Same issue here woth my 2000 new bulb and voltage to the wires it blinks fast in the dash park wont work either just sometimes do u know what it might be?
Windshield Wiper/Turn Signal Switch
- Thread starter LSV8FAN
- Start date
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Left Turn Signal Failure...
Does any1 know if the 2000 ls have turn signal flasher relays? I check the bulb, the fuse, the wires running to the fuse box under the passenger side dash, i have every took the light housing and plugged it in the passenger side to check the bulbs and they worked fine... but when I put test...
www.lincolnvscadillac.com
Sorry kind of the wrong post to post this but i read someone here had same issues but im talkingg about the front left blinker the right one works but Where is the relay for the blinker? I read its in the fem but i changed ssp1 and fuses got voltage on the wires but wont light the bulb and sometime it does sometimes it flash and sometimes it doesnt go on and im talking about the blinker its on the park light so i have no blinker and park on the left thanks 04
SultanGris
Dedicated LVC Member
Sounds like your bulb isn't working on the outside of your car? This thread is about the switch inside on the steering column going bad.
Did you try a new bulb? Have it installed properly? You test voltage inside the plug? If there's voltage at the wires in the plug and it won't light up then the bulb is bad I'd say.
Strange I put some power to the bulb with my power supply and it works and there is voltage at the wires but ill buy a new one tomorow just to see but for now i wired it onto my low beam bulb since i never use my high beams
SultanGris
Dedicated LVC Member
You sure it's the right bulb? Some have 2 elements in them for blinker and parking and usually only one burns out, some cars have a separate bulb for each. I'm not sure how this car is
SHORod
LVC Member
Are you testing for voltage at the socket using a multimeter or an old-school test light? If you have a poor or corroded connection somewhere in the circuit, the high input impedance of a multimeter could still read what looks like good voltage, but the connection/corrosion may not be able to supply enough current to light a standard bulb. If you use an old-school (ie: not and LED) test light, it should draw enough current to indicate whether there is actually "good" voltage getting to the bulb socket.
-Rod
I used a non led test light and have a multimeter voltage is good but re checked it today and when I plug the bulb the wires read 0v with it plugged in so i read it can be bad connecton somewhere but checked the whole harness behind the light and it looks fine, shaked the harness going to the passeger side and no change. should i look the FEM? and where is it located thx guys
Last edited:
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Positive power to the bulb comes from the SSP circuit. It should be present anytime the car is awake. Negative power to the bulb is switched by the FEM. It should switch on and off if the key is on and that turn signal is activated, or with the hazard switch (key does not have to be on).
thanks for the reply joe, I know you are very intelligent and know alot about the ls and electronics,,, but i dont really understand what ssp is, im guessing its the relays in the trunk?
but why would the wires read 0v with the bulb plugged in the socket and Unplugged Its at 11.8v with car not running but key on and the lights on
but why would the wires read 0v with the bulb plugged in the socket and Unplugged Its at 11.8v with car not running but key on and the lights on
SHORod
LVC Member
Power to the front left turn signal bulb is provided by fuse F210 (5 Amp) in the Central Junction Box (CJB). The right turn signal bulb gets power from the CJB via fuse F208. And like joegr pointed out, the bulbs should have power at all times. Ground to activate the parking light or turn signal is from the Front Electronics Module (FEM).
One thing you might try is to run a dedicated ground via a jumper wire and back probe to the ground of the bulb (Black/White tracer wire at the bulb socket or Black/Blue tracer, it's unclear from the wiring diagram which is parking and which is signal). If the turn signal filament lights up this way, you know the issue is either the ground wire between the bulb and the FEM or within the FEM itself. If the bulb still doesn't light, then the issue is with either the power wire to the socket, fuse F210, the contacts for the fuse within the CJB, or power to the fuse. Since you read voltage with your meter/test light, it would likely be a corrosion/connection issue in the supply circuit rather than a blown fuse.
When you measured "0V with the bulb plugged in the socket" what were you using as your ground reference? If using a chassis or battery ground, then I'd definitely suspect a corrosion or connection issue with the supply circuit. The bulb is providing a relatively low impedance path to ground through the FEM and sinking what little current is available to the bulb to ground, causing you to measure little to no voltage at the socket. Since neither the parking light nor the turn signal work, it seems less likely to be the FEM and more likely to be the common supply to both.
The CJB is located in the right hand front footwell and the FEM is located at the left hand A pillar.
-Rod
One thing you might try is to run a dedicated ground via a jumper wire and back probe to the ground of the bulb (Black/White tracer wire at the bulb socket or Black/Blue tracer, it's unclear from the wiring diagram which is parking and which is signal). If the turn signal filament lights up this way, you know the issue is either the ground wire between the bulb and the FEM or within the FEM itself. If the bulb still doesn't light, then the issue is with either the power wire to the socket, fuse F210, the contacts for the fuse within the CJB, or power to the fuse. Since you read voltage with your meter/test light, it would likely be a corrosion/connection issue in the supply circuit rather than a blown fuse.
When you measured "0V with the bulb plugged in the socket" what were you using as your ground reference? If using a chassis or battery ground, then I'd definitely suspect a corrosion or connection issue with the supply circuit. The bulb is providing a relatively low impedance path to ground through the FEM and sinking what little current is available to the bulb to ground, causing you to measure little to no voltage at the socket. Since neither the parking light nor the turn signal work, it seems less likely to be the FEM and more likely to be the common supply to both.
The CJB is located in the right hand front footwell and the FEM is located at the left hand A pillar.
-Rod
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
SSP = Switched System Power.
Voltage with no load and then no voltage with a load indicates a high resistance somewhere in the circuit.
LSV8FAN
Active LVC Member
Everything related to the wiper motor and arm assembly mentioned in my previous post looked good.
I finally got around to remove the left side kick panel to expose the FEM. I loosened and re-tightened the one screw that holds the FEM against the car, checked that other ground connections were tight and I re-positioned the wiring and connectors leading to the FEM. Put the kick panel back and, so far, the wipers never activated again by themselves when my wife got in to drive the car. We are still monitoring the situation, but, so far so good.
I finally got around to remove the left side kick panel to expose the FEM. I loosened and re-tightened the one screw that holds the FEM against the car, checked that other ground connections were tight and I re-positioned the wiring and connectors leading to the FEM. Put the kick panel back and, so far, the wipers never activated again by themselves when my wife got in to drive the car. We are still monitoring the situation, but, so far so good.