Window Regulator - Plastic Runner Clips Available

Mine came from Turkey... Of all places... Why the hell is turkey producing parts for an american car...
 
The transit connect is assembled in Turkey. I expect there is a huge supplier park close to the plant with at least one plastic injection molding supplier. Low cost.

Have your clips held up?
 
Gary Vogeler said:
The transit connect is assembled in Turkey. I expect there is a huge supplier park close to the plant with at least one plastic injection molding supplier. Low cost.

Have your clips held up?
Click to expand...

Yes they're about 2 years old now and holding up well. They were the only option I could find.
 
Clips arrived today so I finished the replacement. Manufacturing source is unknown. May be the ones from Turkey, not marked. SeaPro, were your clips from Turkey grey?

Pic of the clips.
IMG_20170605_1727033_rewind.jpg


And mandatory stress relief from a local supplier.
IMG_20170605_1730539_rewind.jpg


Followed the instructions provided in V-8s post for removing the door panel and loosening the inner metal panel and loosening the window clamps. Need to also disconnect the cable to the door open lever. Works well if the window glass is all the way up. The inner panel can then be leaned out to access the clips.
IMG_20170605_1753003_rewind.jpg


I had already removed the rear clip before I remembered to take the photo. Need to have the window held in place, I picked up a few plastic putty knives that worked well.
IMG_20170605_1800598_rewind.jpg


Rear clip is easiest, just pops off and the new one pops on like in the youtube video. I had to drop the window a few inches to get some cable slack to install the new clips. Front clip is a bit tougher. I clamped a needle nose vise grip to the lower cable to keep it on the lower pulley. Once the clip is off the new clip takes a little force to connect. The spring end is inserted first followed by the other end. Once together, it will look like this.
IMG_20170605_1804576_rewind.jpg


The inner panel can then be reinstalled and the 7 bolts tightened. The window clamps will be down a few inches so the controls need to be reconnected and the window carefully raised. Once the clamps are back in the proper location on the glass, the clamps can be tightened. Reconnecting the controls and testing at this time is recommended. If all has gone well, it moves freely without binding and abnormal noises.

Reassembly is just the reverse of the disassembly.

My clips had not completely failed but the rear one was close.
Rear clip.
IMG_20170605_1753085_rewind.jpg


Front clip.
IMG_20170605_1801063_rewind.jpg

For $6, I hope I get my money's worth.

I rate this as a 2 beer job.
 
I purchased from regulatorfix. Purchased last Thur evening, shipped from MI on Fri, arrived in KY on Mon. Window operating without creaking for the first time in years.
 
Gary Vogeler said:
SeaPro, were your clips from Turkey grey?
Click to expand...

Those look identical to the ones I bought from Turkey. Glad you were able to get it sorted out. My regulator got all screwed up when I did mine... The cable bound itself up on the drive. NOT a fun job.
 
If I can get a few years out of them then they will have been worth the $. They are a hard plastic and the OEMs appear to be nylon.

Since the window mechanism was still working, I didn't want the cables to come off the pulleys which is why I loosely clamped the vice grips to the cables near the pulleys. Also didn't want to kink the cables and create a stress point that would lead to a cable failure.
 
Great timing for me!!! My passenger side window went screwy last week. Opened up the panel and found the clip in pieces in the door. Ordered clips and they should be here tomorrow!!! Much better than $100-$200.

clips.jpg
 
rgorke said:
Great timing for me!!! My passenger side window went screwy last week. Opened up the panel and found the clip in pieces in the door. Ordered clips and they should be here tomorrow!!! Much better than $100-$200.
Click to expand...

In general, if your window still goes up and down (just badly instead of smoothly), then these clips are just what you need. However, if the window no longer closes by itself, the regulator is toast and you will need to replace the whole regulated. Amazon has the Dorman regulator for $50, but be warned there is no lifetime warranty when buying it from Amazon.
 
joegr said:
In general, if your window still goes up and down (just badly instead of smoothly), then these clips are just what you need. However, if the window no longer closes by itself, the regulator is toast and you will need to replace the whole regulated. Amazon has the Dorman regulator for $50, but be warned there is no lifetime warranty when buying it from Amazon.
Click to expand...
Yeah, mine goes down and up, just cockeyed. I also reached in and felt both cables still taut and in their tracks.

Gonna do this first THEN I have to tackle the replacement of noisy sway bar bushings. Those came today. Car needs lots of attention but I really like it...nearly 209,000 miles.
 
Well, I hope my regulator isn't toast now....my wife takes my car and proceeds to roll the window down. Granted, the entire passenger side panel is off and all you see is the door frame. "I didn't know, why didn't you tell me?" UGH!!!! And she wonders why I don't like others driving my car.

I think the other clip disintegrated in the process. I'll have to check to see if I now have to get a whole regulator.
 
Yeah, I learned sometime back to always unplug the motor in cases like this.
 
So, I got my clips today. The ends go in one clip and the other clip fits over the "thing" on the other side. My problem is that my cable got a bit tangled on the spool and now I am either an inch or two short to put the ends into the clip or there is a lot of slack in the cable. Do I just need to compress the spring(s) and force it together w/o breaking anything?

Anyone have a similar experience? I have the motor off the regulator and am trying to get it back together.
 
Ordered the drivers side clips from the seller "RegulatorFix" on Amazon. Received them on the 19th and installed today, quick easy $6 fix. Wish that would have been the case some months ago when I replaced the passenger side regulator with a factory one, but in that case the cable was damaged.
 
Wish I read this thread before trying to jimmy my window back into position. It was going up but cockeyed from being opened during the polar vortex. Now I realize trying to force it broke the regulator as the window simply falls if not held up...shit
 
Blk04LS said:
Ordered the drivers side clips from the seller "RegulatorFix" on Amazon. Received them on the 19th and installed today, quick easy $6 fix. Wish that would have been the case some months ago when I replaced the passenger side regulator with a factory one, but in that case the cable was damaged.
Click to expand...

Well the drivers side has given up now, but sadly these are not going to be the ultimate fix. Although the rear one was broke, the regulator itself has to be replaced because the tension spring retainer at the pulley/motor assembly broke.

joegr said:
In general, if your window still goes up and down (just badly instead of smoothly), then these clips are just what you need. However, if the window no longer closes by itself, the regulator is toast and you will need to replace the whole regulated. Amazon has the Dorman regulator for $50, but be warned there is no lifetime warranty when buying it from Amazon.
Click to expand...

Joe, correct me if I am wrong , but it looks like you reviewed the LHF Dorman regulator on Amazon, how's it holding up 2yrs later?
 
Unfortunately, I can't reliably recall exactly how they did. I have two LSes, and both now have some of the Dorman regulators. I know that I had to replace the plastic clips on at least one of them after a year or less. I feel that the gamble of buying them at Amazon (for half the price of the local auto store) did not really pay off. You don't get the warranty buying from Amazon. I ended up buying replacements at the local store, and doing warranty replacements there more than once. I feel like it's been at least a year since the last time.
Disclosure: I also replaced the regulators in my BMW (RIP) a few times, and some of those were Dorman too. I may be mixing in some of my memories of that too.
 
No problem , in your review on Amazon you mentioned that it was staring to make noise, so I was not holding out much hope for good news anyway.

I am going to stop by the local dealer and see if they will flex on the price some... if they can even get the LHF unit, seems like that one is not available anymore (it's not currently available from Tasca.)

If they won't flex on price or simply can't get it I will likely buy a Dorman unit from Advance Auto. Right now they have free shipping over $25 along with 25% off ship to home orders. So the regular $90 price tag is lowered by $22.50. Brining it closer to the Amazon price, while still maintaining the warranty.
 
Going with a factory part, the dealer lowered the price and had it the same day. Not that the delivery date mattered on a Monday since I won't be installing it until this weekend anyway.

Without knowing it they ended up bringing it down to the same price the Dorman unit would have been without any discounts, 90 bucks.

So after searching by part number on Tasca it is still available, even though it does not come up when I search by vehicle. But at 90 bucks locally, it was lower than the cost of the part with shipping from them.
 
Weather was nice and I had the time after work so I went ahead and replaced it today.

Here's a picture of both the new and old regulators, showing the point of failure.

LincolnLSWinReg.png
 
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