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Please read the many,many over heating threads and no it's all degraded at this point. So if you only replace what's leaking get ready for multiple repairs trying to fix the additional leaks that are headed your way. JoeGR who has now left the forum has dozens of posts about this. The problem...

First things first? Do you have any codes? As posted above it needs nothing but installation so you may have additional problems you aren't aware of. . . .

Hey great troubleshooting! Yes I think you found the problems. Post back after it's fixed as I hope to hear you were successful. As posted many times that DCCV is just about a 100% failure item and sometimes multiple times! . . .

You did not check for codes so you were working blind. Glad to hear the PCM fixed it! . . .

I think you will need to let the car cool down and do some pressure testing of the coolant system. . . .

I find the LS needs to be vacuum filled as we have many threads about trapped air. So glad the shop at least did that. Consider getting one as it does work as advertised and after one use you will never do it any other way. Head gaskets are easy to check? Go to any parts store and they will...

If you don't have a shop manual I would get one now! Many on EBay so take your pick and it will be the best purchase you ever make for your LS. Lincoln LS Shop Manuals . . .

I would plan to change the fuel pump. It's old and at the end of it's life. . . .

It sure is needed so post back if you do anything. . . .

Might help to add some car info? . . .

The big red flag is your symptoms AND the previous owner "changed" the fuel pump. You need to remove the back seat and see if the guy broke the ring or other plastic parts in that area. Here is the fuel pump assembly and I have circled the plastic retaining rings that hold the pump assemblies...

I would read the link you posted again? There is nothing in the AC that will stop the engine from starting. You can drain all the refrigerant out and the car will work perfectly fine. Think about it for a minute? If what you said was true cars would be stranded all over the place! That is a...

Maybe double check that they did not come off again? When I fixed mine I had to add a clamp as apparently the tubing shrinks over time and causes these to pull off the metal nipples. Others have had to add a splice and some more tubing to connect it. Here is a great picture from a long shut...

The PATS is flashing a code. Read up on how to determine the code. Yes the PATS can and will stop the car. I would focus on determining what the PATS was telling me first. Your error code says the same thing PATS has disabled the car for some reason. Next what is the resting battery voltage...

You can still get the nice Aluminum version on EBay? Here is one for about $50. You can get them with and without the thermostat. Search for Jaguar 4.0L aluminum thermostat housing. I find a dozen or more listings. Jaguar Al. Thermostat Housing . . .

Neat project and it's an LSC! . . .

Post the codes? We need actual numbers. If you think the noise is related to something on the front of the engine you can remove the belt for a short test or if after inspection the belt might need replacement. But be aware that you WILL need to replace ALL the plastic cooling parts. There is...

It's on Amazon for about $30 each? Looks to be what you need? Note the problem solver mentioned in the description. Ball Joints I prefer Rock Auto and they also have them? Not sure where you looked but these are common and available everywhere? Rock Auto Ball Joints . . .

Start with easy stuff. Do the brake lights come on when you have trouble starting? Can you push harder on the brake pedal. I would move the brake pedal switch manually to see if that's the problem. . . .

Speedometer is driven by the ABS system. No speed sensor in the rear diff. . . .