YF-2888 R&R 2003 LS V8

ACDiecast

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Has anyone had any experience replacing the A/C liquid line that goes from the receiver/dryer and compressor to the evaporator? I am really hoping to do this without having to remove the coolant hoses on the firewall for the heater core...my worry is that disturbing the cooling system will cause a lot more issues than it is worth.

I have been through several cups of coffee trying to wiggle/gently coerce the old one out but can't seem to make much progress.

Here Is the firewall, where I managed to get the fitting off of the expansion valve and coaxed above the engine slightly.

IMG_9316.jpg


I don't think I'll be able to get it out from the bottom. Any thoughts?
 
I never tried it, but the manual does say that the heater hoses have to be disconnected.

2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

Refilling and bleeding the cooling system is not as difficult as it is made out to be. You just have to exactly follow the procedure, and have the car at least level or better yet have the front downhill from the back (opposite of most cars).
 
Thank you for the manual. I am going to try to take the wiper cowl off, and remove the HVAC occupant filter assembly to gain a little more room. I'll also post some pictures if this helps.

How much of an angle do I need to have the front lifted to best bleed the cooling system?
 
UPDATE: Finally got a little time to get back to this. Looked it up in the manual, and found that it is MUCH easier to get at by removing the wipers, wiper cowl, and HVAC pollen filter duct from the passenger side. Here is the shop manual illustration:
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Now I'm going to try and fish it out without having to disconnect the heater core hoses at the firewall. I will update with the progress *if* I can get to it soon.
 
UPDATE again: what a PITA. I ended up having to disconnect the heater core hoses at the firewall, as well as disconnecting them from the DCCV up front. This allowed me enough access to slip the high/low pressure line assembly by the exhaust headers. However...it didn’t end there. You’ll also have to disconnect the battery and remove the two rightmost connectors from the PCM, as well as the bracket that holds wire looms to the passenger strut tower. There’s also a ground strap on the firewall that needs to be removed, and a couple of barbed retainers that hold wire looms to the top of the intake plenum.

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As with most things, it’s doable but frustrating. Hopefully this helps someone at some point. Thanks again to those who have posted walkthroughs and help when they were in the middle of a project.
 

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