all you need is an inline one-way check valve somewhere in that line, find a fitting that goes into the brake booster and attach your hose to that fitting if the valve doesn't fit into the booster itself. use vacuum line to attach the valve to the booster and plenum as needed and it should work...
mark the threads where your tie rod locking nut and and the end of the tie rod on the rack before removal so you can tighten the new one down to the same threads so your alignment isn't too far off after the install. I just use one of those silver sharpies. saves a whole heck of a lot of time...
check fluid, if that doesn't alleviate it get a mainline pressure test, the only other thing I can think is maybe front pump issues not building enough pressure.
Does it smell after sitting for a few days? I know I changed spark plugs and had a comeback for fuel smell and figured I had messed with the injector o-rings while working in the area. I thought I had isolated the leak with a 5-gas analyzer sniffing for hydrocarbons when I found an increase...
I dare you to find a Factory rotor application that has "warped" from heat and not developed runout from uneven wear. It simply doesn't happen... but that is beside the point of the thread, so I digress......
In addition to my previous post I might add..... rotors do not warp it is a commonly used term when it's just flat out wrong. the only way a rotor gains runout is by uneven wear and stacked tolerances being off, or improper machining.
+1 on the warpage being turned into the rotor, it happens a lot. Anymore it's almost cheaper and better piece of mind to buy new than to have one turned. When we turn our rotors we only do it with an on vehicle lathe which eliminates the possibility of runout being machined into the rotor. After...
If it's a howl it's normally gears like someone said. check your diff fluid since it's easy just in case. also the way I learned to check wheel bearings was the method of grabbing the wheel and trying to feel any movement as previously mentioned.
That Steeda is a torsen LSD, which IMO is a much sturdier and heavy duty LSD than the trac-loc system,which I believe uses clutch plates on the outside of the side gears inside of case.
Found a 94 parts car for 700 obo what do you think if offer him 4 and haggle from there I'll link the ad in a minute. 133k mi blue color no key not sure if it runs has good body sun roof
Not a bad deal for a parts car?
https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/4368463743.html
Hey guys, I've got a good amount of parts for sale. All parts are used but assumed to be in perfect working order. If any parts have problems I've tried to point out what that I know of. I purchased these parts thinking I would use them on my Mark VIII project but plans have changed. Here is the...
Which Wide-band+software would you guys recommend. I'm interested in at least data-logging if not future tuning and want to install the sensor and wiring while I have this thing apart. Should I just spring for an ebay universal kit or is there a name brand that you guys like for our cars...
I'll get this stuff posted up in a few different markets then. Looks like I'll be doing more saving and stockpiling, which isn't too bad I guess. Thanks for the help guys! anyone wanna buy some parts!?
anyone have a blower for sale for cheap? i'm going to freshen up the tranny cooler and lines and i'm already planning oil system mods so it would be good to go haha...... only joking... or am I?
They gave me more than 1900 bucks for my Buick accident, so I have some money put aside to spend on...
The pistons in my short block have no valve reliefs, I have pictures posted in my other thread. they are only slightly dished pistons he said they were just OE replacements from the vehicle it came out of. the paperwork says it's from a 2000 F-150, not a 2006 like I previously posted I'll check...
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