whos running cams?

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purpony

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Anyone do a cam(s) swap? What are you running?

Is there any hp gain from swapping Mark VIII cams for stock Cobra cams?
 
purpony said:
Anyone do a cam(s) swap? What are you running?

Is there any hp gain from swapping Mark VIII cams for stock Cobra cams?
Click to expand...

I've heard about 10 rwhp with the Cobra cams. Not much, but it's something if you are a number chaser and shooting for better 1/4 mile times. The duration of the cams from a Cobra are not that much different, identical on the intake side and slightly better on the exhaust side of the cams. Aftermarket options would net you a lot more, but sadly I have no input there because I don't know enough about the aftermarket cams.
 
You have it backward, the exhaust cams are the same not the intake, and the duration difference is a decent amount, but once again its alot of work for small (10-20hp) gains. Unless you were rebuilding i don't see any cams as a worthwhile upgrade (horsepower per dollar spent) on a 4.6 DOHC.

-Alan
 
cams

youtube some mustang cams --- they sound pretty sweet - i will buy them just to hear the lope - hope to this summer --- wouldn't give a darn if it takes a week to change them - O - and the headers soon - and the duels ---- and the gears and posi -- and the wheels --- here we go again ---- looks like i'd learn :cool: 58 years old - 38th wedding anniversary today:eek: -- o o o and the 6 speed --
:p
 
You need to hear Jason's car (thegr81). He has some sort of crazy cams. I had a chance to ride behind him in my '98. His car is so loud that I can hear it with the A/C on and radio playing! It sounds great at idle. I can't believe he hasn't commented in this thread.
 
The cobra intake cams have like 20 more degrees duration 184 vs 204. The exh cams are the same mk8 vs cobra.
 
lobird91 said:
You have it backward, the exhaust cams are the same not the intake
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I stand corrected. You sir are right. I'm dyslexic. :p

As far as the duration, 20 degrees? Not significant enough for me. If I can run 12s NA with a particular set of cams, then we're talking and I'm sure it's going to take a bit more than that. ;)
 
Cam specs for ya.
Mark VIII.
intake, 184 deg dur, .397" lift exhaust, 196 deg dur, .397" lift

Mach 1, 03/04 Cobra, Aviator, Marauder, Navigator Intake: 184 deg @ .050/.397" lift (measured duration)Exhaust: 196 deg @ .050/.397" lift 114 LCs

96-98 Cobra intake PN#s F6ZE-6A270-AB crosses to F6ZZ-6250-AA F6ZE-6A271-AB crosses to F6ZZ-6250-BA

Intake: 202-204 deg @.050/ .397 lift Exhaust: 196 deg @.050/.397 lift 114/114 LCs

99/01 Cobra Intake: 200 deg @.050/.397 lift (measured duration) Exhaust: 196 deg @.050/.397 lift 114 LCs

FR500 (M-6550-T46) intake: 212 deg @.050 /.472 lift (measured duration) exhaust: 208 deg @.050 /.472 lift (measured duration) 109 LCs

GT Cams: (actual as tested numbers, not Ford specs) Intake: 189 @ .050"/.424 lift (measured duration) Exhaust: 190 @ .050"/.448" lift (measured duration)

COMP DOHC Cam Specs:

Part Number: 106060 Grind Number: XE254BH-116 RPM Range: 1000-5000 Intake: 218 deg @ .050/.425" lift Exhaust: 218 deg @.050/.425" lift 116 LCs

Part Number: 106100 Grind Number: XE262AH-114 RPM Range: 1200-5400 Intake: 226 deg @ .050/.425" lift Exhaust: 222 deg @.050/.425" lift 114 LCs

Part Number: 106160 Grind Number: XE266BH-116 RPM Range: 1500-6000 Intake: 230 deg @ .050/.425" lift Exhaust: 230 deg @.050/.425" lift 116 LCs

Part Number: 106200 Grind Number: XE270AH-114 RPM Range: 1800-6200 Intake: 234 deg @ .050/.425" lift Exhaust: 230 deg @.050/.425" lift 114 LCs

Part Number: 106300 Grind Number: XE262AH-114 RPM Range: 1500-5800 Intake: 226 deg @ .050/.425" lift Exhaust: 224 deg @.050/.425" lift 114 LCs

Part Number: 106400 Grind Number: XE270BH-114 RPM Range: 1800-6200 Intake: 234 deg @ .050/.475" lift Exhaust: 232 deg @.050/.450" lift 116 LCs

Part Number: 106500 Grind Number: XE278AH-114 RPM Range: 2200-6500 Intake: 242 deg @ .050/.475" lift Exhaust: 240 deg @.050/.450" lift 112 LCs

Part Number: 106260 Grind Number: XE258BH-116 RPM Range: 1200-5800 Intake: 222 deg @ .050/.475" lift Exhaust: 224 deg @.050/.450" lift 116 LCs

Part Number: 106360 Grind Number: XE266BH-116 RPM Range: 1500-6000 Intake: 230 deg @ .050/.475" lift Exhaust: 232 deg @.050/.450" lift 116 LCs

Part Number: 106460 Grind Number: XE274BH-116 RPM Range: 2000-6400 Intake: 238 deg @ .050/.475" lift Exhaust: 240 deg @.050/.450" lift 116 LCs

Crower DOHC Cam Specs:

Stage 1 Part Number: 62820-4 RPM Range: Stock Idle to 6800 Intake: 192 deg @ .050/.421" lift Exhaust: 204 deg @.050/.430" lift

Stage 2 Part Number: 62821-4 RPM Range: Slight Lope at Idle - 7000 Intake: 210 deg @ .050/.472" lift Exhaust: 216 deg @.050/.473" lift

Stage 2 S/C Part Number: 62822-4 RPM Range: Slight Lope at Idle - 7250 Intake: 222 deg @ .050/.475" lift Exhaust: 222 deg @.050/.475" lift

Stage 3 Part Number: 62823-4 RPM Range: Rough Idle - 7500 Intake: 228 deg @ .050/.484" lift Exhaust: 232 deg @.050/.484" lift

Stage 3 S/C Part Number: 62824-4 RPM Range: Rough Idle - 7750+ Intake: 228 deg @ .050/.484" lift Exhaust: 228 deg @.050/.484" lift

Stage 4 Part Number: 62825-4 RPM Range: Rough Idle - 7800+ Intake: 236 deg @ .050/.486" lift Exhaust: 244 deg @.050/.495" lift


Pulled these from a couple of other forums.

Cobra R specs: Intake: .515'' lift 212 deg dur @.050 Exhaust: .468'' lift 212 deg dur @.050
 
sorry just got in theyre competition cams 106100 good for 390 hp in a 98 cobra. the only diff i dont have is the intake right now. still needs dyno tune to dial everything in supposed to happen last week but having money issues. weve debated long and hard over swapping for the cobra cams and unless the motor is already apart the gains arent worth it. properly degreed maybe 10 possibly 15 hp hence the rating of 305 for 98 cobra vs 290 lsc.the cams after extensive debate yes the exhaust cams are the same and there is a little more duration on the intake, not enough to tear apart motor for no real gain. i kept with the 106100 because of the rpm range id be in and didnt have $ for the higer stall converter at the time, and it will work well with the gears im going to put in. you also have to remember, even though you can use stock b head springs, i changed them anyways anything more than a .425 lift and your first looking at valve float from springs and the duration theyre being held open, piston to valve clearance becomes a problem especially when choosing a head gasket could vary.001- .010 inch. ive got a nice lopey idle when i had tranny redone i put a 400 rpm over stock stall in ( at no extra $) it was from a truck i forgetwhich one. im at a stall in project now so at this point the daily drivability with the cam especially with a/c on and the stock rear end the cruising rpm for cam says 2600 rpm which essentially means your in the lower end of the power curve and you can really feel the pull up to where it says 5400-but its more like6000 rpm, which is why i need dynotune to find out where everything is. hopefullythe next addition will be the trac loc and gears, then the intake. paint is stilll first on the list but im in an argument over getting that done because " it doesnt need to look pretty its still a piece of gas guzzling crap" oh and it does chew up the gas.its funny with the economy on at w.o.t. says 7.5mpg. normal cruising about 17 mpg and with my highway 3.27 if i stay at 1800-2000 rpm aruond 70mph i can get 19-20.my problem is here in south fla everyone drives fast, i religiosly cruise at 100. part of the reason formy switch to 4.10 is to keep my cruising speed down. not that i wont go that fast,just not all the time.
bottom line if you have the motor apart and acess to other cams such as cobras go ahead, hell even if you want to screw around go ahead, but dont get hopes up. the mark motor and the cobra are so similar its like your face if you dont shave for a day or two.if you want power the old fashioned way, cams,remember theres 4 of them.
and how areyou gonna drive your car? looking back i probably could have went a little more with the cam the 106300 but lift went to .475 ( there are a few mistakes on your chart ja,no biggie) but good info you can get it all here along with recommendations for throttlbodies,injectors, converters, yrs or no with computers,gears etc.you get the idea
http://www.compperformancegroupstor...=CTGY&Store_Code=CC&Category_Code=106-CAMXRPM
if you can do it i recommend it, remember its not like building my old 5.0 and ordering the x 303 cam (which had to have special forged and flycut valve reliefs to work with the trick flow heads) because its only one cam. $275 done. 4 cams all different $1400 plus shipping.i got a deal at christmas for 1000 shipping included on that cam. i was gonna get the 106300 and do all the other stuff for another 100 hp on top of what the one i got, but take what you can and go with it, im happy i can drive while still waiting on other mods and when you hop on the throttle and pass people with the sound of all hell breaking loose and they wont even roll the window down at the next light, priceless.will post idle sound tomorrow, but heres grabbin' 2nd at 6000 rpm while still working out bugs in tune
th_IMG_0440.jpg

:invasion::invasion::invasion::invasion:
 
I went with the FR500 set up because I got a smoking deal on them.
Stainless valves, matching springs, retainers, keepers, and cams new for.. Dare I say it.. $300!
I did go with the 4 valve relief pistons at 11:1
With specs with in the range of the stage 2/3 its not a bad deal. I'll change the advance on the exhaust cam to be a little more SC friendly too :)
 
I don't mind seeing the removal procedure but the install with the hard screwdriver against the cam lobe freaks me out.
 
protection

Yaa me too -- he could of used some protection :D - you and i would of --- hell even a little black tape !

0255.jpg
 
Right on the Mark said:
I don't mind seeing the removal procedure but the install with the hard screwdriver against the cam lobe freaks me out.
Click to expand...

It works, done it twice before. Make sure you have spare lifters around, knicked a couple of them, even with the tape on. You just gotta be careful and have patience. Oh, and it was with the head still on the car. Angled needle nose pliers and a magnet help alot to.
 
talked to the guys at bbr ( blow by racing) theyre in boca. nice guys and shop, just couldnt get in to see them looooonnnnng waiting list.
 
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