without taking the front bumper off? Also, will a Gen2 fuel pump work on a Gen1? I think fuel pressure may be part of the cause of my slow rough idle (gotta put a fuel pressure gauge on it today). I'm getting a little frustrated right now.

Also on a somewhat lighter note, the stealership said the Cobra's fixed and ready to be picked up. Turned out there was a wire under the intake that had apparently been rubbing against something and shorted out. That's why you could jiggle the wiring harness and the car would run perfectly but as soon as it hit a bump in the road it would cut off. They fixed the wire and said it was running perfectly now. I hope that's the end of it. I'm so sick of that car. But if she get's it back, I can take my Exploder and get everything fixed on it. It needs a new front bumper now because my son accidentally knocked the gear shifter into "N" and it rolled down the driveway and hit a tree :eek: Nobody was hurt or anything but the bumper has a nice warp in it now along with the front fender. I'm glad that thing's built like a tank. It takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin' :)
 
I don't have great pictures since this is from when I replaced the compressor on my 97 a while back but it is located here next to the passenger side wheel well.

om8d.jpg


This is what it should look like. It is bolted in with two 5/16 or 8mm bolts I think.

mdh6.jpg


It would sound like since your compressor isn't turning on at all it may be the relay. Now what people recommend is replacing this relay with the abs relay to see if it is the problem which is located on the driver side right behind the light on the side. When I had mine go out I flipped them and it actually didn't work and I had to buy a new relay.
 
had a new windshield put in the white one
P7270514_zpsc4afe2b9.jpg

----
P7270518_zps665672df.jpg

---he also trimmed the remaining overlap from the back window and filled the gap...it doesn't look great, but it looks better
----
P7270516_zpsf3ef667a.jpg

----
P7270519_zpsc409787a.jpg

-----
P7270520_zps16ccfc51.jpg

-----
for the brown one, put the new/used half shaft on the pass side... should the LCA bolts be torked with loaded suspension?
----
P7270517_zpse88e5606.jpg

--
remove the stand from the sub frame and just have one under the LCA?
 
thaywood said:
Okay. Here's what's happening lately. The front end of my car is on the ground. And the compressor won't kick in. I tried turning the air ride switch off and on a couple of times and turning the ignition on and off. Even tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to no avail. I also jacked the front end up to get the weight off the front springs to see if that would help. Nothing. I'm not sure exactly what's going on. Could it be the relay? If so, where is it located so I can switch the one from the '97 into it? I'm also going to put the 97's front air shocks in too and probably the compressor because I know it's good. I really want to start driving this car more often but I can't with the front end down like that. Can the compressor be changed out without taking the front bumper off? Also, will a Gen2 fuel pump work on a Gen1? I think fuel pressure may be part of the cause of my slow rough idle (gotta put a fuel pressure gauge on it today). I'm getting a little frustrated right now.

Also on a somewhat lighter note, the stealership said the Cobra's fixed and ready to be picked up. Turned out there was a wire under the intake that had apparently been rubbing against something and shorted out. That's why you could jiggle the wiring harness and the car would run perfectly but as soon as it hit a bump in the road it would cut off. They fixed the wire and said it was running perfectly now. I hope that's the end of it. I'm so sick of that car. But if she get's it back, I can take my Exploder and get everything fixed on it. It needs a new front bumper now because my son accidentally knocked the gear shifter into "N" and it rolled down the driveway and hit a tree :eek: Nobody was hurt or anything but the bumper has a nice warp in it now along with the front fender. I'm glad that thing's built like a tank. It takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin' :)
Click to expand...

That compressor is shot. It probably killed the relay. I also told you that the ride height sensors go crazy every once in a while. Install your compressor and sensors and you will be good to go. The fuel filter would also be a very good investment.
 
dnsherrill said:
will an ABS relay work there? isn't there somewhere (other than with the ABS) that the ABS relay can be used?
Click to expand...

Abs and suspension relays are interchangeable between all years. There aren't any other systems that use those particular relays.
 
new windshield wipers

ANTI-LOCK light is on. a code 61. FLS (fluid level sender) circuit error. open circuit i believe.
 
Was out at a parking lot meet last night and old High School friend knocked me off the most upper class car there :mad:
image.jpg

Then just before a MKZ gave me some crap from a stop light...he wound up seeing my tail lights :cool:

image.jpg
 
Also did a drive by of the dealership I work with and found a new acquisition :confused:


Also 1 of 2 Convertible Caddys :cool:
 
My Great 8 said:
That compressor is shot. It probably killed the relay. I also told you that the ride height sensors go crazy every once in a while. Install your compressor and sensors and you will be good to go. The fuel filter would also be a very good investment.
Click to expand...

Yep. I figured that. The compressor sounded pretty bad :( So I'll be switching them out hopefully soon. Also going to put the 97's height sensors into the 95. And I've got a brand new fuel filter ready to install as soon as I get the gumption to do it.

dnsherrill said:
i just pulled my sensors if you want em T-Wood....pay s/h they're yours
Click to expand...

Thanks. But I've got a good set on my '97 so I'm going to use those.

Hot*Mk8 said:
If he doesn't want them, I certainly do. :D
Click to expand...

Go for it babe! :Beer
 
stormfinder said:
For those wanting the pic. I sanded the blue filter off with high grit. Then removed the smoke filter from the trim and out a red filter on.
Click to expand...

Any chance you have pictures from this job? Would like to see how it was done so I can give it a shot. What filter did you use? Would like to get blue to match my dash
 
no pics, but a blue filter from ebay, about 3 dollars 20" x 24"

its really easy, remove the message center button assembly, then the headlight switch trim, then the screws above the cluster, and next to the headlight switch, then pull the big trim panel off, making sure to be gentle, yet forceful to pull it out of its clips.

After that, there are four 7mm screws holding the message center in place, unscrew them and pull the message center out.

there will be 4 T15 torx screws holding the front black plastic onto the message center, remove those and pull the bezel.

Using 2000Grit sandpaper, sand the blue filter off until the glass looks clear. Wipe with alcohol pad (or qtips) and apply your color filter.

Reassembly is the reverse of assembly
 
Spree said:
You didn't use any isolators with your springs?
Click to expand...
this is the std Strutmater kit per AAS, a square of sheet metal with bent corners and a small stud in the center for the upper locator/perch, no isolators or bottom perches...I doubt the coil base has move 0.125" in 25k miles...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 146 (members: 1, guests: 145)
Back
Top