Which Coil packs to buy?

DaleGrib

DaleGrib

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Sorry, this one has been debated quite a bit. Search the forums. Some say the cheap ones are okay, and others say they are not and may kill your PCM. (I'm on the side of they are not okay.)
 
joegr said:
Sorry, this one has been debated quite a bit. Search the forums. Some say the cheap ones are okay, and others say they are not and may kill your PCM. (I'm on the side of they are not okay.)
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Ok Thanks! The car is not gonna be driven till the transmission is replaced. So I will save up and buy the Motorcraft set if that is needed. Otherwise I think the coil packs are likely still working on that car there are a few that I can try to swap with the OEM ones that I had on my blown motor. Or is swapping them a bad idea? I know the others are good on the other car they had not been that long since the previous owner replaced them. They are coming from a 2002 LS v8 that the motor overheated on. Also gonna go ahead and replace the Valve Cover Gaskets and the Secondary Tensioners since these older Gen 1 cars have timing chain issues as it is.
 
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Swapping is no problem, as long as the swapped in coils are good.
 
Since we communicate entirely with the 'written' word here, word choice is necessary to getting clear ideas. With that in mind, the Ford LS engine, whether a '6' or a V8, doesn't use a coil 'pack'. A coil pack has several coil connections in a single package. What our engines use is properly referenced as a 'COP', or 'coil-on-plug'. A V8, unsurprisingly, uses eight of them.

Some aftermarket, 'Hot-Rod'-type COPs, notably work just fine although you need to switch polarity on them since the Mustang coils from Accel have the connectors 'backwards'. They DO work very well. My own set have multiple years use and helped enable me to set four ECTA land-speed records, firing my own mix of C16 race gas, methanol, and nitrous oxide.

KS
 
cammerfe said:
Since we communicate entirely with the 'written' word here, word choice is necessary to getting clear ideas. With that in mind, the Ford LS engine, whether a '6' or a V8, doesn't use a coil 'pack'. A coil pack has several coil connections in a single package. What our engines use is properly referenced as a 'COP', or 'coil-on-plug'. A V8, unsurprisingly, uses eight of them.

Some aftermarket, 'Hot-Rod'-type COPs, notably work just fine although you need to switch polarity on them since the Mustang coils from Accel have the connectors 'backwards'. They DO work very well. My own set have multiple years use and helped enable me to set four ECTA land-speed records, firing my own mix of C16 race gas, methanol, and nitrous oxide.

KS
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In order to do that do you just switch each COPs wires ? I mean cut the harness and switch from positive to negative ? If so I would only need to do this at all 8 COPs right? And no wires need to be changed anywhere else I would assume. Also from what year and model mustang would I need to get them from? Thanks
 
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Or avoid the extra work and buy the Delphi off Rock Auto as a lower cost alternate.

14k and nearing 2 years still going strong Joe!
 
Ya I know. :) Just keeping my promise to you about recording the history.

Of course i would bet your referring to Visteon made Motorcrafts too.....
 
The usual process for switching polarity is to remove the harness wires from the small plastic 'plug' and reverse the holes they are in. The 'clip' part of the plug may break off since they tend to get brittle. I just push them solidly back in place and have had no trouble but it's also possible to use 'ty-rap' (brand name) often called zip ties, cable ties to hold them in place. I think it's much like wearing both a belt and suspenders to keep your trousers in place.:)

KS
 
cammerfe said:
The usual process for switching polarity is to remove the harness wires from the small plastic 'plug' and reverse the holes they are in. The 'clip' part of the plug may break off since they tend to get brittle. I just push them solidly back in place and have had no trouble but it's also possible to use 'ty-rap' (brand name) often called zip ties, cable ties to hold them in place. I think it's much like wearing both a belt and suspenders to keep your trousers in place.:)

KS
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Thanks! But which model mustang?
Edit:
Better yet link me to the ones you say to use. Perhaps it's this set? ACCEL 140032-8 SuperCoil Set | eBay
 
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@cammerfe
Also have you ever looked at just taking a wire harness set off a Mustang ? I was thinking to research that if the connectors all match up then the polarity might be correct. I am just looking to do this the cleanest way possible if I do it.
 
It wouldn't plug into the LS PCM at the very least.
 
joegr said:
It wouldn't plug into the LS PCM at the very least.
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Gotcha That is why I was gonna go check the junk yard lol easier to see them side by side sometimes. Thanks though that saved me some time.
 
I just replaced another COP today and fixed my misfire used a OEM one from my old motor and that is now sorted. Also I figured out now why it has a rough crank issue! Traced it back to the MAF, so it's coming along now!
 
@joegr
Is OEM needed on the MAF Sensor ? Also just to be sure on the 2001 LS if I unplug the MAF when the car is cranked, the motor should start to die out and cut off right? I did this on my 2001 LS and nothing happened when I did that. But on my 2006 LS it cut right out when it was unplugged.
 
I don't know specifically on the LS, but it seems that OEM MAF is strongly recommended on most cars. I do know that aftermarket EGR valves don't seem to work on the LS.

Usually if the MAF (or an air leak) is the problem, then unplugging the MAF will allow the engine to start and run, since it goes to default safe fuel levels by assuming a normal airflow. In the case of gen II, an unplugged MAF will also result in an ETC failsafe warning.
I don't think that unplugging the MAF while the engine is running is a valid test.

Note that the gen I MAF and the gen II MAF are different animals. The gen II MAF has the IAT builtin, but it is a separate part on the gen I.
 
joegr said:
I don't know specifically on the LS, but it seems that OEM MAF is strongly recommended on most cars. I do know that aftermarket EGR valves don't seem to work on the LS.

Usually if the MAF (or an air leak) is the problem, then unplugging the MAF will allow the engine to start and run, since it goes to default safe fuel levels by assuming a normal airflow. In the case of gen II, an unplugged MAF will also result in an ETC failsafe warning.
I don't think that unplugging the MAF while the engine is running is a valid test.

Note that the gen I MAF and the gen II MAF are different animals. The gen II MAF has the IAT builtin, but it is a separate part on the gen I.
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Ok thanks I tried to swap on the MAF Sensor from my 2002, onto my 2001 but I had doubts if the spare one is any good because the hood on that other 2002 would not go down cause of a wreck. So it has been getting some rain in the engine bay for the last 8-9 months but I figured I would try it atleast. I am not getting any codes for anything engine related so it's a bit frustrating to pinpoint the issue. The first crank is a little rough it misses and when finally cranking it starts to run perfect and then no more issues. If you cut it right off it will crank clean the next time but when you let it get cold again and wait like 20-30 mins the process will start all over again. I also uplugged the TPS and cranked the car up and I can say it was a lot cleaner cranking it.
 
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Also tested the alternator when the car was in drive it goes from 14.0 to 13.9 volts so I think I might have a bad alternator gonna have to have it checked in the morning before it goes into the transmission shop. If the alternator is bad is the repair about the same as the 2006 LS?

Edit: I had cleared out all the codes after testing everything and I went to move my car so I could throw a charger on the battery just in case the alternator was bad and bam got the CEL and it came up
P0122 Throttle Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input and then cleared it again and turned the car off and cranked it again and bam it was back yet again.

So I think that I know where I need to start looking now!
 
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Just my .02c ,,, but my LS hit 200k 3 weeks ago... which means my coils have 125k on them. Made in USA Borg Warner part # E418. It's a re-badged Standard Motor Products coil. Not cheap at $50 each,,, but they usually have a lifetime warranty through local auto parts stores.
 
O'Reilly's has the BWD E418P for $20/each for special order. I called BWD and there is no difference between the E418 and the E418P except the warranty from BWD, 1yr vs 3yr. However, O'Reilly's has a Limited Lifetime Warranty, so if there are any issues they are covered.
 
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