Just sold my mark viii for 1000 fuck it got a Honda
What did you do to your Mark VIII today?
- Thread starter Blkdvll
- Start date
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
Sucks to be you
Not really I got tired of that pos it’s too heavy and too slow , I finally realized a mark viii will never be a cobra lol keep playing yourself lol
MKVIIILSC
LVC Member
so was there something about my post that made you do that? I didn't get the connection. I bought a honda for my daughter tho.
xtriggerman
Well-Known LVC Member
Just a wild guess.... seeing some one put normal upkeep on a car like the MK8 kicked over the idea that he wanted a faster car like a Cobra engine Mustang? So, rather than buying a Cobra powered unit, he buys a Honda. Not to say Honda doesn't build some decent cars but the connection between a Honda & Cobra level power is a bit nebulous without mentioning the specific Honda of choice.
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
Just wait till he finds out the Honda isn't a cobra either
Frankencougie
Active LVC Member
Made a cup holder, USB charger and audio extension ports. The cup holder drains outside the vehicle. Top momentary switch is the OD and the other is for the fog light bar.
got an offer from my salvage yard, CO cars and parts. just not ready to send the bitch down the path to recycling. tires are still good, and everything works well. and the exhaust note is sweet.
my other ride weighs seven thousand pounds empty and zero fuel. so, compared to a Mk8, an Mk8 is not too heavy. I used to have a mustang gt which was an ok car, but the road noise level was just so teenager like. I have the same performance in a much more comfortable car with low road noise. by the way, the mustang had no noise insulation that was in the right spots. I did like the stang, but well, democrats.
my other ride weighs seven thousand pounds empty and zero fuel. so, compared to a Mk8, an Mk8 is not too heavy. I used to have a mustang gt which was an ok car, but the road noise level was just so teenager like. I have the same performance in a much more comfortable car with low road noise. by the way, the mustang had no noise insulation that was in the right spots. I did like the stang, but well, democrats.
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
So keep driving the mark viii
xtriggerman
Well-Known LVC Member
I couldnt imagine giving up my Mk8. For the 5K purchase cost and the few new parts & upgrades, I'd be hell bent to get such a ride for so little. I'm passing this one down to my son when I kick the bucket. Back when I was young and did body work, I had this one for 10 years. This was my 3rd & final paint job on the 79 RS. 350 4 spd possi. with a few upgrades.
pretty much. until I find something that rings the bell and says "HEY! Look here!" I keep my eyes open but...now the car has become a hobby. the Mark is something I took as trade for a motorcycle after the Doctor told me to get off of it permanently. I've a bit of time and effort into it to get it up to my specs. 3.73 & torsen diff. new speedo drive gears, arnott air suspension bags, struts and pump with tubing(why are parts distributors so ignorant about the products they sell-I got four left front struts in a row instead of the right one I ordered), new complete front suspension, picked up a hickok tester that emulates the NGS and has all the software in it, repaired the tail lights and wiring issues causing SCIL and SCP faults. bloody heater blend door actuator three times(dirty resistor pot causes computer to lose position and drives the door into the core, weak link fails), gutted the audio amp(dead channels even with test tones injected into it) and renewed the speaker systems(paper cone JBL trash) and an AV head unit. latest jag I'm on with this car is the unavailable bushings and rubber bits for front and rear suspension. Considering molding my own with various densities of urethane. chirps and rattles are so annoying. I have one on the right front that will probably drive me batshit as it was there before the suspension work and is there still. and the trans mount rattles like a rattle snake. Eventually, it may get to the point where a guy can just drive hell out of it.
retired and seventy, I've skills from fifty five years of aircraft and industrial and electronics maintenance. the car is fun to drive and performs well, but, it's good to have a ride I can utterly depend on that is only five years younger than the mark.
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
torsen diff and truetrac are the same thing in engineering speak. the ford racing install kit has excellent bearings in it. My install was straight forward, but, see if you can find a case spreader to use before you tear into it.
issues are bias is very high in both. quite often noticeable when traction is limited by ice/snow/muskeg and the operator has made the mistake of turning the anti-skid system OFF during anything but straight line driving. Oh, ask me how I know that! It's true the anti-skid and the torsen don't care for each other, but it also doesn't care for a limited slip diff, either. and a solid spool on the street is not just ridiculous, it's dangerous. I drive up in the Rocky Mountains with it, so my experience with the torsen would be different than someone who drives in, say, kansas. Got a guy here who says he put 4.56 gearset into his car. I let him drive my 3.73 gears. he's going to swap his out again to 3.73. his was quicker, but is almost undrivable in the winter here. maybe a 4.10? don't know. one thing, I won't be going back to the open spool anytime soon.
It's really important to have the ride height set to factory specs. I know, scraping the rocker panels on the gravel looks cool but the car's suspension isn't designed for it and high speed cornering suffers. learning from others errors is cheap.
issues are bias is very high in both. quite often noticeable when traction is limited by ice/snow/muskeg and the operator has made the mistake of turning the anti-skid system OFF during anything but straight line driving. Oh, ask me how I know that! It's true the anti-skid and the torsen don't care for each other, but it also doesn't care for a limited slip diff, either. and a solid spool on the street is not just ridiculous, it's dangerous. I drive up in the Rocky Mountains with it, so my experience with the torsen would be different than someone who drives in, say, kansas. Got a guy here who says he put 4.56 gearset into his car. I let him drive my 3.73 gears. he's going to swap his out again to 3.73. his was quicker, but is almost undrivable in the winter here. maybe a 4.10? don't know. one thing, I won't be going back to the open spool anytime soon.
It's really important to have the ride height set to factory specs. I know, scraping the rocker panels on the gravel looks cool but the car's suspension isn't designed for it and high speed cornering suffers. learning from others errors is cheap.
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
I already have my diff in with 4:10s
I like it but still have to pushed it in a proper setting like autocross. I thought my trac lock was a little loose so hopefully this will be better.
I dont like factory ride hight its to tall to much body roll. High speed cornering doesn't suffer. My car is aligned at the lower hight with a few othe modifications.
I like it but still have to pushed it in a proper setting like autocross. I thought my trac lock was a little loose so hopefully this will be better.
I dont like factory ride hight its to tall to much body roll. High speed cornering doesn't suffer. My car is aligned at the lower hight with a few othe modifications.
while you can lower the ride height with the air suspension just about any where you want it, going low means less spring rate in the airbags and then there is the physical limitations of the sensors ability to accommodate the change in stroke. the stock controller is so damn sensitive to voltage when changing ride height. perhaps going to an aftermarket control system would work better. It's suggested that removing the air system and going with coil overs up front and hard coils in back with bigger sway bars is the ticket.
I like the ride I have now. for competition I would grab a mustang and massage the hell out of that things suspension for road course work. the mark is just too heavy to be flinging around a road course at speed. its a great car but there are limits. adding lightness is like adding power but, traction being equal, a lighter car is going to be faster at the corner exit.
I like the ride I have now. for competition I would grab a mustang and massage the hell out of that things suspension for road course work. the mark is just too heavy to be flinging around a road course at speed. its a great car but there are limits. adding lightness is like adding power but, traction being equal, a lighter car is going to be faster at the corner exit.
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
I have and ashem8 for ride hight control and increased spring rate. How to here
Octane: Pic - Rear airbag mod
I have 1.25" sway bars front and rear and subframe connectors
As for the car being heavy I dont care I'll never be the fastest any way.
Octane: Pic - Rear airbag mod
I have 1.25" sway bars front and rear and subframe connectors
As for the car being heavy I dont care I'll never be the fastest any way.
xtriggerman
Well-Known LVC Member
Made a rear Louver up for the car out of 2 Mustang Louvers. Base glass is very clear and tint film I
v seen on this shape of glass doesnt all ways turn out good on curved rear glass like the MK8. Gives it a little more of a fast back look.
v seen on this shape of glass doesnt all ways turn out good on curved rear glass like the MK8. Gives it a little more of a fast back look.
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
Very creative
And looks like it fits pretty nicely
Not for me but cool
And looks like it fits pretty nicely
Not for me but cool
I've been giving some thought to NOS control.
now, the engine management system calls for the IMRC to open at 3200rpm, about where one would want the NOS to shoot into the intake manifold. As I'm considering pulling the secondary throttle valves out of the intake runners anyway, I got to thinking about that actuation signal for the IMRC. wouldn't it be nice if it would energize the NOS system controller at that point? I could plumb the wet system into the secondary runners. have to pull the manifolds off anyway. To my thinking, it's going to need an uprated flow from the fuel pump for a 100 shot. one would think twenty three years was long enough for a electric fuel pump. Larger fuel lines perhaps a larger capacity fuel filter.
does anyone have any other thoughts on this or am I reinventing the wheel?
now, the engine management system calls for the IMRC to open at 3200rpm, about where one would want the NOS to shoot into the intake manifold. As I'm considering pulling the secondary throttle valves out of the intake runners anyway, I got to thinking about that actuation signal for the IMRC. wouldn't it be nice if it would energize the NOS system controller at that point? I could plumb the wet system into the secondary runners. have to pull the manifolds off anyway. To my thinking, it's going to need an uprated flow from the fuel pump for a 100 shot. one would think twenty three years was long enough for a electric fuel pump. Larger fuel lines perhaps a larger capacity fuel filter.
does anyone have any other thoughts on this or am I reinventing the wheel?
xtriggerman
Well-Known LVC Member
Just did a plugs & coils. E3 plugs & Accel Supercoils. I put the write up in How too Articles in case the basic car care guys need a guide.
balboa454
Active LVC Member
Ordered two new rear tires for my 17" wheels. I'm not going to run my 18" wheels this spring/summer.
Frankencougie
Active LVC Member
So yeah, I made a tree out of hot glue and stuff.
Frankencougie
Active LVC Member
balboa454
Active LVC Member
Nice work. I especially like the cup holder mod for the console. Nice, clean engine compartment as well.
Bullymong88
Well-Known LVC Member
That cupholder is amazing and I want one