what is going on. UCL installed**

I blocked the hole where the iac goes in. Still idles at 2k

Inside the TB*
 
Pull the throttle and cruise cables off of the TB just for giggles.
 
What all in the engine compartment did you remove when you did the control arm, just the MC?
 
95MkViii said:
I blocked the hole where the iac goes in. Still idles at 2k

Inside the TB*
Click to expand...

The iac lets air pass through if you plug it up it will idle higher cause in order to stay running it would then need to open the throttle body blades to get enough air
 
slowmkviii said:
The iac lets air pass through if you plug it up it will idle higher cause in order to stay running it would then need to open the throttle body blades to get enough air
Click to expand...

The car can not open the throttle plates on its own. So blocking the IAC would actually cause a stall.

So if the IAC was blocked, I would suspect a stall. If it did not stall, then there is certainly a vac leak.

Maybe the throttle body plates are not closing right. Check the position of the plates. Or they were cleaned, which is a huge no-no and causes high idle also.
 
sprayed the whole engine bay with carb cleaner. no vac leak.

throttle plates are closing.
 
See my last post. Did you actually block the IAC for certain? If you did and it ran, then there is a 100% probability that you have a vac leak.
 
yea i am 100% that i plugged it. and im 99.9% sure i dont have a vac leak. i sprayed carb cleaner on ever vac line possible.

if i unplug the mas she dies.
when the mas is unplugged it idles like a dog. but at 800 RPM'S
 
you have to include areas around the intake as well. not just the lines.
where the IMRC shafts exit the intake usually leaks. the intake manifolds gaskets sometime leak where the intake bolts to the IMRCs.
 
sprayed there too.

also sprayed the air inlet tube and all around the TB.
 
Something is not right. If the IAC is plugged, then its game over and it will stall since you are cutting off what SHOULD be the only air supply.

If it ran, you have a leak for sure. Wish you were closer, a second set of eyes might help.

By the way, do the Gen one intakes have plugs on the bottom of the manifold? Wonder if one of those came off.
 
And at 2000 RPM I wonder if starting fluid would really have any effect.
 
95MkViii said:
if i unplug the mas she dies.
when the mas is unplugged it idles like a dog. but at 800 RPM'S
Click to expand...

I forget, have you tried cleaning/replacing it? Thats a pretty good drop. Can only be cleaned with electric parts cleaner (non-filming) or MAF cleaner. Never touch the wires.
 
I guess at this time I would start pulling every major vacuum line. Block the t-fitting, the booster...

Or pull the intake off. Since it ran with the IAC blocked, there has to be a leak.
 
if you didnt have this problem before removing the master cylinder i am gonna say the master is 100% your problem.
 
i think your leak is going on inside the booster you may have cracked the big white donut inside the booster when you put the master back on. its super easy to crack them.
 
any way to test this? or am i going to have to remove it to test it.

wait, but if i removed the vacuum line going to the brake booster and block it. how would the booster still be leaking? is there more then one vac. line going to the booster?
 
do you have a hard brake pedal with the car running, or if you move the car do the brakes work correctly? only thing i can say is take it to a mechanic now.
 
Brakes work great.

My autoshop techer is a certified ford mechanic. And he's worked on many marks, and he's stumped!
 
Brakes work great.

My autoshop techer is a certified ford mechanic. And he's worked on many marks, and he's stumped!
 
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