Why 2 keys for programming

[FDR]

honestly, your best bet is to just go to the dealer, and buy two keys from them and have them program it, there will only be once charge for programming keys so its silly not to have them do a second one at the same time.

The dealership will tell you it takes an hour and they charge you $100, it's not true.

Most dealers and shops charge a minimum of 1 hour of labor for non-standard service. Oil changes and filter changes are flat rate, but most other things start at 1 hour. My dealership charges $120/hour.

It's also not just a matter of plugging the computer in. The writer has to document and move your vehicle, a tech has to be available, it takes time to cut the key, and as mentioned, there is a security delay. Sure, that may not add up to 1 hour total yet, but that's why it's worth it to either get multiple keys cut at once (and pay the same labor), or try to add it on to some other dealer service so you only get charged an extra 15 minutes (advanced dealer-customer relationship may be required).

I'm not saying the 1-hour minimum charge is the most moral thing around, but it's not uncommon.

 

[Elemino]

This.



True, except that it takes just over 10 minutes. (There is a built-in ten minute security delay enforced by the car's PCM.)

I suppose you're right, we were standing there about 10 minutes, but as I recall most of the time was waiting for his computer to boot, maybe I'm wrong. I know that after 15 minutes I had paid and I was on my way.

 

[Elemino]

Most dealers and shops charge a minimum of 1 hour of labor for non-standard service. Oil changes and filter changes are flat rate, but most other things start at 1 hour. My dealership charges $120/hour.

It's also not just a matter of plugging the computer in. The writer has to document and move your vehicle, a tech has to be available, it takes time to cut the key, and as mentioned, there is a security delay. Sure, that may not add up to 1 hour total yet, but that's why it's worth it to either get multiple keys cut at once (and pay the same labor), or try to add it on to some other dealer service so you only get charged an extra 15 minutes (advanced dealer-customer relationship may be required).

I'm not saying the 1-hour minimum charge is the most moral thing around, but it's not uncommon.

What do you mean by "document and move"? I only had the key made at the dealership, it was a mom and pop locksmith that programed the second key for me.

 

[joegr]

Dealerships have to do paper work. The ones I have been to also drive your car into the shop area, and then when they are done they drive it back out for you to get in and go.

 

[Elemino]

Dealerships have to do paper work. The ones I have been to also drive your car into the shop area, and then when they are done they drive it back out for you to get in and go.

Ohhhhh!! lol

Well, since the dealership didn't program for me, that wasn't part of the experience. I got my key from the dealership, but that was just a walk to the parts counter. The locksmith programmed my key in the parking lot while I stood there and talked to him.

 

[Flynbrd]

Well the dealership today wanted 180$ to program a new slave key! I said no way (because I was quoted around 100$ on the phone). Service writer stated that it took a hour to program; why the price was so high. Right unless the guy is writing code at the terminal no way it should be that high. He then lowered it to 100 to honor the over the phone quote. He wanted to charge 260 for the transmission flush, this price was without new filter. I was told that with "These" transmissions there's no need to change the filter.

 

[LS4me]

Well the dealership today wanted 180$ to program a new slave key! I said no way (because I was quoted around 100$ on the phone). Service writer stated that it took a hour to program; why the price was so high. Right unless the guy is writing code at the terminal no way it should be that high. He then lowered it to 100 to honor the over the phone quote. He wanted to charge 260 for the transmission flush, this price was without new filter. I was told that with "These" transmissions there's no need to change the filter.

Sounds about right..... An hour's labour to code the key (I hope you added at least 2 remotes!!) BTW, I don't remember you posting the year of your LS.

Same with the trans flush. Even my indy charges close to that. When I sold my '06 it had 138K miles, had (for sure) 2 trans flushes and the original filter. I've heard from a transmission guy that if your filter needs changing you have much bigger problems that a flush won't help. Once the filter has debris the trans needs work!!

 

[Flynbrd]

Well the dealership really came through. Only charged us 80 for the key and free inspection of the ball joints(originally they wanted 130$) and steering. (The car had a slight faint thump sound with going over bumps on the driverside.) He mention the ball joints were replaced not too long ago and very looks fine. The test drive yielded the same sound but they are clueless as to what it is.

 

[LS4me]

Well the dealership really came through. Only charged us 80 for the key and free inspection of the ball joints(originally they wanted 130$) and steering. (The car had a slight faint thump sound with going over bumps on the driverside.) He mention the ball joints were replaced not too long ago and very looks fine. The test drive yielded the same sound but they are clueless as to what it is.

That sounds like stabilizer bar bushings.

 

[1LoudLS]

The car had a slight faint thump sound with going over bumps on the driverside.

check the front anti-roll bars bushings/mounts. when they go bad, you'll get a noise over every bump.

 

[1LoudLS]

That sounds like stabilizer bar bushings.

lol, beat me by a couple of minutes!

 

[Flynbrd]

So if I understand this right, I should check the sway bar bushings and the stabilizer bar end links that connect the bar to the spindle.?

 

[LS4me]

So if I understand this right, I should check the sway bar bushings and the stabilizer bar end links that connect the bar to the spindle.?

Can't really check the stabilizer bushings. The 2nd gens are molded to the bar (I still don't know year & engine). The end links are pretty easy to change, but my experience is the anti-sway bar bushings are the most likely suspect. Been discussed here many times....

 

[Flynbrd]

Can't really check the stabilizer bushings. The 2nd gens are molded to the bar (I still don't know year & engine). The end links are pretty easy to change, but my experience is the anti-sway bar bushings are the most likely suspect. Been discussed here many times....

Thanks for the info, I'll look into some poly replacements.(read somewhere that you have to cut off the old bushing) The car is a 2004 v8 ls with 90k miles on it, overall great shape. The sway bar setup is very similar to my 90 sc tbird.

 

[FDR]

Yes, gen 2 needs bushings cut off. Energy Suspension makes poly bushings that sort of work, but they are too narrow, so the sway bar can slide left and right.

By "ball joints" are you sure they checked the upper control arm ball joints? I only ask because those ball joints are not replaceable; they need the whole arm to do it

My knocking noise was a three partner: one sway bar bushings, one upper ball joint, and one loose piece of foam/plastic insulation on the fender.

 

[Jack Flash]

One of my remotes no longer works. It began by unlocking/locking my door only, to nothing
at all in one day. Everything was working in the morning, to nothing come night time. Bought
new battery, replaced it, still nothing. From what I've read in this post, and other threads, I'm
screwed going to the dealer to have it reprogrammed since I own a gen 1. Have I missed something
in order to avoid the dealer ?
I am presently using my second remote, and this one works like a charm.

Thanks guys.

 

[joegr]

You are correct. Gen I remote = dealer must program.
(I think there are some key/remote related programming tools that you can buy on e-bay to let you do this yourself, but the cost would be impossible to justify for something you would rarely use.)

 

[toby1234]

Just wanted to let you guys know that autozone can make you a spare key even if you only have 1 key. I was skeptical because of everything I've read on here. I bought the car and only have one key. I gave them a shot and sure enough, the new key works just fine. Took less than 5 minutes to cut and program the spare. Cost was $74.99 plus tax.

 

[joegr]

Just wanted to let you guys know that autozone can make you a spare key even if you only have 1 key. I was skeptical because of everything I've read on here. I bought the car and only have one key. I gave them a shot and sure enough, the new key works just fine. Took less than 5 minutes to cut and program the spare. Cost was $74.99 plus tax.

What they do is clone your existing key. As far as the car is concerned, you still only have one key. You still won't be able to add keys yourself, or get into secure mode. Since you probably won't need to do that, you probably did come out ahead.

 

[1LoudLS]

yep as mentioned on the first page, some places will clone/copy the key. as long as starting the car is the only thing that matters then you'll be fine, however if you ever need to add another one, or need the dealer to program or replace some of the modules, then its not gonna work...



personally, I will never have less than three keys, with at least two of them being proper different coded keys in my safe box at home, that way, if I ever lose my key, I can always just program my own key and never have to pay a dealer for the service again! its so much nicer just to buy a $20 key and have it cut...