what is the runing temp of a 06 lincoln ls 3.9l

04_Sport_LS said:
That right there should tell you how inaccurate the gauge is...
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It's not inaccurate, it's imprecise. Ford designed it with the (probably true) belief that most owners wouldn't understand that temperature would vary some with conditions. So, they made sure the gauge would stay dead center almost all the time, to reduce warranty complaints. They have the same theory with oil pressure gauges. Personally, I'd rather know exactly what is going on.
 
Well I took it out today. This morning we had -3 degrees and snow. It didn't warm up to operating temp even after 20 minutes of driving. It stayed around 87 Celsius. Normally she likes to reach 97. I parked, left the car for about 4 hours and returned to driving. Went to Walmart, then went to wifes work dropped off something for my wife, on the way home, temps shot WAY UP to 111 degrees Celsius, fan on full (now + 5 out). Once reaching the country road, the temp went down to 107 celsius for the duration cruising at 50mph.

So for it not to warm up in the extreme cold, that would indicate the thermostat is stuck closed, which also means the coolant cant circulate once it actually does warm up, and now overheats? Am I correct?
 
It sounds like the thermostat could be sticking closed and open.
 
Stupid dumb smart phone!!!

My response to the above quote:

Actually that would be stuck open.

I'm dealing with the same thing right now... only kinda backwards. The car will start to come to temp quickly... then you can watch the gauge drop suddenly. Then it will gradually work it way to normal temp.

So my t-stat is sticking as it opens up, and needs replaced.
 
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Unfortunately the Gen 2 thermostat can't be tested without dropping the whole crossover pipe assembly in a pan of water.... Unless they're doing one piece units for those now.
 
lincoln_zero said:
How would one know if its the water pump?

Yesterday after some spirited driving and a 1 hour drive, I pulled into my driveway and just then the fan came on full very quickly on my 2004 V8. I immediately loaded torque app, and saw the coolant was at 230, but began to decline and slowly went back to operating temp. It's done this before on occasion but not recent.

No leaks noticed, coolant level seems in the same spot as previously checked. Possible that the water pump is on its way out?
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Not sure if anyone directly answered this question on the water pump. Mine went bad last summer and there was coolant dripping all over the oil cooler. I had replaced all the plastics "above" the water pump and then saw that it wasn't working.

Also, just replaced my degas bottle after it had been replaced 3 years ago. My coolant temp has been at 203-207 on all the recent drives that I have had my OBD hooked up and obsessing on the temp.

Here's a picture of my "old" degas bottle. Sure looks a lot older than 3 years...

56321799_2147000035382489_1619132731344551936_n.jpg
 
rgorke said:
Not sure if anyone directly answered this question on the water pump. Mine went bad last summer and there was coolant dripping all over the oil cooler. I had replaced all the plastics "above" the water pump and then saw that it wasn't working.

Also, just replaced my degas bottle after it had been replaced 3 years ago. My coolant temp has been at 203-207 on all the recent drives that I have had my OBD hooked up and obsessing on the temp.

Here's a picture of my "old" degas bottle. Sure looks a lot older than 3 years...

View attachment 828571581
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How did it end up looking so rough???My 2001 Lincoln LS's original MotorCraft looked better than that?
 
SO just a couple questions:

Once the thermostat is reinstalled, do you add coolant through the cap on top of the thermostat? Or just top up at the degas bottle. Cause I'm assuming when I pull the hose, the coolant is going to spill right out.

And by extension, do I have to bleed it for air doing this?

Next question: Is it possible to buy a thermostat that opens at a cooler temperature? I would rather run cooler than warmer. Or will that not make a difference?

This is the video I found. Seems simple enough.
 
lincoln_zero said:
Well I took it out today. This morning we had -3 degrees and snow. It didn't warm up to operating temp even after 20 minutes of driving. It stayed around 87 Celsius. Normally she likes to reach 97. I parked, left the car for about 4 hours and returned to driving. Went to Walmart, then went to wifes work dropped off something for my wife, on the way home, temps shot WAY UP to 111 degrees Celsius, fan on full (now + 5 out). Once reaching the country road, the temp went down to 107 celsius for the duration cruising at 50mph.

So for it not to warm up in the extreme cold, that would indicate the thermostat is stuck closed, which also means the coolant cant circulate once it actually does warm up, and now overheats? Am I correct?
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I Forgot to mention!!!:

When this happened, I scanned and I got code P0153. Now I have had this code on and off, since buying it, and I replaced my ignition coils. '02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 sensor 1'. CEL is not on, and I can confirm, this LS was driven very lightly and has had carbon build up. Just wondering if the PCM is throwing false readouts and or if this is triggered by overheat? Thanks for our answers.
 
There is only the correct temperature thermostat. Running cooler would not help anything.
Please, only get the Ford one. People have had trouble with the aftermarket ones.

Okay - I can't stress this enough. You must fill and bleed exactly by the book! It helps if the front of the car is down hill. Don't try it with the front uphill.

Instructions: 2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
 
lincoln_zero said:
...
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Wow, just wow. So much wrong there...
Spill coolant on the drive belt (bad for the belt).
Use the wrong size sockets.
"Once piece thermostat" The correct one is three metal pieces and one plastic one.
"No gasket between the parts" (Want to bet, you must be blind.)
Use worm gear clamps.
Don't refill the cooling system. Don't bleed it.

Please avoid his videos at all costs...
 
joegr said:
Okay - I can't stress this enough. You must fill and bleed exactly by the book! It helps if the front of the car is down hill. Don't try it with the front uphill.

Instructions: 2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
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Quoting just in case anyone missed this...

You must fill and bleed exactly by the book!
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And yes he is right about the nose down part too, it makes the whole process easier on my '04!
 
AmsterDutch said:
How did it end up looking so rough???My 2001 Lincoln LS's original MotorCraft looked better than that?
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That is the question I want an answer to. My parents had this car since it had 89 miles on it. I have the receipt for all the work on it from the local dealership. My guess is that they didn’t have a new one and installed a used one. The old hose clamp was on the pipe that connects the lower bottle hose.
 
rgorke said:
That is the question I want an answer to. My parents had this car since it had 89 miles on it. I have the receipt for all the work on it from the local dealership. My guess is that they didn’t have a new one and installed a used one. The old hose clamp was on the pipe that connects the lower bottle hose.
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I agree it had to be used ...no way in hell that degas reservoir was brand new out the box
 
rgorke said:
That is the question I want an answer to. My parents had this car since it had 89 miles on it. I have the receipt for all the work on it from the local dealership. My guess is that they didn’t have a new one and installed a used one. The old hose clamp was on the pipe that connects the lower bottle hose.
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In your case the old clamp on the hose is definently suspect to say the least ...but I purchased a aftermarket degas bottle brand new .....just wanted to check out the quality compared to MotorCraft ....the aftermarket hose clamp on the product I bought was so cheap it literally broke in half, after I tried to squeeze it open...so I can see why someone would want to reuse the Ford/ Lincoln clamp ...but yeah ...your parents got ripped off ....not to get off subject but many ppl on the Forum say that AMMCO does the same thing with your transmission ...junk yard pulled transmissions
 
The Ford degas bottles that I purchased, came with the lower hose already on, using the OEM style clamps.
 
joegr said:
The Ford degas bottles that I purchased, came with the lower hose already on, using the OEM style clamps.
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Exactly .....The MotorCraft degas hose clamps should've been new on his degas hose but like he said ... The mechanic reused the old one ... Shifty
 
Thank you everyone for the replies.

Thermostat (and housing) was replaced on the weekend with FORD parts only (Car was not driven since last post). Costed about $90 CAD for parts, father in law did the work. We bleed it nose down, as per instructions. Put fresh premixed OEM Gold coolant rated for Ford. Temps are way down now. Running 88 degrees Celsius (190f) operating temp, down 10 degrees.

Worth noting: The plastic housing, as a lot would expect, was brittle and pieces were breaking off. I guess this means all the plastic is bound to fail soon. I will start getting a quote from my mechanic to replace all the plastics.

Thanks again.
 
joegr said:
Wow, just wow. So much wrong there...
Spill coolant on the drive belt (bad for the belt).
Use the wrong size sockets.
"Once piece thermostat" The correct one is three metal pieces and one plastic one.
"No gasket between the parts" (Want to bet, you must be blind.)
Use worm gear clamps.
Don't refill the cooling system. Don't bleed it.

Please avoid his videos at all costs...
Click to expand...
Oh Joe, why did you make me watch this?!?!?!?! "Just let the engine do what it is going to do!"

We don't need no crazy metric tools!!!
 
rgorke said:
Oh Joe, why did you make me watch this?!?!?!?! "Just let the engine do what it is going to do!"

We don't need no crazy metric tools!!!
Click to expand...

Could have been worse. Did you see Cold Mountain?
 
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